freddy333

Well, only cause you asked But, actually, my 116520 contains the original, 1st generation A7750 with Josh's beautiful rotor swapped in. I also fit my watch with a set of gen pushers & chrono & second hands (unfortunately, the gen minute & hour hand holes were much too large to fit the 7750's pinions). You Can Build a Nearly Perfect 116520 Daytona contains most of the construction details, along with a link to the original powdered graphite post. Anyone considering a Zenith Daytona should search out Ubi's wonderful construction articles. He is The Man for 16520 frankens (not me).

Yes, that is the way it should look. 3 cutouts in the retaining ring. You remove/install the spring by rotating it (the spring) so the 3 points of the spring align with those 3 cutouts in the ring. I am guessing that the idea behind the Asian version is that you squeeze the spring together & then monkey it out through the single cutout. I have never worked on 1 of those, so this is only conjecture.

Viewed from the side, my crystal sits about .25mm higher, with respect to the highest point of the bezel, on the crown side as compared to the opposite side. The other chs watch I saw looked to be similar. If your watch looks like this I think that is within spec. If yours has a larger deviation, can you post a pic?

It looks like the Asian version to me (based on the single cutout in the KIF stabilizing ring that Ziggy pointed out the other day), but the only way to tell for sure is to disassemble it.

That is because the steel versions have become icons & are what most people want.

A French court on Monday ordered eBay Inc. to pay Louis Vuitton and other luxury-goods brands

Now you tell me! Just this morning, after spending a good part of the weekend doing research, I bought 1 of these double watch winders (1 year warrantee)

You better stop doing that. You might have a serious accident & damage your crystal! Still wearing the 6263 Monday night Here it is next to the gen

Like most reps, the movement is surplus/unserviced & needs an overhaul. You can usually cure it by removing the auto-wind module (the top assembly containing the rotor, which is held onto the movement by 2 screws). Disassemble & clean (preferably with an ultrasonic) the plate & all the gears. Then, after they are thoroughly dry, you will need to oil the gears & pinions with Moebius 9010 & D5 (or similar) & reassemble. After that, it should work properly.

I guess my ignorance of AR application shows. I thought the AR material was brushed or sprayed onto the substrate. No?

Those GMTIIs are not the Ceramic version. I do not know if these other versions contain the same chs movement as the GMTIIC, but, if they do not, then I would assume it is only a matter of time until the chs GMTIIC IS available again.

The next obvious question has to be -- If you are coating the cyclops on the curved/outside, why go through all the effort (and risk) to remove the cyclops from the crystal?

I am sorry to hear that. Really. But, no offense to TomH, I wonder if your watch may have other issues & did TomH follow the proper procedure? Again, the powdered graphite treats ONLY the friction/drag caused by the additional secs at 6 gearing & most of these movements come from the factory in an unserviced condition, with many other potential issues that can cause the movement to fail. Since none of the dozen or so other watches that have been treated have failed, you have to consider the possibility that your watch may have other problems. At this point, I think there is more than enough evidence proving powdered graphite as an effective treatment. But, to the best of my knowledge, we still have not had a freshly overhauled movement treated by a reliable watchmaker. So you might consider contacting Ziggy to see if he would be willing to service your watch.

I used to have a 1950 (& a few other Pans), but I always thought it looked silly on my 7" wrist. So I sold them all (Pans). I still think they are cool watches, just not for me.

Oh that 1. Is someone making a rep version? If so, I would love to see some good, clear pics. I was not aware a rep was available.

Laz - it looks like you are enjoying your beautiful new toy.

I do not generally give pocketwatch-sized watches a second glance anymore, but I have to say that your Fiddy/strap combo makes for a great picture. If only they made the 1950 (gen & rep) in a more wristwatch-like 40mm size I would still own 1.......

Albino? Do you mean the brown (faded black) subdials?

Get another display case. But, as it is, that is a beautiful display. Very professional looking.

Either your camera's white balance is way off, or that is a very odd shade of green you got there.

I have been ordering from julesborel for some time without any problem. But, in this case, the aftermarket flat-top 3 DW they have listed in the catalog (& on their website) is no longer available. I just spoke with Borel & the vendor who had been supplying these DWs has gone out of business & they are now getting them from another vendor. They just received their back ordered 3035 DWs & the numbers are apparently all different from what you see in their catalog. I do not have a picture of the new DW, but the description I got over the phone makes them sound like the generic ETA datewheels, with squarish numbers. So the cubic-works overlay is probably the best option to the gen DW (which you can often find on ebay).

Ok, so there is at least 1 option. But just to beat this dead horse a bit further into the ground - Do you know if the parts that typically go south on the 2836-2's can be swapped out for the same parts from the (more reliable) 2893-2s? Put more simply -- Can you retrofit the reliable parts from an 2893-2 into the correct hand stack 2836-2? Or, can have your cake & eat it too?

Congrads on the new GMT. The bezel insert seems to be about .5mm off on most or all of these watches. It seems that the factory placed the click-stop just west of the proper null position at 12, so the triangle will generally stop just shy of that point. But it is not very noticeable & can easily be hidden by simply setting the bezel to another position, which, if nothing else, gives the impression (for anyone who knows how a GMT watch functions) that you actually use your watch for traveling between time zones. A growing number of owners of both chs & ihs versions seem to be reporting problems with the GMT function, so it is probably best not to mess with it at all. I think that anyone who gets close enough to your watch to see which hand is passing below the other will also likely be able to see each hand's vertical position on the pinion anyway.

KKS -- Nice pic of the pair & a great way to start off the week. Also, some really nice metal being showcased here today. Asymmetrical Daytona beater for me today - I just love this watch

Sorry to hear about your mishap, but you make some excellent points & I have seen similar stories (about gens) posted on TZ frequently over the years. Accidents DO happen. A very small dot of epoxy, which is available at most hardware & auto parts stores.