freddy333

Is that god-forsaken place (OK) in the 'midwest' (I think it is just the west)? But, whatever it is, I hope you & your sun-drenched watch make it back alive.

Like Nanuq said, (good, clear close-up) pics of the watch (from all sides, including the movement) would be very useful.

UPDATE - My camera arrived back today (10 days total round-trip time) & in perfect working order. Even though the camera is long out of warranty, Canon repaired it for 0 cost (including shipping both ways).

Just received my 6 year-old (long out of warranty) A80 back from Canon service (10 days from the day I shipped it to the day it arrived back at my door, repair cost (including shipping both ways) = 0 - Canon's customer service is truly AMAZING!!!!!!!!!) Of course, my (4MP & non-IS) p&s cannot match the succulent dof I get from its bigger (slr) brother mated to a Contax/Zeiss lens, but I still find the images it produces to be more than adequate (& often brilliant) (All hand-held in Auto/Macro mode & sharpened/re-sized only) All in all, this camera takes more pleasing pictures (much less noise/color fringing) than either the SX10IS or G10 did. Newer clearly does not always translate to better.

I agree with PP. Anytime you hear rattling (something loose) inside a watch, you should get it to your nearest watch repairer as soon as possible. And do not wind or try to set the time until the watchmaker looks at it.

Thin is in

In addition to the brand dilution, which is a serious issue (from the gen makers' point of view), there are also lost sales that directly result from potential buyers choosing a rep instead of the gen. As the quality of reps have improved (those who have been collectors for more then 10 years know what I mean), it becomes a harder sell for gen makers to justify their high prices, even if those prices are justified. Even some watch magazines have begun to pose this argument.

Wearing my chs Saturday night/Sunday morning

Many, but not all, self-destruct. Mine (2nd row from front) are nearly 5 & 4 years old, respectively, & still going strong (though neither is a daily beater)

Ending the work week wearing my

You may need to research some of the links that may have changed since the original post, but see You Can Build a Nearly Perfect 116520 Daytona

Thanks & I wish I had not eaten all of the Cracker Jacks. Now, my stomach is all wound-up.

So who has the best Sub?

Wearing the prize

Correct.

I smell fish.

Just to be clear - my 6542 project is based on the 1030, not the 1530, which uses a different set of GMT-related parts. As I have discovered, GMT conversion is not a simple process of swapping parts out (for starters, the 1030 was made with (at least) 3 different pillar plates). And, as I discovered, locating the missing GMT parts for these older movements (these parts are often not shared with other non-GMT watches of the same vintage, which leaves a very small gene pool from which to find spares) can be a frustrating experience with unavoidable dead ends & false starts. There are few shortcuts. You have to be VERY patient, aggressive & single-minded in your parts search.

What is that.........solar-powered? All joking aside, what happened to your thumb?

Depending on where you are, return shipments can take as long as 3 months. I once had to return a watch to a seller & the seller gave me the wrong address (in China). After the local (Chinese) post office said the package had been lost, it just arrived on my doorstep some 3 months later. Hopefully, your package will not take that long, but I would be patient, not request (even temporary) refund of your payment (at least not yet) & keep in (weekly) touch with the seller.

A 6538 is essentially a 6536/1 with a larger 8mm Brevet crown (which is both expensive & difficult to source). Here is my 6536/1 with standard 6mm Brevet crown & 'tropical' dial Or, if you prefer a Bond strap

Ditto Ubi.

Sticking with Mystery today