freddy333

Good point. You can also use a dial brush, which is the same thing but made to remove dust from dials.

A gen should fit a gen case/crystal perfectly (following my rule-of-thumb), but I have never worked with a Vietnam-sourced Daytona bezel, so I cannot comment about that.

Just search for 'Mr. Slimeball'.

What is the big deal about a Sub? It is just a watch

Brilliant! I am not sure how/why I missed this, but well done.

My rule-of-thumb is that you should be able to press the bezel about half way down the side of the crystal by hand only (no tools whatsoever). From there, you would need a press to secure the bezel against the case. If the bezel can be pressed down all the way or removed by hand, it is too loose & will not press the crystal against the case walls sufficiently to keep moisture out. Unfortunately, aftermarket bezels are often either slightly too large or too small. There is not much you can do if your bezel is too large other than exchanging it for another (& keeping your fingers crossed that the next 1 is better). But if the bezel is too small, you can use a dremel (or your grinding tool of choice) to remove a SLIGHT amount of material around the inside circumference to get the dimension just right. VERY IMPORTANT - remove only a little material and then TEST IT on your crystal (mounted on the case). If it is still too tight, remove a bit more material & retest. If you remove too much material, you will be in need of a new bezel. Good luck.

I have to disagree somewhat. Compressed air removes most dust/debris, but air alone will not remove oil, smudges, fingerprints or dislodge small particles that adhere to the lens due to static electricity. This crystal was cleaned with compressed air only To get the crystal really clean, I use Windex & a Viva paper towel (mostly lint-free) for an initial clean. This is followed by a good dousing of compressed air (both sides). Then, I make a close visual inspection as in the pic above. Any bits remaining on the lens must be removed manually with either a clean piece of Rodico or tweezers. Then, unless you are going to reassemble immediately (recommended), place the case/crystal under cover (an upside-down wine glass works well) until you are ready to reassemble.

I would add that neither dial looks gen to me.

I wonder why.... Thanks, but I think its older brother might have something to say about that But I am partial to folded links myself MY (refer to the original 'Going Deep' thread for details).

Thanks All. I think Connery accounts for alot of the attraction for the 'Bond' strap. While an interesting change, I think it (along with most straps on sports watches) makes the watch look more suspect, while the bracelet does just the opposite.

Correct, but I think it was done (purposely) for effect, which is too bad, because I like the pics (better if they were not quite so dark), even if I am not a big fan of the watch.

Use either an un-serrated knife or a razor blade (a paint scraper works well since it has a handle to hold the blade) & carefully wedge it in between the bezel & case. Go as far as you can without force. Then rotate the watch & go at it at another location. Keep wedging the blade in around the circumference of the bezel until it loosens & eventually you should be able to remove it. Depending on how tight the bezel is, the process can take anywhere from a few seconds to 30 minutes. Be patient, careful & keep at it & eventually it will come off.

As much as I like the 'Bond' strap, I think the 7206 makes this watch.

Still mid-day Friday in these parts & still thinking tropical

Thank you (ALL) for the thoughtful compliments. I did not do anything to the insert, only the dial (I forgot to indicate that above), hands & bezel. Dial - I smeared a very light coating of black shoe polish around the area of the center hole, being careful to avoid the gilt lettering. The shoe polish gives the dial a hint of the dial's 'original' (black) color. Hands - My usual recipe - lume treated with iodine & then hands baked in the oven (along with some scrumptious chocolate chip cookies) until the desired result is achieved. Bezel - Same as above, but without the iodine. He did not carry it until I requested it. This case is apparently his 1st 6536/1. And for anyone contemplating a similar project based on this case, I would consider, instead, using 1 of the Silix Sub cases that I used for the 6542 project. The reason is that Yuki's case, while it does have better engravings than the Silix cases, is cut a bit too large so the dial just barely fits without falling through. I have been going back & forth with Yuki over this (they maintain that their case is correct & my (27mm) dial is too small (the gen is also 27mm, so make of that what you will), but I suspect there is little they will do about it. I think I could have achieved the same thing using a Silix case at less than 1/3 the cost of the Yuki case ($650).

Thank you. I debated performing some enhanced patination on the insert, but, because it is plastic, easily broken & relatively expensive, I decided against it. p.s. Got it (will reply soon). Thank you.

Wearing something tropical to match a hot, wet Thursday evening

If, by older style, you mean rivet, there are none. Go gen (rivet), go modern (solid link) or go strap (your choice).

Me likie as-is. But, with women, who knows.

It helps.

My nearly complete tropical 6536/1 Gen 1030 calibre Gen Brevet 6mm crown/tube Gen tritium pearl Ming Quay dial Yuki case MY bezel (modded for enhanced patination)/insert & hands (modded for enhanced patination) Corvus RAF-style 'Bond' strap (may be swapped for gen 7206 (rivet) or 6241 (jubilee)

Overall, it looks very good. But, for a Yuki case, I am surprised the crown guards are so far off. I am also not too sure about the size/location of the date window. Maybe it is the camera's perspective (or mine), but the cyclops look's off-center with weak magnification. I think I would fit a gen 116 lens. Here is a gen for reference

Ending the work week still wearing Mr. Reliable