freddy333

Automatic watches are powered by the movements of your wrist. Alot of us modern desk jockeys are just not sufficiently active to keep a watch's mainspring fully wound. Try manually winding the watch 40 turns & then set the watch down (face up) on a table & leaving it, untouched, for about 36 hours. If the watch is still running at 36 hours, then you just need to get more exercise (with your watch). If it stops much before that, then the watch may be due for its regular (every 5-7 year) service (cleaning, oiling).

Ditto that. Well, mostly. I have never received anything but what I ordered from Silix. But I also ask alot of very specific questions like 'I want this watch because you describe it as being 12mm high. Is the watch I receive going to match your specifications & pictures EXACTLY?' As long as both buyer & seller know what to expect, you should not have a problem getting what you see on their website. On the other hand, if accuracy is your primary goal, Silix is probably not your best option. And getting either email responses or your watch from Silix can be a long, agonizing process (my last 2 orders took 3 & 2 months, respectively, to arrive, with numerous promises (of shipped watches) followed by numerous (delayed) apologies (for not shipping same)).

Congratulations, flex. I am very happy for you & expect we will be seeing lots of new pics next week.

Oh, that 1. I agree, but Honpo's watch is a 6239 (steel bezel) & the OP's watch is a 6263 (black plastic insert bezel) Even though they all get the number '4' wrong (should have a flattened top) & the number '200' is often slightly smaller than the rest of the numbers, the steel bezels seem to be of generally better quality than the plastic bezels (the steel bezels I get from DW are the same as Honpo's). I guess it is easier to engrave fonts on steel than it is to print them (correctly) on plastic.

Wearing this late Friday night/early Saturday morning

Flex - Which Jap bezel are you referring to? I only have DW's (good, but the '1 1 0' is spaced too far apart) & Yuki's (which gets the '110' right, but has less accurate printing).

Originally, after it received its enhanced patination, my entire bezel was golden brown (of varying shades & hues). But I recently did some additional sanding which wore off some of the brassy outer skin, leaving the high spots looking more silver. I will toss her in with the next couple sheets of cookies, which should finish her off nicely. For the record, though, the brass can appear anywhere on a gen bezel, depending on its history & usage. I have seen gens that are brassy only on the high spots, only on the low spots & everywhere in between. Not to mention the all-silver bezels, which is what they looked like originally.

Yes & yes. The tuxedo, as the name implies, makes for a more formal-looking watch. Not that you cannot still wear them with jeans, but they are definitely more refined than the standard DJ dial. Not to hijack your thread, but I have an '80s (gen) gold version for sale - I generally do not wear gold/tt watches (PM me if anyone is interested)

That being the case, I would agree with Dudemeister - contact Paypal asap.

Congratulations. I am not too sure about the sapphire crystal, but, otherwise, it looks like quite a find. Having a bunch of DJs myself, I think they are some of the best buys in vintage Rolex today. At some point, the rest of the world will figure that out & they will take off just like Subs & GMTs. The 'Joske's' engraving was probably added by the original retailer/seller, but Rolex did license the manufacture of a limited number of their bracelets to Mexico for some markets (mainly S. American).

No, but

This sounds like the auto-renewal for RWG membership, which I thought had been discontinued (in favor of manual renewals). Or am I mistaken?

Click me Did you relocate to HK or are you still local?

Read this

Although I have 580s on my double red, Tribal is absolutely correct.

Eeeeeek!!!!!! I have never seen that before & what a travesty (& the mineral glass lens just ices an already crummy cake). Yuki, who are also good & reliable people to deal with, is definitely the way to go for a big crown Sub. This merits repeating - Eeeeeek!!!!!!

That is an option for standard rep cases, but not for gens, Yuki/NDtrading or already drilled-out frankens. The thin 'bars just rattle around inside the lug hole, plus they do not look right.

As far as I know, the stretch bracelets were only available until the mid-60s (due to spring problems & the likelihood of the bracelet being easily yanked off the owner's wrist - a problem I have experienced myself more than once), so most Daytonas sold with rivet bracelets would have been non-stretch. At least, the combination of Daytona & stretch rivet is rare enough that I have never seen 1. But, then, that may be due more to the small number of stretch bracelets that remained serviceable over the years rather than to any conscious marketing efforts by Rolex to avoid that particular combination. If you happen to remember or locate the source of the 19mm Oyster, please let me know. In the meantime, can you post some good, clear pics of your Daytona with the bracelet? If possible, shots of all sides, includes macros of the clasp markings. I want to check around to see if someone can source them for us. Thanks Indy.

UPDATE - I just heard from DW & he says these 7206 bracelets have been available for at least 2 years. I am not sure why no one ever made an official announcement here, but better late than never. I have also been discussing the springbar issue with Yuki & they agree that the factory made a mistake, which they have agreed to correct in the next production run. The only problem is that they need to sell out of the current stock before they can make more. But, hopefully, this will eventually get resolved & we will then have an accurate 7206 available in our vintage bracelet arsenal. And maybe they will do some 19mm 7205s as well (think 62xx Daytona).

Ubi - did some of the bezel paint wear away around 110/120 on your white? Or is that just an image artifact?

Well, now you have a reason to relive your childhood. Ditto. Looking good, Carl.

Wow, someone got a deal (when no one was looking) or the bottom just fell out of the vintage Rolex market.

No special equipment is required. A 3D pic is basically just 2 separate pics of the same image, each taken an inch or 2 to the left or right of the other, & then combined into a single pic. It is a bit more complicated, but not much. Anyone with access to a digital camera, an image editor (PS, PSP, etc) & the patience to experiment (until you get the images right) can do it.

I have no idea which Tudor movement you have or its specs. Also, you need to match the movement's height & the location of the stem as it fits through the case. The Rolex 1530 used in the 5512/5513, which is what the Yuki case is made to fit, is 28.2mm x 5.75mm high.