freddy333

My thoughts exactly. I am banking on that being the case. But as it is, I think its positives outrank its negatives & by a comfortable margin.

Thanks DuDro. Your pics did not display for some reason, but I am very familiar with the pics on doubleredseadweller (I use those watches as references for my mods). But I also have gigabytes of Double-Red gens archived on my hard drive & there are about a dozen or more dial variations for these. Different crowns, different fonts, different colors, different font layouts, slightly different Mercedes symbols on the hour hand, etc. So there is a bit of latitude here that I think this dial could reasonably fit into. I have matched just about everything on this dial to gens with the exception of the slightly uneven spacing of a couple of the words (look at the spacing of 'LEX' in ROLEX or the word DATE). That is really the only thing on this dial I can see that would make me question its legitimacy if I saw it in the wild (and in an otherwise gen-looking case). But I would like to get more input before I chop anyone's feet or buy another (expensive) movement.

That is what I think too. They got the crown, date window & lower 5 lines of printing almost dead-on (except for the red color, which could have been a shade darker, but still closer than the MBW). The dial background texture & color also look correct for this vintage. And unlike the NDtrading dials, the index markers at 6 & 9 are the correct width. I would have preferred a more whitish lume color, but I could live with it as is. All in all, I think this is a huge step forward. Not perfect by any means, but the 1st redial or aftermarket dial I have seen that could almost fool me or pass as gen upon close examination if I saw it in a watch that otherwise looked gen. The question now is whether to chop the feet & fit it to my 2846, or go all-out & get a 1570 ($1,200 or so) and do it up right?

$199 from here.

Took the 6241 out this morning to browse an art gallery (This is not a picture of the art gallery) Wearing the 6263 Daytona beater for the rest of the day Hope everyone had a nice weekend.

Throughout the history of the Rolex Daytona, there have been 3 major versions the original 66xx series, which contained a modified manual-wind Valjoux 72 movements with running seconds at the 9 o'clock subdial position the 165xx series, which contained modified self-winding Zenith El Primero movements with running seconds also at the 9 o'clock subdial position (which was centered along the equater of the dial) the 1652xx series, which contains the in-house automatic 4130 movement with running seconds at the 6 o'clock position (which is raised about 1mm above the equater of the dial)

Unpacking this to wear out to dinner But the trusty beater until then Rolex steel for me.

I do not know alot about these, but Rolex service will replace whatever is currently on a gen 1665 with a 703 Triplock. I believe the main differences between the 700, 701, 702 & current model 703 are the dots (and their location) below the crown & circumference of the inner shaft which the stem screws into. The 703 has 3 dots located relatively close to the crown, while earlier versions had either no dots (just the crown) or the dots were further away from the crown (closer to the edge of the crown). I believe the current 703 also has a thicker shaft than earlier versions, which requires a larger opening in the tube as well as a different location for the splines that mate with the Rolex tube tool. I have a spec sheet that describes the differences, but I cannot locate it right now. But this may be helpful (steel/yellow gold, white gold & platinum)

I found this awhile back & then wanted to forward it to a friend but was unable to locate it. So thanks.

Yes, good luck, but watch their dials--some of them look horrible (incorrect/misaligned fonts & crowns that look like they were chiseled by a blindman). For 6 grand, the watch should be franken-perfect.

Gen 16014 (early 80s) with standard 555 end links

I must have the version number wrong then. Maybe it is a 7760, I forget. But the point, and plan, was to install the manual-wind version of the 7750 so it would allow for use of one of the shallower V72 casebacks, not a 7750 with the rotor removed (which is what I have done on mine).

Ok.

Unless I am missing something, if you have access to blank ETA 2846 datewheels, why not just print directly onto that since the (slow beat) 2846 is the optimal movement for these vintage Subs and SDs? This way, as long as the printer gets the printing right on the DW, it will be a simple swap for any owner or watchmaker. Makes alot more sense than to print onto an extra substrate that the owner (or his watchmaker) then has to hope they get straight on the DW. On second thought, even if you cannot get blank ETA datewheels, you should be able to use the pre-printed DWs since the radial finishing procedure should remove the exiting layer of paint anyway. Then you just print the new numbers onto the face of the ETA DW & you are all set to install.

Now that makes it all worth while. Nice.

DW sells the same cases for less than Phong does, but your biggest hit, by far, comes from the Valjoux 72 movement (once you are actually able to acquire one) & all the ancillary gen parts you need. Figure $1,500+ for those (plus the cost of the case) and you still have to get everything constructed into a cohesive watch. Considering the amount of work required, I can see why Phong charges what he does for a fully-assembled Daytona. I proposed the idea to DW that he consider selling the 7751-version here (the 7751 is the manual-wind version of the 7750), but he felt there would not be a sufficient number of paying customers (retail would run around $800) to make it worth his while. And my informal poll, while showing there is some interest here, did not convince him otherwise. But, I agree with you that such a watch is sadly missing from the marketplace.

If you want to buy an assembled vintage franken-Daytona (or build your own the easy (albeit expensive) way), click here. But if you just want to buy a reasonable rep, check the Watch Collector Galleries (requires Supporter status). These watches are complicated & there are alot of variations among the reps, most of which deviate from accuracy. So to avoid making a costly mistake, I would familiarize yourself with the gens in the Rolex forums on TZ or the listings on antiquorum.com before you click any Buy buttons.

An oops for me too. You are right, Alligoat. My mistake. I was thinking Twinlock, not Triplock. Mark has the correct tubes (as does Cousinsuk.com and other ebay dealers). I did get mine from Ofrei, but I cannot find them on their site, so either they do not stock them anymore or you have to inquire by phone. Sorry.

Lots of new/nice pieces (looks like you have your work cut out for you Euno). Daytona beater for me today (It looks better on her wrist than on mine) And some eye candy

Definitely NOT a good idea. If the problem is not due to the hands coming into contact with the dial (or each other), then you will need to have a watchmaker inspect the movement. That is the only way to locate the problem.

The hands are probably coming into contact with the dial. If you have a magnifying glass, you might be able to see it. An easy fix for any watchmaker (that works on reps).

I may be wrong because I only buy steel, but I think the gold Triplocks are probably going to cost a bit more -- between $50-$100 for used, and $100-$200 for new.