freddy333

Either your camera's white balance is way off, or that is a very odd shade of green you got there.

I have been ordering from julesborel for some time without any problem. But, in this case, the aftermarket flat-top 3 DW they have listed in the catalog (& on their website) is no longer available. I just spoke with Borel & the vendor who had been supplying these DWs has gone out of business & they are now getting them from another vendor. They just received their back ordered 3035 DWs & the numbers are apparently all different from what you see in their catalog. I do not have a picture of the new DW, but the description I got over the phone makes them sound like the generic ETA datewheels, with squarish numbers. So the cubic-works overlay is probably the best option to the gen DW (which you can often find on ebay).

Ok, so there is at least 1 option. But just to beat this dead horse a bit further into the ground - Do you know if the parts that typically go south on the 2836-2's can be swapped out for the same parts from the (more reliable) 2893-2s? Put more simply -- Can you retrofit the reliable parts from an 2893-2 into the correct hand stack 2836-2? Or, can have your cake & eat it too?

Congrads on the new GMT. The bezel insert seems to be about .5mm off on most or all of these watches. It seems that the factory placed the click-stop just west of the proper null position at 12, so the triangle will generally stop just shy of that point. But it is not very noticeable & can easily be hidden by simply setting the bezel to another position, which, if nothing else, gives the impression (for anyone who knows how a GMT watch functions) that you actually use your watch for traveling between time zones. A growing number of owners of both chs & ihs versions seem to be reporting problems with the GMT function, so it is probably best not to mess with it at all. I think that anyone who gets close enough to your watch to see which hand is passing below the other will also likely be able to see each hand's vertical position on the pinion anyway.

KKS -- Nice pic of the pair & a great way to start off the week. Also, some really nice metal being showcased here today. Asymmetrical Daytona beater for me today - I just love this watch

Sorry to hear about your mishap, but you make some excellent points & I have seen similar stories (about gens) posted on TZ frequently over the years. Accidents DO happen. A very small dot of epoxy, which is available at most hardware & auto parts stores.

Ziggy -- Julesborel used to sell most of the 7750 parts, or is this specific part in the A7750 1 of those that differ from the ETA version? For whatever it is worth, I have been manually winding this (asymmetrical pusher) A7750 approximately weekly ever since I received it from DW last year In order to mimic the gen's manual wind movement & to reduce the movement's space requirements so I could fit the correct profile DW caseback (without the bottom of the caseback coming into contact with the pusher levers) I had to remove the rotor. However, to mirror what Ziggy said, overhauling the auto-wind module was mandatory because of the state it was in when I received the watch. The auto-wind module was dismantled, all of the components were thoroughly cleaned in the ultrasonic & then everything was lubed & reassembled according to ETA specs. The difference, before & after, is something you can easily feel when winding the watch. Those who are familiar with the Lemania/Venus will know what I mean -- manually winding an A7750 after being overhauled feels alot like that, like butter. Oh, and I am wearing her today.

Have you tried Ziggy?

I have to ask the obvious question -- Is the ETA 2893-2 an even swap for the problematic movement? Same dimensions, hand sizes, etc.?

I agree with Ziggy -- that 'KIF' setting's singular cutout is a dead give-away that this is not a standard issue ETA (unless ETA or the company that makes the KIF components has changed their design). I have a guide that illustrates the standard KIF layout (near the end) CHS = Correct Hand Stack

I would second Doc's comments & recommendations to the letter. GMT movements tend to be finicky buggers in general. You can reduce, but probably not eliminate, the chance of issues occurring by using the GMT function as little as possible (if at all -- beyond the initial test to make sure the watch works upon receipt).

The subject was originally discussed towards the end of this post. The procedure was originally outlined in this post - A possible remedy for secs at 6 7750s? The 1st watch treated (in the 'possible remedy' post) continues to run trouble-free.

The lume work coming out of Canada never ceases to amaze. Are my eyes playing tricks on me or did Ziggy also re-paint the SEA-DWELLER SUBMARINER 2000 lettering?

I think everyone has raised good points. When I read the 1st couple of posts, I was thinking 'There is already a TZ where people can go for gens, so why do we need another 1 here?' But then it occurred to me that while TZ is a great place to post & look at watches, it also has so many rules & regulations that literally squeeze it dry of alot of information that people want & need. And then it occurred to me that what TZ lacks in openness RWG offers in spades. So maybe it might be a good idea to add 1 additional forum for ALL gens. I cannot imagine that 1 additional forum would cause too much confusion, but it would give people a reliable place to ask those questions that tend to get blocked or deleted on TZ.

I think that if you plan to use your GMTIIC for daily wear, the ihs Swiss is your best bet. The Asian movements may prove reliable in time, but, based on my experience, parts & repairs may be problematic. On the other hand, if you want to feel a bit more confident around WIS types or you are just neurotic (like me), the chs Swiss is the ONLY possible option............assuming it becomes available again. Mine is about 2 weeks old, still stunning & still keeping COSC time

Spent Saturday day driving around with this On my way out to spend Saturday evening dining with this Have a good Saturday evening.

I have 2 questions -- 1. Did you remove the crystal from the case before heating it? 2. I believe the cyclops on the gen is Plexiglas (plastic), which I would expect to melt if alot of heat or flame was applied to it. So is the cyclops on the GMTIIC not plastic?

If you are going for a 'proper' wedding watch, then small, simple & elegant are the guidelines. If the selection is limited to the 2 you listed, only the Patek even comes close. But I think a Patek Calatrava, VC Patrimony, Rolex Datejust or plain 3-hand Jaeger would be much better choices. The center of attention at your wedding should be you & your bride, not the watches on your wrists. Trust me on this. Oh & congrads.

Wishing someone good health is pretty much a universal theme often tied to good fortune or anything that denotes wealth like the purchase of a new house or the birth of a child. How it got tied to watches I do not know. And English IS my 1st language & there is often no logical explanation for many of the phrases people concoct with it.

Yeah, what he said.

I thought a residence in Vegas Baby (in a tiger-friendly community) was a prerequisite for ownership? Tempting, but I think I will have to pass (no tigers around here).

Kind of old news (I posted blow-by-blow updates of some of the highlights in real time during the auction), but probably worth reposting for those who are new to the wonderful world of Rolex collecting.

Any watch movement can be repaired. But it is always easier (and cheaper) to clean & lubricate than to replace broken/worn parts. That said, most 'dead' movements just need to be cleaned & relubed. They tend to die because the oils either dried out or gummed up. Whether you should automatically service every new rep is a judgment call in my opinion. If the watch contains a POS Asian movement, I would let it run until it dies since the cost of servicing will easily exceed the value of the rep. But I think watches powered by ETAs fall into a gray area where they are definitely worth servicing, but the service costs tend to equal the value of a replacement (surplus) ETA. I think Ziggy's recommendations are probably best -- If it is an important watch that you intend to wear & rely on to keep good time, you should have a general service (clean/lube) when the watch is new so you will not end up with a dead watch or have to spend more to replace worn/damaged parts.

Anything is possible, but I think it is alot more likely that moisture entered your case through the crown/tube or thereabouts. The crystals on these watches may not be installed perfectly, but unless your crystal is significantly higher on 1 side than the other (the height difference when I view my crystal from the side is barely perceptible), I seriously doubt that is the source of the leakage. But it is always best to keep any watch that has not been recently pressure tested away from all moisture.