freddy333

Triplock 703 Crown (price variable) = search ebay 'New style' 6mm generic Swiss-made tube for above ($6/ea) = ofrei If you plan to do the work yourself, you will probably want to get a Rolex crown tube tool, $35 from cas-ker & a tap for same, from same

Thanks, Ubi. Same back at you. And I know that my taste has improved immeasurably since joining RWG.

Yes, very busy. But I always LOVE to see any of those Daytona gems of yours, Ubi. Here is the main vintage Daytona lineup The 6241 has since been fitted with the same gen 7835/357 bracelet as on the other 2, but there have also been unconfirmed sightings of straps Now if Avitt will just post those luscious twins of his, I think we might just get this party started.

Arty, not sure why, but I love your watch.

After being on the waiting list for 4 years, look what the postman just delivered -- the 2008 Daytona 6239 Sorry, just kidding.

The overlays in the gens are the same, but there are at least 2 different versions of ETA movements being used in our reps & the overlays for each version of movement may be different. Or not. But I do not know for sure because I have only used the 2846 in my watches. Maybe Ziggy or someone else has the specs?

A proper metal white or brushed 0.07mm (thickness) overlay for a 1665 would be welcome from anyone able to perfect them. I am sure the original crew still have the proper dimensions & illustrations, but I did a high res scan of 1 of my Watchmeister DWs before it was installed, so if anyone needs it just let me know. And you can count me in for at least 1 metal overlay DW for an ETA 2846 (in a 1665 Seadweller) if these do become a reality.

Datejust today

The only quick fix is to fully (hand) wind the watch (40 turns), if it is not already fully wound. (Self-winding watches must be fully wound by hand to prime the mainspring. After that, normal daily wear should maintain it.) Otherwise, the movement may need cleaning and/or regulation, neither of which is available as a quick fix. Try hand-winding the watch, set the time to your computer's clock and then set the watch down (face up) on a table for 24 hours (do not pick it up, move it or touch it during this time) and see how it goes. If it is more than about 15 seconds off (fast or slow) the next day, I would contact the seller for instructions.

Confused? Go to your AD, look/try on a bunch of watches & find the one (or mixture of options) that works for you. Once you know what you are looking for & are familiar with what the gen looks & feels like, you can make a more educated buying decision. Then find a collector who has what you are looking for. As far as sizes, I have not compared any of the current crop of datejusts. But, other than the obvious qualitative differences, my 20 year old datejust rep is the same size as my 20 year old gen (rep) (gen)

I have to agree. I will happily give up some speed to have those ratings back. I thought they were the coolest function in the forums (and all this extra typing must increase the load more than those ratings did).

Not my style, but a beautiful rep.

I thought it came from Florida, but Dax may have been it.

Welcome home, Ubi. Take your shoes off & stay awhile. After a day in Patekland I am off to dinner in this

What Andy used is probably ok, but its bond may break while you are reinstalling the arm, which is usually when arms tend to break anyway. A slow-drying (30-60 minute) Epoxy is probably a better way to go since it creates a steel-like bond that will not come apart again. Just be careful to do as Andy suggested and use the point of a pin (viewed through a loupe) to apply the cement, being careful to apply it only to the point of contact where the underside of the hand intersects with the hand tube. I usually set the hand in some rodico or putty of some type to steady it while I apply the epoxy. Let it sit, undisturbed, for 24 hours & you should be back in business. While you are at it, I would do the rest of the hands since they are probably loosening themselves as I write this.

Your crown tube (the small, threaded tube that screws into the case) is stripped, so the crown's threads will no longer correctly mate with it. A very common problem with reps. You have 2 choices - either see if the collector you purchased the watch from is willing to give/sell you another rep crown tube, or, better yet, buy a gen Rolex tube & crown (the rep crown will not fit onto a gen tube or vice-versa) and have a watchmaker install them. You can usually find used 7mm Triplock crowns for $20-$50 on ebay & new-style 6mm Swiss-made aftermarket tubes for $6/ea from Ofrei Note that I do not own a YM, so I cannot tell you if a gen tube will fit your case without modification, or how much modification may be required to make it fit. Someone else may have that info.

If I remember correctly, this one had a 400 or 454 CID Ford drive train. And you do not see many here either.

Sorry, I do not remember the name of the company that made the kits, if that is what you are asking. But it was an AC Cobra copy We specialized in vintage Jag & Triumph restorations, but the E-Type in the background was not one of ours. And to keep it on topic, I wore this back then

Thanks Doc. The dash looked like a Cobra kit (I have built 2 of them), but the windscreen looked it came from an old MG or Jaguar, which is what threw me. Looks like a great ride.

Doc - Great shot, but that dash looks familiar. What is it? Moderators - What happened to the little ratings icons?

Need to impress important, no-nonsense clients today, so I am going with a special no-nonsense watch -- Patek Philippe 5107 (Jack Purcell on passer-by sold separately)

That is a beauty. Is there a story that goes with it?

Universal Watch did a beautiful job on a couple of my watches (including the dials) several years ago. They are not cheap, but they do consistently good work. They specialize in restoration of old timepieces and can make any part that is no longer available.

It sounds like either the hands are loose (broken joint between hand & tube), which seems to be a pretty common problem on alot of new reps I have seen or the cannon pinion is spinning freely on the center wheel post. The second possibility is what I think Ziggy is referring to (and he is probably right). To test for either, hold the watch vertically (6 o'clock closest to floor) & set the hands to 3:15. With your finger, tap the side of the case while watching for any movement of the hands. If you see movement and you feel normal tension when you move the hands via the crown, then the hands are probably loose on their tubes. Replace the hands. But if you see movement & feel little or no tension when turning the crown, then the cannon pinion is probably loose on the center wheel post & you will need to increase the tension between the two parts. If the watch is new, I would send it back like Pugwash suggested.

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