freddy333

I was testing a watch that was producing real strange readings on my timer, so I decided to demagnetize it (which I should have done in the 1st place). For those of you who do not know what a watch demagnetizer is or how important it is to getting & keeping a watch in proper running order, I will just say that a watch demagnetizer is as important to a watchmaker as a hammer is to a carpenter. Indespensible. So I put the watch on the demagnetizer & pulled the trigger, but.........uh oh........nothing.........dead watch demagnifier (get it?.....pulled the trigger--dead demagnetizer......sorry, bad joke). So, I was about to buy a new one when I realized that I have an old Annis Han-D-Mag tape head demagnetizer that I used to use to demagnetize the heads on home/studio tape decks (remember those?). So I pulled it out of my audio gear & blew the layer of dust off. Then, while holding the Han-D-Mag upside-down (red tip pointing down), I plugged it in & slowly brought the watch (dial up) down onto the base of the Han-D-Mag I slowly rotated the watch around on the base & then slowly drew the watch an arm's length away before unplugging the Han-D-Mag. Voila, demagnetized watch! A quick retest on the timer & beat error & timing are now nearly perfect on a watch that looked to be gravely ill just minutes ago. Pretty good for a minute of work & without even having to crack open the case. Moral -- If your watch is behaving erratically or running abnormally (more than a minute/day) fast, it may very well be magnetized & a quick treatment with a demagnetizer may be all it needs. Moral 2 -- If you have a good reel-to-reel tape head (or video tape) demagnetizer (most cassette deck head demags do not produce a sufficiently strong magnetic field to do the job), you may not need to spend additional money for a watch demagnetizer.

You will have alot of trouble locating the proper tube for that crown (assuming it is a genuine vintage part), and, if you do, it will probably be very expensive. I agree with the others that a modern 703 is the way to go. This is the part that Rolex would fit to the watch during a normal service.

Sorry, but it looks like crap to me. Like everything else I have received from that seller, who is also a lier & a thief.........but I digress. Try this one instead. I have the insert on the left (with an Illumines Dot from ofrei.com) on this

Ending the week with a blue beater

Even better, the buyer posted pics of his new watch on TZ (which were immediately blasted down). Too bad, though, because for someone that does not know alot about vintage Rolexes, it is a pretty watch.

I agree with Pugwash -- get an Explorer 1 or Air King since neither has a date (the date never looks correct out of the box) or other complications. But before you do anything, I would go to your local AD & try some of the gens on to see how they look & feel. Also, research available dial colors & bracelet variations to be sure you do not end up getting a rep variation that Rolex never actually produced (if accuracy is that important to you).

What happened to the metalized datewheels for ETA 2846 Subs & Seadwellers that I thought were in production a month or so ago from the same source?

I have 2 non-MBW 1019 reps & both measure about 35mm excluding the crown. Other than by its reduced weight, non-Rolex winding feel/sound or newish condition, I seriously doubt whether anyone could ID 1 of these reps by sight since they are so plain Here is a gen for comparison I have seen at least 3 versions of this rep, each with a slightly different dial. I have a black dialed version that has the word 'Milgauss' in a smaller font, which is incorrect Also, the case used for this rep is thicker than a vintage gen Datejust -- either 160x or 160xx. At some point, my plan is to swap out the current Asian POS movement for a slow-beat 2846, install a gen Twinlock crown/tube (if I can find the correct 5mm crown, that would be an option), change the bezel's polished finish to a brushed finish (may do that tonight) & install the correct Plexi crystal.

You will need to research the specs yourself, but they are the same as the gen.

As far as I know, the only functional difference between the 2 movements is that the 1580 has 1 additional jewel. Otherwise, they are physically the exact same size & operate at 19.8bph. I do not have an MBW 1019 (I would consider getting one if you find someone selling them for a reasonable price), but I do not see why it would not fit as long as the MBW case is the same dimensions as the gen.

Before buying the pair, did you check Stan's listings? I cannot compare prices since you did not list the specific model number you are considering, but he has some clasps for sale & his stuff is top quality.

Click here or search ebay for Rolex Daytona 6263 (or 6265)..

Until reps become legally traded commodities (which I do not see happening anytime during my lifetime), I do not think it is a good idea to post anything that could be used to locate members since these pages are now publicly available. Just 2 words (for public comment) -- RIAA & Napster.

Ignore if this is obvious, but are you logging in with your email (instead of your handle)?

Beater Tuesday

I can see why your watchmaker thinks it is a rep bracelet. However, everything except the clasp looks like the real thing to me. The only part I would question is the clasp. Unfortunately, I do not have a 78360 on hand to make a direct comparison, but the pressings & engravings on the clasp do not look quite right to me. Yes, the crown on the outer clasp may have been worn down by repeated polishings. However, if that was the case, I would expect to see at least a little wear on the 2 inside polished sections as well. There is none. But, more importantly, the Rolex insignia that is pressed into your clasp looks different than any of the pressings on any of my gens. Here is a better picture of the pressed-in insignia on your clasp So either I am wrong about the clasp & the bracelet is 100% gen (likely) or yours is the 2nd bracelet I have seen where someone fit a rep clasp to an otherwise gen bracelet (less likely).

And a good, clear picture of the side of the clasp would help as well.

Always a problem with Langes. If someone ever makes an accurate Lange 1 rep, they will be swamped with orders.

Am I the only person who verifies tracking numbers as soon as I receive them? Especially, for an unknown seller & even more especially when an unknown seller demands payment by WU only.

Pretty watch, even if it is inaccurate.

Make sure the clutch lever is seated properly in the 'groove' in the clutch. Otherwise, when you pull the stem out to the winding or time-setting positions, it may not be seating properly. Also, move the stem out to the 1st position (date change setting) & be sure you are turning the date wheel in the right direction. Turned in the wrong direction can result in exactly the problem you described.

I have never tried to replace any A7750 gears with ETA parts, but I have fit a few ETA 7750 stems onto A7750s without any problem. Is the escape wheel a different size or shape on the A7750?

I think Sgt. Schultz said 'I know nothing' (& he was usually right) Jim Cramer is a loud-mouth financial 'guru', gen 116520 Daytona owner & host of cnbc's 'Mad Money' (click his pic for a bio) He frequently reminds his viewers/fans that the US Federal Reserve 'Knows Nothing' (about economics). The average gen owner IS clueless. That was exactly my point. Fooling the average gen owner is not a great feat, since all they really know about watches are the names that admit the wearer to The Club.

I would think they would if you are a Canadian shipping to the RSC in NYC or a Mexican shipping to the RSC in CA.

Maybe I am missing something here, but I wonder why Rolex will only accept watches sent in for service via USPS Registered Mail? I cannot imagine they would require owners to use USPS Registered Mail if the USPS did not honor insurance claims.