freddy333

I feel like I have to keep saying this.........Never trust the opinion of the average gen (assuming his was not just a rep that fooled you) owner. To quote Jim Cramer, They Know Nothing!

Ubi's pictures just reminded me of something else to look for. If you compare a gen clasp to a rep (at least every rep that I have seen), the grooves that make up the rectangle sections are slightly deeper & wider on the gen. This is another of those 'fit & finish' issues.

I cannot help you with Pams (I sold mine a few years ago), but see my post here regarding the first high quality reps.

Interesting. I hope you were able to get some pictures of the actual stands with reps being sold.

The 7750 chronos are complicated & alot of watchmakers refuse to work on them for that reason alone. What kind of problem are you having?

The lume pearls that Ofrei sells (the ones without the metal surrounds) are accurate for vintage models (these usually have matte finish dials). If your modern Sub or Seadweller has metal surrounding the index markers on the dial, the lume pearl usually has metal around it also.

Take a few good, clear macro pictures of the bracelet, especially the markings on the polished sections & top/side views of the clasp & post them on the Rolex forum on TZ.

If you have both bracelets in front of you, a trained eye can tell the difference not only in the fit & finish between them, but also in the gage (thickness) of metal used (the gens are made from slightly higher gage metal) & the style & shape of the link screws. Remove a link screw from the same link on both bracelets & look closely at the screw where the threaded section ends & the un-threaded shaft begins. On the gen screws, there is a gentle slope between the threads & the shaft. On most rep & aftermarket screws, there is a definite right angle between them. Also, the threading is noticeably more precisely cut than on the reps (rep on top, gen on bottom)

Some sections of RWG require Supporter status. I just noticed that I am 1 post away from 2,000.

The factories always make at least 1 blaring (and usually inexcusable) mistake.

I think I should add an important clarification to Ziggy's response so you do not get into more trouble -- when unwinding the mainspring, DO NOT just let the crown spin free as that will likely damage the movement. The trick is to let it slowly slip/spin between your fingers. Or a safer alternative is to use a winding key (available at many watch supply houses) that replaces the stem/crown to 'let down' the mainspring. The winding key is about the size & shape of a screwdriver & makes it alot easier to maintain control of the spring as you unwind it.

2 possibilities - either the hands were loose on their pinions (the small pins the hands fit onto) or the riveting that holds the hand 'wand' onto its tube was not made correctly & the hand wands are now spinning freely on their tubes. If the hands are just loose (assuming the hole in the bottom of the hand tubes is the correct size), you should be able to gently press them back on. I would wear latex gloves or protect the hands with tissue paper so you do not get fingerprints on the hands. If the riveting between the wand & tube is the problem, you will need to either get replacement hands from your seller or try to cement them back together with some slow drying metal epoxy (available at many automotive parts or hardware stores). This type of work requires a 4x loupe and a good deal of manual dexterity to get the parts permanently cemented together without getting the cement on the wrong part, so if in doubt, just replace the hands or let a watchmaker handle the repairs.

For future reference, the safest way to remove small hands Protect the dial with a piece of plastic or paper Gently lever a pair of small screwdrivers like a 60 (white) & 80 (yellow) beneath the hand, coming in from opposite directions -- 180 degrees opposite each other, like east & west. Beginning with the flat of both blades parallel to the surface of the dial, slowly twist both screwdriver handles in opposite directions (simultaneously) against the covered dial surface so they essentially wedge themselves between the dial & lower side of the hand. Continue twisting the blades, slowly, in opposite directions & the hand will gently slide up & off its pinion. Alternatively, most of the supply houses sell hand 'levers' that make the task a bit easier This is the way watchmakers removed hands (safely) for a hundred years before modern hand removal tools were invented.

Ending the workweek with the 1 on the right No firm plans yet, but if I go out this evening, it will probably be with this

Great work, but I wonder if that dial style is correct for a 80s Datejust? It sounds like (outward) authenticity is important to you, so you might want to research dial options for the 160xx series. But, again, nice job.

Some of you must operate from a different solar system than I am in -- it is just barely past midnight (Friday a.m.) here & I know this because I am still wearing my workweek beater (Beat Brothers = Beatles)

Not terminal at all. First, try pulling the stem out to the time setting position and then press it back in. Does it work now? If not, then you just did not re-seat the stem all the way 'home'. Open the case and r&r the stem, paying attention that you are able to pull it out to set the hands & then push it back in to the winding position before you reinstall the caseback.

Maybe those functions are located in a separate compartment within the case that is open to the atmosphere. Have you emailed the seller to ask?

If your watch is a gen Rolex, then the stem fixing screw is loose & just needs to be tightened. If it is a rep containing an ETA movement, then the stem is held in by a spring-loaded lock. The stem may not have been fully seated by the factory. Once the stem is installed correctly, it should be fine. If the watch contains another movement, you would need to post a good, clear picture of the movement before anyone here can provide anything more specific.

So why are you not?

Yes, but I just changed the picture for a new 1 with Valentine colors (red).

I cannot imagine doing a trade like this with anyone other than a senior & well-known member, but if these types of transactions occur frequently, why not employ a 3rd (trusted) RWG member to act as an escrow party? The 2 trading members would pay the escrow a small fee to receive & inspect both items, which, after passing inspection, the escrow would then send on their merry ways to the intended receivers.

My Seadweller lies over 'My Bonnie', My Bonnie lies over the ocean (Beat Brothers = Beatles) And Happy Valentine's Day

After completing the refinishing of its 62510H/555 bracelet this morning, I am wearing the Mysterious 1601 (at right) today ______________ I think I am slowly being Flytimer'd by the 1601's sensuous minimalism. I am even starting to consider the economics of buying another 1570 donor watch to use for the DRSD & keeping the 1601 as is. Last night, on its maiden voyage out into public spaces (even though it was still attached to its (pre-refinished) dull & well worn bracelet), I received 2 unsolicited compliments from 2 different strangers within the space of 1 hour. That is definitely a record for me. So I am probably not alone in being captivated by this mysterious beauty's Movado-like gaze.

Ponycar literally upped his prices overnight. He posted a price list 1 day, I emailed an order the next day & I receive a response the day after that telling me I must have responded to an 'old' ad. Call it what you will, I ended up having to pay $75 for a $35 lens because I was pressed for time. Buyer beware when dealing with Ponycar.