freddy333

Unpacking this to wear out to dinner But the trusty beater until then Rolex steel for me.

I do not know alot about these, but Rolex service will replace whatever is currently on a gen 1665 with a 703 Triplock. I believe the main differences between the 700, 701, 702 & current model 703 are the dots (and their location) below the crown & circumference of the inner shaft which the stem screws into. The 703 has 3 dots located relatively close to the crown, while earlier versions had either no dots (just the crown) or the dots were further away from the crown (closer to the edge of the crown). I believe the current 703 also has a thicker shaft than earlier versions, which requires a larger opening in the tube as well as a different location for the splines that mate with the Rolex tube tool. I have a spec sheet that describes the differences, but I cannot locate it right now. But this may be helpful (steel/yellow gold, white gold & platinum)

I found this awhile back & then wanted to forward it to a friend but was unable to locate it. So thanks.

Yes, good luck, but watch their dials--some of them look horrible (incorrect/misaligned fonts & crowns that look like they were chiseled by a blindman). For 6 grand, the watch should be franken-perfect.

Gen 16014 (early 80s) with standard 555 end links

I must have the version number wrong then. Maybe it is a 7760, I forget. But the point, and plan, was to install the manual-wind version of the 7750 so it would allow for use of one of the shallower V72 casebacks, not a 7750 with the rotor removed (which is what I have done on mine).

Ok.

Unless I am missing something, if you have access to blank ETA 2846 datewheels, why not just print directly onto that since the (slow beat) 2846 is the optimal movement for these vintage Subs and SDs? This way, as long as the printer gets the printing right on the DW, it will be a simple swap for any owner or watchmaker. Makes alot more sense than to print onto an extra substrate that the owner (or his watchmaker) then has to hope they get straight on the DW. On second thought, even if you cannot get blank ETA datewheels, you should be able to use the pre-printed DWs since the radial finishing procedure should remove the exiting layer of paint anyway. Then you just print the new numbers onto the face of the ETA DW & you are all set to install.

Now that makes it all worth while. Nice.

DW sells the same cases for less than Phong does, but your biggest hit, by far, comes from the Valjoux 72 movement (once you are actually able to acquire one) & all the ancillary gen parts you need. Figure $1,500+ for those (plus the cost of the case) and you still have to get everything constructed into a cohesive watch. Considering the amount of work required, I can see why Phong charges what he does for a fully-assembled Daytona. I proposed the idea to DW that he consider selling the 7751-version here (the 7751 is the manual-wind version of the 7750), but he felt there would not be a sufficient number of paying customers (retail would run around $800) to make it worth his while. And my informal poll, while showing there is some interest here, did not convince him otherwise. But, I agree with you that such a watch is sadly missing from the marketplace.

If you want to buy an assembled vintage franken-Daytona (or build your own the easy (albeit expensive) way), click here. But if you just want to buy a reasonable rep, check the Watch Collector Galleries (requires Supporter status). These watches are complicated & there are alot of variations among the reps, most of which deviate from accuracy. So to avoid making a costly mistake, I would familiarize yourself with the gens in the Rolex forums on TZ or the listings on antiquorum.com before you click any Buy buttons.

An oops for me too. You are right, Alligoat. My mistake. I was thinking Twinlock, not Triplock. Mark has the correct tubes (as does Cousinsuk.com and other ebay dealers). I did get mine from Ofrei, but I cannot find them on their site, so either they do not stock them anymore or you have to inquire by phone. Sorry.

Lots of new/nice pieces (looks like you have your work cut out for you Euno). Daytona beater for me today (It looks better on her wrist than on mine) And some eye candy

Definitely NOT a good idea. If the problem is not due to the hands coming into contact with the dial (or each other), then you will need to have a watchmaker inspect the movement. That is the only way to locate the problem.

The hands are probably coming into contact with the dial. If you have a magnifying glass, you might be able to see it. An easy fix for any watchmaker (that works on reps).

I may be wrong because I only buy steel, but I think the gold Triplocks are probably going to cost a bit more -- between $50-$100 for used, and $100-$200 for new.

Triplock 703 Crown (price variable) = search ebay 'New style' 6mm generic Swiss-made tube for above ($6/ea) = ofrei If you plan to do the work yourself, you will probably want to get a Rolex crown tube tool, $35 from cas-ker & a tap for same, from same

Thanks, Ubi. Same back at you. And I know that my taste has improved immeasurably since joining RWG.

Yes, very busy. But I always LOVE to see any of those Daytona gems of yours, Ubi. Here is the main vintage Daytona lineup The 6241 has since been fitted with the same gen 7835/357 bracelet as on the other 2, but there have also been unconfirmed sightings of straps Now if Avitt will just post those luscious twins of his, I think we might just get this party started.

Arty, not sure why, but I love your watch.

After being on the waiting list for 4 years, look what the postman just delivered -- the 2008 Daytona 6239 Sorry, just kidding.

The overlays in the gens are the same, but there are at least 2 different versions of ETA movements being used in our reps & the overlays for each version of movement may be different. Or not. But I do not know for sure because I have only used the 2846 in my watches. Maybe Ziggy or someone else has the specs?