freddy333

If it was a gen, the case would be made out of a precious metal (not steel) & it would retail at closer to $40k+ than $3k.

Just placed another order.

@ 8pm EST tonight. Check your local PBS times.

Good luck & do not forget to post pics when the project is complete (or even before then).

The most expensive watches -- both new & used -- tend to be Pateks. I do not know the most expensive watch ever sold, but there are a wide range of Patek reps sold by most of the collectors here. Browse the listings at Antiquorum.com & then search the rep collectors' listings for a match.

Parts for a 2836 are relatively commonplace, but I have never seen that part in the red circle before. Have you tried contacting the seller you got the watch from? Maybe Ziggy or someone else will recognize it.

Offshore is exactly correct. Cleaning gold plated or tree lined or whatever marketing hype the seller uses to describe his wonderful 'gold' reps is always a bit tricky because anything abrasive or corrosive (like skin oil) will eventually wear away the gold. Safest way to clean it is with a clean, dry microfiber cloth made especially for cleaning gold. You can get these online or from many hardware or home stores. If you are careful, a very light spray of Windex (glass cleaner) & a soft terry cloth or VIVA paper towel should also work.

I have never seen that watch in any Tudor or Rolex catalog, which tends to make me think it is a fantasy or 'creative' replica. But you can never say never with Rolex.

Me likie. Likie better with a steel bracelet, but that would just be icing on the cake. Have you serviced the 1570? Well done & welcome to the forum.

I am not quite sure what that part in the red circle is? It looks almost like a stem extender that has been trimmed shorter or broken off. Whatever it is, the stem needs to be matched to the movement inside your watch, so you will need to open the case & post a good, clear close-up picture of the area below the balance wheel (the round gear with a tiny 'hairspring' attached to it that revolves back & forth). (If you are unable to open the caseback, I would take the watch to any local watchmaker that works on rep watches & he can easily replace the stem or at least tell you which movement is in your watch.) There is usually a model number or brand symbol on the base plate that will give an indication of which movement it is. We should be able to give you an idea what it is & where to purchase a replacement stem once we see what movement you have. The good news is that stems are inexpensive & unless your watch is fitted with a cheap Asian movement, there are a number of watch parts suppliers that can ship them to you within a few days.

I do not know how you guys always know what you will be wearing 2 days in advance. I have enough trouble editing the current day's wardrobe (without assistance). Anyway, I will likely be lugging the old beater around with me for the rest of the workweek. Come the weekend, anything goes. p.s. Glad to see you back, Ubi.

Use the Search feature to locate the scores of threads discussing the Asian 7750 chronographs -- both standard form & the modified secs at 6 versions. If you upgrade your membership to Supporter, then you will be able to access Ziggy's area which contains the last word, technically speaking, on them. The standard Asian 7750 is a pretty reliable movement after it has been properly serviced (they rarely come from the rep factory properly serviced), but, because of their complex nature & their relatively higher cost of repairs, I would consider something else to use for your daily beater.

The crystal lift is for watches that have non-removable backs, so you remove the movement through the front of the watch case.

Try this ebay item 310026366945

here

No.

Unless you remove your watch & hand it to a stranger for close inspection, most viewing is done from this angle I think it is highly unlikely that anyone will be able to ID your watch under normal operating conditions

The dies that came with the levered press are actually quite good, so I use those (with a screw-down press) most of the time. I also got a separate set of Bergeon dies that come in handy on occasions. Pugwash's dies look pretty good, too. By the way, if you want to save some money & have a good bench or hobby vice laying around, you can use that, too. These caseback/crystal presses are really just vertical vices. If you fit the vice jaws with rubber sleeves (available at Sears & most hardware stores) & are careful, you can fit a pair of dies between them & do a very credible job of fitting casebacks & crystals. I have had to resort to this approach with a couple of thick watch cases. Works like a charm. Just be aware of the amount of pressure you are applying so you do not crush your watch.

The rehaut on the low profile rep case is nearly indistinguishable from the rehaut depth on the gen 116520. This is the other benefit to having the low profile case While the rep bezels are slightly taller, only a very select few of the most knowledgeable Daytona WIS's are likely to notice it if the more usual telltale aspects of the watch pass the gen look-alike test (no one outside of RWG has ever noticed the bezel height on any of my Daytonas).

Even the SSD is a hit-and-miss affair unless the watch has been properly pressure tested. One SSD may make it down 100ft while the next 1 may take in moisture during a humid day. And any watch with a caseback that can be removed using a balled-up wad of masking tape or 1 of those popular caseback 'balls' is an accident waiting to happen -- the temperature changes of daily life cause the metals to expand & contract enough to crack whatever seal the caseback may have had when it left the factory or seller's 'QC' lab. Even though I perform all of the maintenance on my watches & I know they are properly sealed, I always remove any rep or franken that is fitted with anything less than a recent vintage (that is, newly manufactured) gen (or Clarks, which are made very well) crystal when my wrist is going to be exposed to anything more than a mild drizzle of rain. And, even then, I do my best to keep my watch wrist dry.

Very clever & all for a good cause. Wear it well.

I agree with your 1st statement, but not your 2nd -- at least not in the case of a mechanical watch (quartz movements contain relatively few actual moving parts). Once water has gotten into the movement, it is usually too late. After it dries, it may or may not run for a bit, but, eventually, it will die unless the movement is disassembled, cleaned, lubricated & reassembled before it rusts. If you want to take your watch for a swim, shower or bath, it must be pressure-tested regularly (at least once/year) by a professional watchmaker. Just because it survived the last shower is no guarantee that it will make it through the next 1.

I agree with sssurfer. I have a few crystal presses -- both levered & screw types -- and the other problem with levered types of presses is that while they are very easy to use, the 'jaws' often do not open wide enough to fit everything you need in between them. This is a common problem when working on Daytona or Seadweller cases. These are pretty good & reasonably priced 180.606

I could not agree more with the previous 2 responses. I have taken both TZ courses & have been dabbling with mechanical watches for over 20 years. Although I have rebuilt components of the 7750, I still do not feel sufficiently skilled to perform a complete teardown & rebuild (and I know some professional watchmakers who refuse to work on them because of their complexity). I have not seen the video & there are certainly people out there with more inherent mechanical skills than I will ever have, but I think you are far more likely to end up with alot of missing, left over or broken parts than you are to end up with a working (or even nearly working) 7750. On the other hand, if you can find a cheap door stop (not working) movement and/or you are willing to risk damaging a working 1, I guess it might make for an interesting learning experience.

I think it is a bit overly optimistic to suggest that you can regulate every ETA to +/-0/day. I do not think the regulators on most of these movements are machined well enough to make the fine adjustments required to achieve that type of accuracy. And even if they were, the wearer's normal daily movements are usually enough to throw the regulation off a bit. But if the movement is functioning to spec, most ETAs should be able to be regulated to within COSC standards (+6/-4 secs/day).