freddy333

Good point, but alot of gen owners have neither the proper knowledge nor tools to remove a caseback. So I do not think you can use lack of movement pics as a guide to a watch's legitimacy or not.

A good rule of thumb for ebay buyers - Honest sellers provide good, clear macro pics of their watch. Dishonest sellers provide excuses ('new/cheap camera', 'wife's/friend's camera', 'not a good photographer', etc) for their distant, dark or (purposely) defocused pics.

What is the best/safest non-lathe option (I do not have access to a lathe)?

Search the Rolex forum for MBW & tropic 39 or Triplock.

Ditto. Great work & a beautiful watch.

Grand Arkade rear

I use 1 of these with an appropriate UV cement (click the pic)

Ziggy or anyone - I am looking for a recommendation on the best/safest way to enlarge the inside diameter of a tube that contains splines (which can be removed after installation) The tube is fairly rare & I have only the 1, so I have to get it right the 1st time. The problem is that the crown shaft is too large to fit through the narrower, inner (splined) diameter of the tube, so I need to remove some of the interior material to fit the crown's shaft through. The 2 methods I am considering are broaching & drilling. The simplest & safest method is broaching. My thought is to install the tube into the case, after which I can broach out the splines. But I am not sure if a broach is strong enough to be able to remove the steel from the tube? My alternate idea is to, again, install the tube into the case & then use a drill to enlarge the hole. The trouble with this method is that I can picture the drill biting right into the inside walls of the tube, grabbing ahold of it & then spinning the hell out of it, thus destroying both the tube & the threading in the case. Anyone have experience with this type of procedure?

Saturday (now) Saturnight

Why are you spending so much on a tap? Every pusher (including some gens) in these was installed with the small tap in this $50 set Whether DW or standard rep cases, I have never had a problem with them.

Click me

Excepting the updated bezel insert (I prefer the original insert), it looks like the IHS version that has been around since late last summer (it appeared a few weeks after the original CHS version appeared). A very accurate rep, indeed, but by no means would I take terms like 'Full ceramic' or 'Exact Replication' or 'waterproof' literally. This is 1 of the few reps that get just about everything (except the handstack & GMT hand function) correct, but by no means not exact.

Congratulations. Your watchmaker did a nice job. I would forget a gen dial unless you are willing to spend at least the cost of another complete DW to buy it (assuming you are able to find 1). Engraving the case is a nice touch, but no one other than you or your watchmaker is likely to ever see (or appreciate) it, so I would not worry about that too much. But a gen bracelet always takes these watches up another notch, so you might consider that as your next move.

I think Rolex detuned the 4030 to 28.8 for use in the Daytona (to reduce wear), but the original Zenith calibre does beat at 36kbph.

Important interview today, so I wore something that fits comfortably under my sleeve

Oyster on dial = screw-type pushers No Oyster on dial = push-button pushers Newman dials originally appeared with the 6239, but were fitted to both Oyster & non-Oyster models This is 1 of the few rules that I have never seen the Rolex factory break.

(click the pic)

Position the pallet's tail towards the center of the movement. No. And, in fact, you should never do anything with the innards of a movement when the mainspring is carrying a charge. Always let the spring down (gently) completely when working on it. Be careful not to get the hairspring tangled in the adjacent wheel as you slip it underneath. Before tightening the cock screw, start the balance & be sure it continues to revolve (freely) as you tighten the cock screw. If the balance slows or stops, back the screw out & find out what is out of alignment before continuing. As long as the balance is revolving freely when the cock screw is secure, the balance should be fine. Congratulations on completing a 7750.

The usual

Very nice. NDTrading case/bezel? ____________ Ziggy (or anyone) - Any chance you might have a spare crown wheel (the ring, not the core) laying around for a Rolex 1030?

Yes, what they said.

Please do not quote an entire post if you are only adding a line or 2 of your own. Ditto. JoJo - Which power plant did you use? I almost went with the same dial for my 6536 project, but I decided against it because I did not like the way they printed the depth rating line.

My guess is that you either confused Josh or, for whatever reason, he did not understand what you were asking. Remember, English is not their native language. I would email him again & ask (only) 'Can you make a custom Datejust watch for me?' Or email the same question to some other collectors.

Ditto.

The 1570 (1575 adds the date feature, but the bridge is still signed '1570') is correct, but I do not believe the second hand is correct. At least, it is not correct for a 1st or 2nd gen version dial, as this is. After I missed this a few months ago, I went back & did a bit more research on the 1655. The 1st & 2nd versions of the 1655 had the squatishly odd looking coronet on the dial, but these early versions also had a second hand without a luminous dot. The luminous dot on the second hand was added for the 3rd version, which had a slightly different dial with a taller, more normal-looking coronet Here is a 1st gen 1655 (note the lack of luminous dot on the second hand & the froggish coronet) Here is a 3rd gen 1655 (note that this watch has a second hand with a luminous dot & the coronet is taller) The wheel with the rusted leaves may be a pre-owned replacement part that the previous 'watchmaker' failed to recondition prior to installation.