freddy333

Thanks for the link, flex. Rolex has not made or sold that insert for many years, which is 1 of the reasons they no longer service these older watches. As for Yuki's parts, the bezel looks ok, but the insert looks like MY's, which is only close. The dots are located correctly, but they are supposed to be tiny squares, not circles & there is no pearl. Edit - the insert may be ok. In researching my hard drive archives, I am seeing a good number of gen 6202s with similar inserts (& other inserts that look considerably different). But most have square dots & a thin white border around the red triangle, which Yuki's lacks An original 6202 ad with yet another variation (I have several pics of gen 6202s with this insert) Rolex

The rotor should be attached by a single screw. Make sure the screw is snug, but be careful not to over-tighten it. While you are in there, I would check to be sure the 2 screws that secure the movement into the case are snug as well. If anything is loose inside the case, those are more likely the culprits than the rotor. But anything is possible with reps.

You can get a 7750-powered 6263 with asymmetrical pushers from DW for $300. The (middle) case is very close to the dimensions of a gen 62xx Daytona & will accept many gen parts (crown/tube, pushers (usually), crystal, etc). Then, at some point in the future, if you feel the need to improve it, you (or your watchmaker) can remove the auto-wind assembly (to turn the auto-wind 7750 into a manual-wind pseudo 7760), which lowers the height of the movement enough to allow you to fit DW's (lower profile) V72 kit caseback. Depending on your will & resolve, you could even mod the case to accept a V72 (though this would also require that you swap the 7750 dial out for 1 of DW's dials made to fit the V72).

Bravo!!!!!!!!!!!

Back to my beater

As of when I posted this, Yuki did not have any 6202 bezels available separately. When available, I think his are the 1 to get.

I have always used Ghost (successfully) to clone the drives (the present 40 gig drives were the 3rd such set cloned using Ghost) in this machine. After running into this booting issue, I tried Acronis, but with the same issue. So I do not think it is the cloning utility, but I will give ping (which I have used before) a try & report back if anything changes.

From a couple of years ago

I tend to prefer the more understated appearance of sticks. To me, Romans, especially on a small watch dial, looks a bit too cluttered. But I am sure that you would be very happy with either 1. If you really want to ice the cake, have the crown & tube replaced with gen parts ($150-$200) This will both increase the usable lifespan of the watch & give it a bit of the tactile feel you only get from genuine Rolex parts. Just do not forget to post some wristies after it arrives.

ammandel - Great shots of a great watch. I took the 6536/1 out for a drive in the country today

Nicely done. Looks like you are building a fine collection of solid steel.

Yes, I think that is it (40mm diameter x 16 mm high) A gen 5517 for comparison (40mm diameter x 14mm high) Toss in an NDtrading dial (better, but not exact) & swap out the crown/tube for a gen 24-703 Triplock the crystal for Clark's Tropic 19 (if it will fit the case - someone else might be able to answer that question) the (incorrect) pearl for Ofrei.com's illumines dot the ETA 2836-2 (28.8kbph) for a slow-beat ETA 2846 (21.6kbph - the gen 1520 beats at 19.8kbph) (you will need to search the watch parts houses for this) & strap it to your wrist with Corvus's RAF-style 18mm Bond strap (I would remove the 2nd metal ring, which the original did not have) & you have a pretty nice military Sub for under a grand.

I would ditto most of Ubiquitous's comments. The 2671-2 is just a tad over 17mm in diameter, whereas the 2836 is considerably larger at 25.6mm in diameter. I think jubilee bracelets look nicer on most women, but it is up to your personal taste. I am also 1 of those who prefer all steel vs two-tone (combination of steel with yellow gold highlights) or all yellow gold (that goes for both men's & women's models). And, to answer your question about bezels (the part that fits around the crystal), fluted bezels tend to go better with jubilee bracelets & smooth bezels go better with Oyster (President) style bracelets. To reduce the likelihood of your watch being outted as a fake, I would avoid jewels, yellow gold & any features you do not absolutely need. Were it me, I would get a steel ladies Datejust with a handsome silver dial, classic stick hour markers, fluted bezel & jubilee bracelet. I seriously doubt anyone will call you out while wearing this (as long as you look like you can afford a $5k Rolex watch) This watch will look great with jeans, that little black dress, heels, flats, whatever. At worst, people might see you & think to themselves - 'Oh, I guess she could not afford a gold 1.' In other words, they will just assume the watch is genuine.

Thanks, Ronin, but I am actually back with EIDEs. Same error, same problem.

If I recall correctly, the choices in Acronis were copying by clusters (which I selected) or by files. I only tried Acronis after Ghost (which always worked before) failed to clone bootable drives.

As toomuchgear suggested, you will pretty much have to modify whatever case you get if you want to keep the costs to a reasonable simmer. Although I have not built a 5517 myself, I suspect 1 of Silix's low end reps (most cost less than $100) could be tapped for a donor case. But you will still need to mod it as toomuchgear described. On 2nd thought, I seem to recall stumbling across a 5517 rep on one of our collectors' sites that had permanently fixed springbars. Unfortunately, the rest of the watch was rubbish, but if you can locate that collector again, it might save you a few bucks & a bit of work.

The stem must be matched to the movement, not the watch. If your rep contains an ETA (Swiss or Asian), you can get a stem from any of the watch parts houses - ofrei.com, cousinsuk.com, etc.

If your watch is going to sit idle for more than a few weeks, I would give it a full wind (40 turns) once every month. That should keep the oils circulating without causing any appreciable wear. A good watch winder would be my 2nd choice since they do not cause any more wear than wearing your watch. The 1 thing I would not do is let the watch sit idle for long periods (more than 5-6 months) of time. Unless, of course, you are willing to have the watch professionally overhauled before wearing it again.

Middle 1 today (Saturday)

Here are a couple of old Daytona pics I have handy

Exactly. Everything is the same & in the same physical & logical locations. The only things that differ are the new drives' physical sizes & drive serial numbers, neither of which should cause BSD to be unable to lose the boot loader. It does not make any sense?

Thanks, Pug. But both discs are EIDE, so the drive assignments should be exactly the same. The only hitch is that the original 2 40gig EIDE drives were configured as a mirrored RAID & I cloned each of the 2 40gigers to a new 160gig EIDE drive while disconnected from the RAID card. But, again, this is the exact procedure I used when I cloned the existing 40gigers from the previous 20gigers, so it ought to have worked. Not sure why it did not? (Originally, I was switching over to SATA drives, but when I 1st ran into the booting problem, I figured it had to do with the differing drive assignments, so I returned the SATA drives & swapped them for the current 160 EIDEs to, theoretically, make things easy.)

Ending the work week wearing my Bond-ish Sub

How many shoes/handbags does your wife have?

I am not familiar with this watch, but mineral glass has a green tint to it when viewed from the side. Sapphire is either clear or white. If the lens is a sandwich composed of both materials, it should be pretty obvious. Also, you might check out the thread I posted several months ago that compared a non-AR vs an AR cyclops (done by Chief) on the GMTIIC (it was not very successful).