freddy333

I feel for you, but have no answer as to why some fail to reflect upon simple common courtesies.

Beautiful pics (the watch goes without saying), JoJo.

Yes. It appears to be the nature of the beast (cramming alot of megapixels onto a relatively small image sensor).

Did someone say torch? (Sorry, but I could not resist ) Actually, I do have a lume shot (forgot about this 1)

Yes, but I do not want to change the color. I debated whether to scratch it up a bit, but I decided against it since new inserts can still be had (for a price) & I think the vintagizing I did to the case, bezel & bracelet achieve the right effect. Enough so that Yuki just said 'Wow~~~ How do you make it, it look perfect. The feeling of the watch look very match and aged, miraculous.' So I think I am calling this project done (at least until Yuki's factory remakes the case with the correct dial size dimensions). PM sent.

Thanks, JoJo. The dial is from Ming Quay in Saigon (I mistakenly referenced Yuki when I posted the thread, but I just corrected/updated it). They certainly do make some good watch parts in Vietnam

Search RWG for 'watchmeister'. A couple of years ago, some senior & very knowledgeable members constructed a vinyl overlay that fits on top of the OEM ETA date disc. The fonts looked nearly exact, but some reported the printing to be a bit pixelated & others experienced short lifespans. Recently, other members have begun making overlays out of decal materials, which you can search out as well. The other option is to contact an MBW seller like Eurotimez & see if you can purchase 1 of the older MBW datewheels that came with a metalized overlay that has very gen-like fonts. No. Yes, if the MBW dial is attached to a 1570 movement. Otherwise, see above. And congratulations on your new watch.

Still wearing my Bond Sub Sunday

For those of you who have been following my long 6536 project saga, I want to let you know that Yuki has bent over backwards to correct the mistake the factory made with my case, which is apparently a 1-off design that was made for me (for those who are unfamiliar - the problem is that I purchased the case with the understanding that it was made to gen specs & would fit gen parts, but the dial retaining shelf is about .75mm larger than the 27mm dial, so there is a slight gap around the dial). After a few emails back & forth, today, Yuki admitted fault, apologized for their mistake & offered my choice of either a full refund or to return the case & they will have a dial custom made to fit the case (How is that for customer service!!!!). Of course, because the watch turned out so well, I am not terribly eager to take it apart & part with the case, especially since I have little confidence that the factory will be able to equal my present dial (which, unlike all the competition, is nearly perfect.....not to mention modded/tropical). So I am trying to work out an alternative option that will be fair to both parties. But I just have to say that for a business so many in the media (not to mention, the gen world) refer to as being rife with nothing but thieves & charlatans, my experience with Yuki (this is the 3rd purchase I have made from them) has been nothing but exemplary. And, although the same cannot be said about the quality of the case, Yuki's customer service & support has been outstanding. Highly Recommended.

To tell you the truth, I never think about battery life. I use Radio Shack Ni-MH AA rechargeables & they seem to last for at least a few hundred pics (some with flash). I have gotten used to carrying a 2nd set of batteries with me. I love the 20X zoom & image stabilizer, but I am a bit disappointed with the image quality. Specifically, the amount of chromatic aberration (colored fringing) that can appear (regardless of ISO/aperture settings) where very light areas meet very dark areas (like on a black dial with white lume dots). Because of that, I also have a Lumix LX3 en route, which is supposed to have superior image quality (my primary concern). Initially, I was going to return the SX10. But now that I have spent more time with it (& that incredible zoom), I may end up keeping it, regardless.

Thanks, it comes courtesy of my new point & shoot, which has extraordinary tele-photo capabilities

Good point. You can also use a dial brush, which is the same thing but made to remove dust from dials.

A gen should fit a gen case/crystal perfectly (following my rule-of-thumb), but I have never worked with a Vietnam-sourced Daytona bezel, so I cannot comment about that.

Just search for 'Mr. Slimeball'.

What is the big deal about a Sub? It is just a watch

Brilliant! I am not sure how/why I missed this, but well done.

My rule-of-thumb is that you should be able to press the bezel about half way down the side of the crystal by hand only (no tools whatsoever). From there, you would need a press to secure the bezel against the case. If the bezel can be pressed down all the way or removed by hand, it is too loose & will not press the crystal against the case walls sufficiently to keep moisture out. Unfortunately, aftermarket bezels are often either slightly too large or too small. There is not much you can do if your bezel is too large other than exchanging it for another (& keeping your fingers crossed that the next 1 is better). But if the bezel is too small, you can use a dremel (or your grinding tool of choice) to remove a SLIGHT amount of material around the inside circumference to get the dimension just right. VERY IMPORTANT - remove only a little material and then TEST IT on your crystal (mounted on the case). If it is still too tight, remove a bit more material & retest. If you remove too much material, you will be in need of a new bezel. Good luck.

I have to disagree somewhat. Compressed air removes most dust/debris, but air alone will not remove oil, smudges, fingerprints or dislodge small particles that adhere to the lens due to static electricity. This crystal was cleaned with compressed air only To get the crystal really clean, I use Windex & a Viva paper towel (mostly lint-free) for an initial clean. This is followed by a good dousing of compressed air (both sides). Then, I make a close visual inspection as in the pic above. Any bits remaining on the lens must be removed manually with either a clean piece of Rodico or tweezers. Then, unless you are going to reassemble immediately (recommended), place the case/crystal under cover (an upside-down wine glass works well) until you are ready to reassemble.

I would add that neither dial looks gen to me.

I wonder why.... Thanks, but I think its older brother might have something to say about that But I am partial to folded links myself MY (refer to the original 'Going Deep' thread for details).

Thanks All. I think Connery accounts for alot of the attraction for the 'Bond' strap. While an interesting change, I think it (along with most straps on sports watches) makes the watch look more suspect, while the bracelet does just the opposite.

Correct, but I think it was done (purposely) for effect, which is too bad, because I like the pics (better if they were not quite so dark), even if I am not a big fan of the watch.

Use either an un-serrated knife or a razor blade (a paint scraper works well since it has a handle to hold the blade) & carefully wedge it in between the bezel & case. Go as far as you can without force. Then rotate the watch & go at it at another location. Keep wedging the blade in around the circumference of the bezel until it loosens & eventually you should be able to remove it. Depending on how tight the bezel is, the process can take anywhere from a few seconds to 30 minutes. Be patient, careful & keep at it & eventually it will come off.

As much as I like the 'Bond' strap, I think the 7206 makes this watch.