freddy333

I completely agree with Kenberg. In the context of an (illegal) enterprise that is populated with hoards of crooks & charlitans, Andrew is 1 of the more honorable & reliable collectors with a long-established reputation for delivering reasonable goods. Once he is able to verify the shipping problem, I am sure he will make it right. So I would give it a bit more time before assuming the worst based solely on the cryptic info you got from the post office.

It probably is not the rotor bearings that are the problem. At least, not the main problem. More likely, the entire auto-wind unit needs to be serviced (disassembled, properly cleaned, oiled & reassembled). Most of these movements leave the factory in marginal condition to begin with. It is generally a good idea to have the movement serviced as soon as you receive it. If you have never serviced a mechanical watch movement before, I would not recommend trying to learn on this 1. Send the watch to Ziggy or a local watchmaker who works on chronographs (many watchmakers do not).

Trying to blow the crystal off with pressurized air is a very bad idea. Along with the crystal, you are likely to blow the dial, hands & parts of the movement out of the watch in the process. If you are worried about damaging the gold plating on the case, try putting masking tape on the case & be very careful with the razor. If you are careful, the razor should not damage the case.

Tribal - I know what you mean. This is 1 of the reasons I decided to cut back on taking in more work. I think the idea of getting a non-refundable deposit is the only way to go. You might also require the customer to pay (in full) for any parts you need to order before you order them. I think that is fair.

The order confirmation you receive simply reflects the address you provided, but it has no relevance to what is actually written (by hand) on the shipping label. The watches are usually shipped from China & they occasionally write the address wrong. Depending on what they get wrong, the post office will either find you or return the package to the sender. The only way to verify what is actually written on the address label it is to have the shipper do a trace, which should return an image of the shipping label. If the address (on the label) differs from the address you provided, that is the shipper's fault &, in that case, I am pretty sure Andrew would re-ship at no cost. But if you have already canceled the order..............

I was going to suggest the same thing Ziggy said, but then I noticed what Avitt is talking about You should be able to remove the bezel by sliding a razor blade (I use a window scraper tool that holds a razor blade in a metal handle) around the circumference of the bezel. Sometimes, it seems like you are not getting anywhere, but if you keep at it -- working at it all the way around the case -- it should eventually come off. But you will still need to remove the 2 movement clamps.

It sounds like the shipping address was wrong, which means the postal service has no other option than to return the package to the sender. Your only option is to contact Andrew & have him either trace the package from his end or resend another 1.

Here is a gen 7928 for reference (Tudor caliber 390 movement - 18k bph) Here is another gen The rep is good, but, at $500-$600, not that good. If you can get the seller down to $250 or maybe $300, I might consider 1.

That is a beautiful watch! Much cleaner & nicer looking than the cluttered chrono version.

If you have a proper glass display case with shelves like those used to display rare plates & curio items, I think it is pretty cool to see watches displayed in their original (gen) boxes (and with all the manuals & other assorted materials they came with). Otherwise, there are hundreds of cases made for storing & displaying watches. Start with thewatchprince.com or search google. I use some inexpensive glass-topped wood cases I got from a chain store many years ago, which are nice but definitely showing their age

Just hanging around with the beater today But the owner of the 1st secs at 6 Daytona treated with powdered graphite (January 2008) just stopped by & he allowed me to model his (still running) watch for today's wristies

The crown is slightly too low & the '110' in the bezel is too widely spaced. But the glaring mistake is the 'O' in Rolex. Wrong font & a dead give-away that has fouled virtually every aftermarket Daytona dial I have seen. Correct these 3 flaws (especially the 'O') & the dial would be a winner.

Apply WD40 (penetrating oil) around the perimeter of the caseback, let it sit for a few minutes to penetrate through the screw thread grooves & then it should be removable.

Yes & no. It all depends on which flaws (every aftermarket dial has a different set of flaws) offend you the least. If you are interested, I have a new (unused) NDtrading DRSD dial for sale & I can save you some money. PM me if you are interested.

Glad to help.

Not sure if it will be the best, but I appreciate the compliment. After Ziggy does his stuff on the dial (which is already a winner in my book), I think this watch will definitely raise the bar again. And I agree with you about the NDtrading and similar dials. The quality of these aftermarket dials (none of these are repainted, they are all newly made from scratch) is evident when you compare them to the MBW dials. But, on the other hand, we often lose sight of the fact that the MBW dials will easily fool the average Rolex owner as well as 99% of the public (and that is not an exaggeration). We are MUCH more critical than anyone we might typically run into in a bar or restaurant. Even most of the sales clerks in ADs would never be able to tell an MBW dial from an NDtrading, even if they knew what to look for (this is not a recommendation to try to fool your local AD, because store managers & watchmakers usually CAN tell the difference).

You can download the ETA 7750 parts lists & component diagrams from this page. Additionally, once you locate the proper part name in the ETA documentation & log into julesborel.com, you can scroll through the entire component parts list for the 7750 & order what you need. Again, many of the parts are interchangeable between the Swiss & Asian versions of the 7750, but I have never had to replace those parts, so you may need to experiment.

He is technically on vacation until May 1.

Sorry to hear about your misfortune. Unfortunately, I do not have any 7750 parts movements laying around since graphite appeared on the scene, but julesborel.com sell most of the individual 7750 parts for the ETA version. Many of the parts are interchangeable, but I am not sure about those 3 parts. Ziggy may know or you might throw caution to the wind & just order the parts from borel & find out. I doubt such a gamble would cost you more than about $20, including ground shipping.

I posted info on this in 1 of the previous threads on this subject.

If you live in the US, you should watch this & then click the video link on this page

If you live in the US, stop reading & watch this & then click the video link on this page

Was the package still properly sealed when you received it, or did it look like it had been tampered with along the way?

Good luck.

Thank you, but the lume color looks a bit too orange to me. Kind of like a cheap bottled tan. I want the lume to look exactly like lanikai's, so I am waiting to hear back from Ziggy.