freddy333

Official name - Rolex Daytona model 6239 with 'exotic' dial option (the red DeModell strap was fitted by me). Unofficial name used by many collectors - 'Paul Newman' Daytona. The late actor was given a 6239 with exotic dial by his wife in the '60s & he has been photographed many times over the years wearing this or other Daytonas, which is why this particular watch is call the 'Paul Newman'. There are many websites about the Paul Newman/Daytona connection that you can find via google if you want more info.

Been wearing my chs GMTIIC all day (Sunday) While driving this

Hollow bodies seem to be popular. Nice axes gentlemen.

Or do you prefer the 2nd pic cropped?

Wearing JlC Saturday

To ice the case, try Nanuq's recipe of placing said watch into a tin can filled with metal coins & shake (not too hard) until done.

Very interesting piece. Something you do not see every day. Did the watch come with any original paperwork?

Pans are not my cup of tea, but I can certainly appreciate how happy you must be. Well done.

Today, I would go with the 5513 because of its smaller presence. Tomorrow, the 1665 because of its slightly larger presence. Sunday, who knows. Both are equally great watches & whichever you choose (assuming you cannot do both), you will probably regret not having done the other (until you do).

So far, so good.

Ending the work week wearing my 6536/1 Oh & of course a wristie for the wrister (Yes, that is the 6536/1 in the picture)

50 is quite a milestone & I hope you have (at least) 50 more (good 1s).

Each has its salient points, but, for comfort, thin is in Ask any man who owns...........nah, just ask nanuq.

Most likely, the date change mechanism is gummy & requires service (cleaning/re-oiling). Ditto Ubi - Zigmeister.

Love the shot of the railroad tracks. Though it would be alot easier to see if it was smaller. The new forum format's animated image viewer sucks, but that is another story.

Excellent work, Red. The D40 was 1 of the cameras I was considering.

Looks like the start of something big.

Whoa!!!!!!!!! Still (nearly) a babe in her 80s.

Thursday

2 variations

Thanks for all of your input. It is hard to explain how the minute totalizer gearing is configured on these secs-at-9 7750s (these do not have the additional (inherently problematic) relocation gearing of the modern Daytonas), but the yellow wheel in my pic is connected to another wheel on the bottom of the movement (below the dial) that runs in tandem with it (this is the wheel the hand is connected to). I found that there is a small amount of free-play between these 2 wheels that occurs only when you remove the auto-wind bridge. Why? No idea. But I also found that if I gently lift the yellow wheel while turning it, part of the turning motion would transfer to the other wheel, while part of the turn would not. So, after I figured this out, by trial-&-error, I was able to reset the difference between the 2 wheels so that when the yellow wheel is in its proper null/reset position & the minute totalizer hand was also pointing to 12

This is why the 6542 GMT is called 'Pussy Galore'

What is the trick to repositioning the minute totalizer on an A7750 (the hand is NOT loose)? I removed the rotor & auto-wind gearing on an A7750-powered 6263, but, upon reassembly, I found the minute totalizer was resetting to -59 minutes instead of its normal null position at 12. So I unscrewed the 3 screws & removed the auto-wind bridge again to check the positioning of the minute totalizer assembly. Everything was in its correct reset position So I reinstalled the bridge, but found that the minute totalizer had moved again into this position What gives????? It may be difficult to see, but the hammer is properly contacting the heart-shaped gear on the minute counting wheel (the yellow colored wheel near 6 o'clock in the 1st pic), which is what sets the minute totalizer reset position. So it ought to reset to 12, but does not. As we all know, the subdial hands on these watches are notorious for coming loose on their tubes & then resetting in different positions. So the 1st thing I checked was the hand. Perfectly tight, no play (in any direction) whatsoever. (The hand is NOT the problem.) So, again, I removed the auto-wind bridge & checked the positions of the chrono components, but everything looks fine. Am I missing something? How did the minute totalizer hand move from its normal null reset position if everything in the chrono assembly appears to be normal & how do I get it to reset back to 12? I apologize for the less than clear pics. I am currently without a macro shooter.

Thanks, boss.