freddy333

True, so I suggested contacting the seller if unsure. But I have learned to offer both options as some newbies know far more than I do. You just never know.

I think the hands were just installed at the wrong place. Any watchmaker (who works on replica watches) can remove & reinstall them correctly. Or, if you know how to remove the movement from the case (remove the caseback, remove the 2 movement clamps/screws, press the stem release & remove the stem), reinstall the stem & set the hands to 12:00 (where the date is supposed to change). Then remove all of the hands from the movement & then s-l-o-w-l-y turn the crown until the date changes over. Reinstall the hands at 12:00 & reassemble. If you have never done this, I would contact the seller for instructions.

I have the 3000 & find it an invaluable diagnostic tool for making repairs. But you do not need a timing machine to regulate a watch since the watch must be fine-tuned to produce accurate time based on your particular wrist movements & lifestyle. I guess if you just want to regulate your watch, the 500 would not be overkill. But I think you would be better off if you spent the money on TZ's 2-part Watch Course. The money spent on that course will serve you far better than the money spent for an expensive piece of equipment that produces information you neither know how to interpret nor have the ability to act on. It is kind of like asking whether you should buy a Stradivarius before you know how to play a violin. Your money would be better spent on violin lessons. Of course, if cost is not an object or if you expect to get into repairing watches in the future, go with the 3000.

We must be in different GMT time zones (check your bezel position).

Excellent work & pics, Omega. You can drill holes through virgin SS using the setup described here.

Excuse the production quality & lack of major box office cast (DiCaprio would not return my calls), but this may help. Gen and rep look, feel & sound similar, at least to my eyes & ears.

Carlsbad -- No problem. The info benefits us all. My chs GMTIIC continues to please its owner While meeting COSC specs

I usually use a 140 or 160 (gray or purple band) driver, but it all depends on which movement resides inside your Rolex rep. The drivers I mentioned should fit most of the ETAs, while Asians will probably require something with a narrower tip. Rule of thumb - Always use the largest screwdriver that will fit into the slot. This reduces the chances of the screwdriver sliding out of the slot & damaging the screw head or adjoining parts.

That sounds about right to me (for now).

This ought to be required reading (followed by a test) for all members who ask stupid questions (like me).

Yup. You have a good eye. I have all of his books (for those unfamiliar, Flusser dressed the main characters in the movie 'Wall Street'). If you want to develop a personal style (as opposed to following the fashion trend du jour), begin here Ending the work week with my usual beater

It is these 'small' details that, for me, qualify the GMTIIC (even with all of its movement issues) as the 1st true 'Super Rep'.

I have to continue to cast the dissenting vote on this 1. I could do without the polished center links, but I still think the new Sub would be tits with jeans & a t-shirt. I just hope Rolex is not planning to produce it in a rainbow of colors like they do for the 'tropical' (strapped) Daytonas. That would turn the Sub line into a pure & silly fashion statement piece a la Swatch or Diesel (no offense intended to OUR Diesel, who is anything but a silly fashion statement piece ).

Rolex still makes & sells the 93150 (with the lined flip lock) for around $850 or so. And I know what you are thinking, Laz, 'Just when I thought I had everything right, another silly vintage Rolex detail throws a monkey wrench into the plan.' Been there, done that, got many Rolex t-shirts for my troubles.

Thank you for the info. Either the movement is in need of an overhaul (like most surplus/used rep movements) or the mainspring has not been fully charged. Try manually winding the crown 40 turns & then see if it keeps running while you are wearing it. Whenever you receive a new (to you) watch, you should always manually wind it 40 turns to charge the mainspring. Unless you are VERY active, normal wear may not do the trick & the watch will stop. Yes.

Seek & ye shall find. Press the levered end of the clasp in the direction of the pointer & you will feel the spring (inside the clasp).

QC? The factories cannot even get the basic rep designs right, let alone QC anything. Find me a factory that makes a true 1:1 or 'perfect' copy of a gen watch (the GMTIIC 'Super Rep' is close but far from 'perfect') & you will not need any mods. Mods are crafted by artists (like Ziggy) & craftsmen (like Avitt, Ubi & others), who put quality before profits (sometimes performing work without profit). Artists & craftsmen produce things of beauty that take your breath away, while businessman just take your money. That is not a slight against businessmen, but their goals are (& should be) different than ours.

Laz -- Great pictorial & I do not mean to be critical here, but since you are going for accuracy.......I think you have the wrong clasp for a vintage 1665. The vintage 93150 clasp does not have the 2 lines on the flip-lock piece......the clasp with 2-lines is used on later/current Sub & Seadweller models. The correct flip-lock piece should look like Takashi's 1st pic. As a backup, you may be able to file the piece down to remove the lines.

And a 'Frogeye', too. Nice. This is 1 of the last Triumphs we remanufactured & sold - before/after views But watches are alot easier & you end up with alot less crud underneath your fingernails

Bingo! That was shattering & I am not even a Pan fan. Thanks for the link, Delta.

You are probably right, but there is no way to change the existing format without corrupting the existing results. At least not without having write access to the text files that store the results data, which only the Admin & Mods have access to.

From your post-impressionist period?

I have no idea why some are being forced to select from both CHS & IHS sections, but I just added a Null option to each section. Click the Null in the section that does NOT relate to your watch if you are forced to make a 2nd selection. All Null votes will be ignored.

No, but I have owned or rebuilt most of the company's other 60s & 70s sports models, beginning with TR3.