freddy333

Here is a gen 7928 for reference (Tudor caliber 390 movement - 18k bph) Here is another gen The rep is good, but, at $500-$600, not that good. If you can get the seller down to $250 or maybe $300, I might consider 1.

That is a beautiful watch! Much cleaner & nicer looking than the cluttered chrono version.

If you have a proper glass display case with shelves like those used to display rare plates & curio items, I think it is pretty cool to see watches displayed in their original (gen) boxes (and with all the manuals & other assorted materials they came with). Otherwise, there are hundreds of cases made for storing & displaying watches. Start with thewatchprince.com or search google. I use some inexpensive glass-topped wood cases I got from a chain store many years ago, which are nice but definitely showing their age

Just hanging around with the beater today But the owner of the 1st secs at 6 Daytona treated with powdered graphite (January 2008) just stopped by & he allowed me to model his (still running) watch for today's wristies

The crown is slightly too low & the '110' in the bezel is too widely spaced. But the glaring mistake is the 'O' in Rolex. Wrong font & a dead give-away that has fouled virtually every aftermarket Daytona dial I have seen. Correct these 3 flaws (especially the 'O') & the dial would be a winner.

Apply WD40 (penetrating oil) around the perimeter of the caseback, let it sit for a few minutes to penetrate through the screw thread grooves & then it should be removable.

Yes & no. It all depends on which flaws (every aftermarket dial has a different set of flaws) offend you the least. If you are interested, I have a new (unused) NDtrading DRSD dial for sale & I can save you some money. PM me if you are interested.

Glad to help.

Not sure if it will be the best, but I appreciate the compliment. After Ziggy does his stuff on the dial (which is already a winner in my book), I think this watch will definitely raise the bar again. And I agree with you about the NDtrading and similar dials. The quality of these aftermarket dials (none of these are repainted, they are all newly made from scratch) is evident when you compare them to the MBW dials. But, on the other hand, we often lose sight of the fact that the MBW dials will easily fool the average Rolex owner as well as 99% of the public (and that is not an exaggeration). We are MUCH more critical than anyone we might typically run into in a bar or restaurant. Even most of the sales clerks in ADs would never be able to tell an MBW dial from an NDtrading, even if they knew what to look for (this is not a recommendation to try to fool your local AD, because store managers & watchmakers usually CAN tell the difference).

You can download the ETA 7750 parts lists & component diagrams from this page. Additionally, once you locate the proper part name in the ETA documentation & log into julesborel.com, you can scroll through the entire component parts list for the 7750 & order what you need. Again, many of the parts are interchangeable between the Swiss & Asian versions of the 7750, but I have never had to replace those parts, so you may need to experiment.

He is technically on vacation until May 1.

Sorry to hear about your misfortune. Unfortunately, I do not have any 7750 parts movements laying around since graphite appeared on the scene, but julesborel.com sell most of the individual 7750 parts for the ETA version. Many of the parts are interchangeable, but I am not sure about those 3 parts. Ziggy may know or you might throw caution to the wind & just order the parts from borel & find out. I doubt such a gamble would cost you more than about $20, including ground shipping.

I posted info on this in 1 of the previous threads on this subject.

If you live in the US, you should watch this & then click the video link on this page

If you live in the US, stop reading & watch this & then click the video link on this page

Was the package still properly sealed when you received it, or did it look like it had been tampered with along the way?

Good luck.

Thank you, but the lume color looks a bit too orange to me. Kind of like a cheap bottled tan. I want the lume to look exactly like lanikai's, so I am waiting to hear back from Ziggy.

Actually, this is my next gen DRSD, which will be powered by a freshly serviced 1575 I have all the parts, but I am waiting to hear back from Ziggy to see if he can Ziggify the dial a bit. I could use it as is, but I have decided to go all-out on this 1. I would prefer white (or whiter) lume & I think the 6 & 9 index markers could be widened a bit. If Ziggy can make the lume on this dial match lanikai's dial, this should be my final word on the DRSD (unless I find a gen owner willing to part with his for a pittance.......& even then I am not sure it would be much of an upgrade over this).

Another watch modded by Ziggy.......yada, yada, yada. Old news & very boring, because they always looks the same -- Awesome! I hope he can bore the hell out of my DRSD dial Calling Ziggy........you are needed!

I think I saw a 16520 aftermarket case set on ioffer a couple of weeks ago. Do not quote me on this, but I think the price was $1,495 & I do not know who the seller was. It was around the time I posted in another thread about a NOS Ebel 134 (same base movement as in the 16520) on ebay with a buy it now price of $1,380 (260227295721). Amazingly, it did not sell, so the seller reposted it & it sold the 2nd time. Hopefully, it went to a good RWG home.

I would wait to get the final word from Ubi if you want accurate info.

If you look closely at the cup that contains the shock components you will see small indentations at 3 points around its circumference Use the tip of a small oiler (or, if you are very careful, the tip of your tweezers) to rotate the cloverleaf-shaped spring that holds the jewel in the cup slightly until the points of the spring align with the indentations in the cup, then you can remove the spring & lift out the jewels. Be careful when doing this because it is 1 of those procedures where the spring is likely to pop out & fly a good distance if you are not careful. Once the spring has been removed, you can use a small piece of rodico putty to lift the 2 jewels out of the cup (careful, they are held together by a drop of oil between them). Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure. I think the lever you read about refers to a KIF shock system, where the spring is levered at 1 end -- you gently compress the spring to release it from the cup & then lift the spring up (it is hinged on 1 side) & out of the way

Boy, I am sure glad I got mine before they ceased to exist

The problems relating to the secs at 6 7750 has nothing to do with whether it is Swiss or Asian-made or whether it is a 3rd or 1st gen movement. The problem relates to the lack of jeweling used for the extra gearing added to relocate the subdial functions to match the gen watches. Until/unless the factories redesign the basic movement to incorporate additional jewels for the extra gearing, it does not matter which version you use -- they all suffer from the same problem. The only known treatment is powdered graphite, which was described in this post from February.