freddy333

Look what the Fedex transplant team just delivered for my DRSD And it came packaged in a very nice carrying case (note the flat-top '3') It would be a shame to disassemble this beauty into my parts box, so I am going to replace its movement with the 2846 from the DRSD during the transplant. It should make a nice counterpoint to my 16014 _______________ I have a question about the 1570 -- When winding the 1570, should the clockwise (winding) turn make a clicking sound or a swishing sound like an ETA? p.s. I see the Admin's have had a change of heart & returned the long-lost ratings icons. Yippee!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It may already be too late (since so many pages of RWG have already been added to google & most of the other search engines), but this is why it would be a good idea for the Admins to use a robots.txt file or whatever to block indexing spiders from accessing RWG. In the meantime, members should assume that anything & everything they post here or include in their profiles is now public knowledge & could someday be used against you. I say again -- This is a ticking time-bomb just waiting to go off.

You need know only 1 thing -- Everything you know or have heard about reps is WRONG. Before you do anything, take a trip to your local AD (authorized dealer) and try on the genuine watch or watches that you are interested in. Then go to the watch company's website & download pictures of the watch you want. Use these to compare against any rep you may consider. Until you know what a gen (genuine) watch looks & feels like, you will have no way of gauging which rep's set of inaccuracies offends you the least (there is no such thing as a perfect, 1:1 or 100% accurate rep). Like Ken said, read, read & read some more. RWG is a virtual encyclopedia of accurate & reliable rep information. Learn to use the Search, because the answers to just about any question you can think of has been asked (and answered) many times before.

Harley -- Your watches are beautiful, but I think I like the stand/display even better. Do you have another picture that shows more of the display you have the watches in? And just when I thought everyone was sick of seeing Daytonas............. And a freebie of me wristing a friend's 116520 (after modding) A day without a Daytona is like a day without sunshine.

That sucks. Been through similar pickles myself. What were you doing before got laid up?

Not sure I follow all the acronyms either, but I have a feeling they do not exactly spell good news. Short of buying watches, is there anything we can do to help? Feel free to PM me.

I assume you mean smaller here It may be something other than a Triplock (like an aftermarket part). Best to post a good, clear picture of the crown side. A picture of the inside would not hurt either.

Is everything alright?

Yes & no. For this watch, I ended up having to swap out the 4 components (shown in the red circle) that compose the hour totalizer braking system (this system is what holds the hour totalizer gear still when the chrono is OFF) from another 7750, which then fixed the problem. The odd thing is that, just for a lark, I put the parts I removed from the 1st watch into the donor watch & the hour totalizer worked fine. The hour totalizer on both watches was then performing properly. So I am still not quite sure what is going on since I had removed & reinstalled those parts at least 3 dozen times (not an exaggeration) without finding a single thing wrong with any of them. And they were installed into the donor movement in exactly the same way I had repeatedly installed them in the first watch. I was hoping Ziggy might have encountered this before, but I guess not. Unfortunately, the 'creeping' hour totalizer problem occurred again, a week ago, in this watch. As the watch is currently undergoing evaluation (as detailed in the other thread), I do not want to open the watch again in order to avoid the risk of upsetting our findings regarding the current repair.

If it is sticking or stopping at the same point every time, the problem may not be related to the extra gears. The hand itself may be coming into contact with something else on the dial. Maybe 1 of the index markers or 1 of the other hands. I would check that possibility 1st. Usually, if the problem is due to the extra gearing, the watch stops at different places.

I do not own a YM, but platinum has a whiter appearance than steel. It is a slight difference & sometimes difficult to see without having the two metals (or watches) next to each other for direct comparison.

Yes, even though you cannot always make out the time on it, it is still a very cool watch. I think the strap lends it just a bit of extra legitimacy since it is so plain & unpretentious & not what you normally see on non-braceleted 'tonas (most people who replace the original strap or bracelet install something more exotic or extravagant).

Go to your local automotive parts or hardware store & buy a spray can of paint remover. Remove the caseback & place on a dry, flat surface & spray a good, thick coat of paint remover over the caseback. Wait 20 minutes (or whatever the instructions prescribe) & remove the remover & paint. If any paint remains, repeat. Really quite easy.

Me likie......alot. The Master is.

I know how you guys hate to see my Daytonas, but this one belongs to a friend who did me a big favor by letting me wear it Sunday evening (in exchange for resurrecting it from the dead, modding the CGs & installing a gen crown/tube..........some friends make you sing for your supper). So I thought you would not mind too much if I modeled it for the wristies. This was 1 of the rare times when you could actually make out the details on the dial (I really do not know how people actually use these black faced watches to tell the time -- they are bang-up hard to see under most lighting conditions.......and I have 4 eyes, so I should know) ________________ For anyone who is interested -- yes, this is the graphite test watch & to quote Sonny & Cher the beat goes on (so far for 1 week & a day........& counting).

Here is a tiny sampling of gen Subs from several gigabytes worth of Rolex images I have archived on my hard drive. Now which of these is the 'correct' one As Alligoat was trying to explain, there are so many variations on the gens themselves (due to design variations, polishing, wear, etc.) that you are trying to measure an 'ideal' that just does not exist beyond a Rolex engineer's drawing board or CAD file. More importantly, no one, not even a watchmaker is going to gauge the legitimacy of your watch by the angle of deflection from 0 degrees of your CGs. Just select a gen to use as a reference & model yours after that.

You should find a replacement screw in BERG-10227 The same parts house also sells the movement tabs, but I cannot find them on the site so you will need to inquire by phone at the number on their site.

Looks like a great start. You might find this useful (place it on top of your bench to raise the work surface up to shoulder/eye level, which is optimal for working on watches) click me

Nice, but I would see about getting a better price from them.

Please report back with your results both immediately after application & then a week or so later so we can see if this procedure actually works or if I just got lucky.

With the exception of the dial (which, although I have seen worse, looks like a poorly colored NDtrading dial), I agree with the rest of your comments.

Looks like 1 of the more successful GTGs. Thanks for the picturelog.

Balancing accounts, so steadfast & reliable is the order of the day

It is the same nice, but 100% aftermarket dial (from the same source) that was discussed here & here.

Applied as indicated, it will not migrate to any other parts and as long as the watch does not ingest any moisture, it should maintain its lubricating qualities for many years. I doubt JLC would use it in one of their most expensive watches if that were not the case.