freddy333

My final work, you are on your own beyond this -

Correction - there is a problem. After successfully pasting my photobucket link the pic appears in the editor. But when I hit the Submit button, instead of seeing the pic, I get a text link with half of it missing. Same thing happens when I manually paste the link as described in my previous post. So there appears to be something askew with our editor since I am able to post the same pic on another site. However, I was able to successfully post the same pic by uploading direct from my computer via the 'choose files' link in the lower left-hand corner of the editor.

Still wearing the old '39

If you are unable to post pics via the 'Insert other media' button, you can manually create the link by enclosing the path to your pic file within img tags like this -

Draw a line from what point to what point? & a straight line vertical, horizontal, some other angle? You will need to be more specific.

I think they look ok. Here is a gen for reference - What are you using for the black index markers & coronet?

Assuming the final print on the dial plate matches the graphic exactly (matching the colors, creating the correct 90-degree step-down into the subdials (so the subdials are physically ~1mm below the surface of the dial face) & reducing the distance between the outer edge of the minute track & dial circumference), it looks good. The trick, as always, will be to get the tiny details of the printed fonts to match the CAD image fonts. That is where just about every aftermarket dial fails. I have combined 2 of the images to make the comparison easier -

Picture not loading for me either. Check your links. I am viewing from a computer & your previous link did not work for me either. However, the new 1 you just posted IS working. Looks good so far.

Thanks for clearing that up.

I probably should not ask, but what is that stuff?

PEPETUAL

Still wearing my fav Newman

Welcome aboard. Before embarking, you have to indicate your budget. Franken Subs start around a grand & can reach several grand, depending on how many gen parts your plans call for, how critical you are & who is doing the work. I would recommend that you begin by researching the Sub model (eg, 5513) you want to build. Visit some local vintage watch sellers & try some on, use their functions & familiarize yourself with their look & feel. Also, spend time perusing gen sites to download pics of the gen model you want. 1 of the problems with vintage Rolex are the vast number of variations within a single model range, which is the thing that confounds newbies & many long-time collectors. Pick up a good Rolex Sub book. There are many available that include lots of good, clear photos that you can learn details from. It is a good idea to have a good working knowledge of your model before you do anything. That will reduce the likelihood of costly mistakes. Once you have a good idea of your goal, I would begin by sourcing a movement, dial & case, in that order, since the movement is generally the most costly & it will fit any gen spec dial/case. Keep in mind that most of the better aftermarket cases will cost a grand or more by themselves; same with the dial. & the final cost to build most frankengens tends to exceed the best pre-construction estimates. So be prepared for both sticker shock & the occasional setback (part that does not fit, movement that has unexpected problems, parts that do not match seller description, etc). Good luck.

Happy Birthday!

Except for the lume (a 50+ year old watch with brightly glowing lume is an eyebrow-raiser, at the very least), lack of beveling on the lugs & mid-case thickness (did you use s Sea-Dweller case?), very nice work.

I cannot view your link (I am not a member there), but I am sorry to hear you had so many problems. Instead of linking to other sites, you should post pics here to make it easier for RWG members to follow. People must always follow the basic rules of buying reps, especially when the name 'Rolex' is involved - buy only from sellers with an established history of selling watches to satisfied buyers & pay only with a credit card (in my experience, most banks will cancel a sale if you purchased a rep that was misrepresented) or paypal (which is funded by your credit card). Except in very rare instances (like when making a purchase from a well known or esteemed seller) or when purchasing gen parts that are in short supply, you can always find the same thing from a more reliable seller. Saving a bit or soothing your eagerness is never worth the risk of buying from dodgy sellers or those who are 'new'. Hopefully, after a bit of work, your watch can be put right without too much additional pain.

Switched Newmans & bracelets this morning

Thanks, but that is 1 of the 1st things I tried (unsuccessfully).

That looks like what I need, but unfortunately it is not installed. I will have to see if there is a version for BSD. Thank you.

No, but I will give it a try. How is it used? Can you post a sample command line for a single IP address? Also, it may be a Linux command as I do not think it is installed on our BSD server.

Thanks, but I am ahead of you. I finally got rid of them by rebooting the server and blocking them via the firewall, but I know there is a much simpler/quicker way to disconnect an IP (via tcpdrop or similar?) in real-time & without having to stop the network or reboot. Anyone?

How do I disconnect foreign IP tcp connections on a BSD UNIX server? I know there is a command (tcpdrop or something like that???) that does this, but I cannot remember what it is or how to use it? Although they do not appear to have actually logged-in or gained access, I am seeing a great deal of unusual activity on a server that generally sees very little activity. A who or w shows I am the only person logged-in, but netstat reveals 2 foreign IPs that should not be there

Thursday, still wearing the Sub