freddy333

Most likely, the date change mechanism is gummy & requires service (cleaning/re-oiling). Ditto Ubi - Zigmeister.

Love the shot of the railroad tracks. Though it would be alot easier to see if it was smaller. The new forum format's animated image viewer sucks, but that is another story.

Excellent work, Red. The D40 was 1 of the cameras I was considering.

Looks like the start of something big.

Whoa!!!!!!!!! Still (nearly) a babe in her 80s.

Thursday

2 variations

Thanks for all of your input. It is hard to explain how the minute totalizer gearing is configured on these secs-at-9 7750s (these do not have the additional (inherently problematic) relocation gearing of the modern Daytonas), but the yellow wheel in my pic is connected to another wheel on the bottom of the movement (below the dial) that runs in tandem with it (this is the wheel the hand is connected to). I found that there is a small amount of free-play between these 2 wheels that occurs only when you remove the auto-wind bridge. Why? No idea. But I also found that if I gently lift the yellow wheel while turning it, part of the turning motion would transfer to the other wheel, while part of the turn would not. So, after I figured this out, by trial-&-error, I was able to reset the difference between the 2 wheels so that when the yellow wheel is in its proper null/reset position & the minute totalizer hand was also pointing to 12

This is why the 6542 GMT is called 'Pussy Galore'

What is the trick to repositioning the minute totalizer on an A7750 (the hand is NOT loose)? I removed the rotor & auto-wind gearing on an A7750-powered 6263, but, upon reassembly, I found the minute totalizer was resetting to -59 minutes instead of its normal null position at 12. So I unscrewed the 3 screws & removed the auto-wind bridge again to check the positioning of the minute totalizer assembly. Everything was in its correct reset position So I reinstalled the bridge, but found that the minute totalizer had moved again into this position What gives????? It may be difficult to see, but the hammer is properly contacting the heart-shaped gear on the minute counting wheel (the yellow colored wheel near 6 o'clock in the 1st pic), which is what sets the minute totalizer reset position. So it ought to reset to 12, but does not. As we all know, the subdial hands on these watches are notorious for coming loose on their tubes & then resetting in different positions. So the 1st thing I checked was the hand. Perfectly tight, no play (in any direction) whatsoever. (The hand is NOT the problem.) So, again, I removed the auto-wind bridge & checked the positions of the chrono components, but everything looks fine. Am I missing something? How did the minute totalizer hand move from its normal null reset position if everything in the chrono assembly appears to be normal & how do I get it to reset back to 12? I apologize for the less than clear pics. I am currently without a macro shooter.

Thanks, boss.

I am not a modern Milgauss fan, but it looks good. I think the dial crown & crystal coloring are the rep's most obvious give-aways. Gen for reference

I have to disagree somewhat. Condition is not, by itself, necessarily proof that a 62xx Daytona is not gen (at least, not in my book). Cause for suspicion, yes, but not the basis upon which to draw a final conclusion. I have handled a number of pristine gen vintage Daytonas. What IS a tell on virtually every rep & franken is the dial, all of which contain inaccuracies. Incorrectly shaped/located coronets, incorrect fonts, missing 'tails' on a subdial 3, lack of proper subdial depth, texture, etc. The list goes on & on & different vendors' dials contain different (sometimes overlapping) sets of (mostly inexcusable) flaws.

Apparently, a large number of older Canon p&s cameras (affected models - A60, A70, A75, A300, A310, S230, SD100, SD110, A40(*), A80(*), A85(*), A95(*), S1 IS(*), S60(*), S200(*), S330(*), S400(*), S410(*), S500(*)) were fitted with defective image sensors, which may fail prematurely. Connections inside the image sensor may become disconnected, which affects the camera's ability to display/record new images. Indications of this defect are either no image or a completely distorted image in BOTH the LCD viewer & any pics taken with the camera after the problem appears However, any known good pics previously shot/stored on your CF card (or on another CF card that you install in your camera), will display correctly/normally on the LCD viewer when the camera is switched into Playback mode. If your camera has this defect, Canon will repair it for free (including shipping to & from their repair facility), regardless of the camera's warranty status. See this link for details. Also, Photobucket is now limiting users to a max of 159MB of upload space (you need to purchase a 'Pro' account to get additional space).

In a Newman groove today

Thanks, Red. It took me awhile to reorient myself when I made the move from a film SLR to my 1st digital (a 2MP something-or-other) & I am having to reorient myself again during the switch back to a dSLR. But, like going from bicycle to motorcycle & then back to moped, I guess you never really forget how to ride 2-wheels - you just need to figure out where they moved the shifter & get used to doing some of the pedaling again. You should really check out an SX10IS. Of course, its shortcomings will dismiss it for serious use, but that 20x zoom puts this compact in a class by itself. To match that in the dSLR world, you would need a very sizable pocket full of coin & an assistant to help lug the beast around. The SX10IS produces such a creamy, soft background blur that it was almost enough to make me put up with the camera's sins (noise & chroma aberrations). Long life is not necessarily limited to pro/semi-pro. My low-end A80 lasted more than twice its expected lifespan & only got replaced when it refused to shoot anymore. But your point about the need for high ISO usability is a good 1 (for those who do alot of low light shooting).

Touche. Just goes to show you that (within commonsense limits) creativity is not limited by hardware.

I suppose you can never spend too much when it comes to your kids. But, considering the high quality of the average p&s camera today, I have to wonder if you get to a point of diminishing returns when purchasing a full frame to shoot junior's 8th birthday party? Considering the quality of film cameras that were available when I was a kid, even my recently deceased 4MP A80 was light years ahead of what my parents had available to them (& my father was quite a photo hobbyist). Still, I do not think my memories would hold any more emotion had they been archived with the best full frame available instead of a competent p&s in the hands of a loving relative. And, while on the subject of family pics, here is 1 of the 1st pics I took with my brand new Fedella minutes after I received it as a birthday gift (brother holding the Fedella box). You cannot get much better provenance than this (though if he were holding the store receipt in his other hand..........)

Intriguing? Yes. Vacuum tubes without the output transformer (Futterman's was the 1st commercially design to do that). Each amp consumes about as much current as a commercial laundry drier & produces nearly as much heat (great for those cold, winter nights, but not so much during the summer months). But if you can afford the electricity/cooling bills, they will reward with truly beautiful sound (when mated to the right speaker). Ditto.

These watches really do look better with the current (beveled) T21 rather than the rounded edge designs they originally came fitted with. It gives them a jewel-like quality. I have gen folded link 7835/357s on all of my 62xx's, but the earliest 6263s would have come with a riveted 7205/71. I just prefer the look/feel of folded links on Daytonas. Thank you (All) for the compliments.

Oops My apologies, Pug. I guess my brain reached its saturation point & lost a couple of bits during the musical-chairs parade of cameras & lenses I have been obsessing over during the past week.

With all the vintage Daytona talk lately, my head's been spinning like a box of chronographs Looking like rain today, so I am wearing my 6263

In order to verify the legitimacy of a Rolex bracelet, you should always get good, clear close-ups of the 2 inner leaves of the clasp (the parts containing the coronet, model & date stamping. Without that, you are leaving alot to chance.

There are a number of differences between Newmans & standard Daytonas, but the easiest tell are the square markers. If there are square markers in each of the subdials, then it is a Newman. If there are no squares, then it is a standard Daytona. Newman dials were offered as options in vintage Daytonas beginning with the 6239 & continuing until (but not including) the 16520. The 2 on the ends are Newmans (note the square markers in the subdials) while the 1 in the center is not

I think I am starting to get the hang of the new camera (The 4 b&w snaps are not real)