freddy333

Sure. As long as you use the same quality rhodium as used on the gen & completely cover the underlying steel, the two should then look similar. But unless you refinish the underlying steel (before plating it), it will not reflect light the same way the gen does. Take the bracelet from a Daytona 1165xx into any AD and compare the finish of the polished center sections to the same area on the gen bracelet (it is the same for all rep watches, but I used the Daytona as an example because I am much more familiar with the issue as it relates to this particular model). You will immediately see what I am talking about. Some people have commented that my 116520 looks too chrome-like But it looks that way because I have polished the bezel (dremel with green rouge) to remove most of the surface imperfections (small pits & waviness in the metal) that exist in rep watches (this is one of the differences between the metal used to make a $250 rep & the higher quality metal & finish used for an $8,000 gen). After polishing, the bezel more closely matches the bezel on the gen watch. But it will never look exactly the same because the metals are of differing qualities (316L stainless steel (at best) for the rep & 904L, which contains less nickel, in current gens). I have yet to do the center portions of the bracelet (maybe this weekend).

No. I have found this same movement in 2 secs at 6 Daytonas. Both were the '3rd version' of this model (which has the pointed 'A' DAYTONA font & thicker case that most current secs at 6 Daytona reps come with) that I mentioned in several previous posts. The overall construction quality & feel of these movements differs from the other 2 7750s (1 of these has the 'Daytona' signed/vented rotor & the other has a plain rotor) I have found in secs at 6 Daytonas. That is, I have seen 3 different 7750 movements in secs at 6 Daytonas, so be sure of what you are getting (and read Ziggy's 7750 reviews) before you click the Buy button.

The lighting in most ADs makes watches in the store sparkle And while this type of lighting makes all watches generally more attractive & eye-catching, it will not make the generally low luster metals used on most rep watches glimmer & sparkle like the finely polished finishes found on most gen watches. And no matter of lighting can make stainless steel (used on rep watches in place of precious metal) reflect light the same way that white gold does.

What to buy is easy -- I buy what I like. I have 3 requirements for reps that I wear keeps good time fits my style of dress (classic & understated) looks/functions like the gen when viewed from this distance (about an arm's length)

Repaustria is correct. The gen datewheels may not have been laser-printer sharp (they did not have the equipment to do that type of printing in the 1970s), but they also do not look like they were printed on a 9-pin dot-matrix printer, which is how both of the Watchmeister overlays I had looked when viewed through a loupe (or cyclops). But some of the graininess may have been due to the material the overlays were printed on, which is another reason to paint/print them onto a metal substrate instead of vinyl or paper.

Asian Seiko, but most watches (that can be regulated like this) look very similar.

Work's over & on my way out to begin the weekend with this Enjoy your weekend.

I only made it part way through (not enough patience to read the entire thread with all the duplications), but I thought it was similar to the countless threads I have read on TZ when someone purchases a new watch & then asks the $64k question: 'Is my watch fake?' The responses always run along the lines in this thread. Bottom line, for me, is the poster that said the only way to know for sure is to have it appraised by Rolex or a Rolex-trained watchmaker. Short of that, the watch looks totally legit to me & I doubt the owner has anything to worry about (other than tempting fate by posting these types of questions onto a public board).

Sounds like it IS a monster truck show........

That is possible, but it is always better to be safe than sorry. Loose bits of anything floating around inside a mechanical watch can do alot of costly damage.

Having things flopping around inside a watch case is not a good thing. You should have it looked at asap.

This is the easiest way to grease your case seals (click the image) Every watch supply house (ofrei.com, cas-ker.com, cousinsuk.com, etc.) sell them. Click here to check Ofrei

By-Tor -- Actually, the page loading time seems the same (or possibly slower) & it is definitely taking hours, not minutes, for page updates from what I see here. But thanks for the explanation.

I see the reply counter is working now (at least for this thread), but the page counter remains at 0 even though at least 3 of us have viewed the thread since it was posted.

I was wondering if it might be the (delayed) effects of my New Years celebrating........

Since New Year I have noticed that the new replies & page view counters no longer seem to be updating in real time like they used to (but NEW posts do appear). Prior to the 1st, when I posted a reply or viewed a page, the index/contents page for that forum would reflect my recent view or reply immediately. Now the stats seem to jump several numbers some hours later. It looks like they are now timed to update every few hours and add all changes that occurred since the last update all at once. It may not be happening with all of the forums, but I have noticed it in some of them (Rolex, Photographs, General Discussion, etc.). It is not a browser issue since I have Opera, IE & Firefox (with cleared caches) & the same thing happens with each, and only since about the 1st.

Moving tab A away from tab B will make the watch run faster (moving A closer to B will slow it down) Note that movements of about 1/2 mm will result in big changes in the timing & it should only take a slight adjustment to counter the 3-4 minutes/day you are currently running slow. Be careful that you do not touch the hairspring or move tab B (which will throw off the movement's beat). This is not a difficult thing to adjust, but it is VERY easy to misadjust (or cause damage). If you are unsure or lack the correct materials/tools to open or seal the case, best to let a watchmaker adjust it for you. You have been warned.

Alli -- I guess you could be right. But it looked the same in one of the other pictures, so I do not think the filing marks are a photographic anomaly. Unfortunately, the auction closed so I cannot post the other picture. It is also very odd that they would have a gen watch fitted with a such an obviously poor quality aftermarket insert. But, as always, anything is possible, especially since the seller is known to be a good one (I just think he may have flubbed (unknowingly) on this one).

Not sure why sanding did not work for you. I only tried the overlay in 2 watches (test fit into a Sub, but the pixelation of the printing was too obvious through the cyclops so I only actually did a permanent install into my Seadweller, which I later removed as per above), but both went in fine after I thinned out the datewheel substrate (the problems began a day or so later). I did notice on 1 watch that the spacer ring was upside-down (the dial-to-plate clearance changed depending on which way the spacer was facing), but it was fine after I flipped it around and removed the paint from the datewheel. Still, I could never get the things to work reliably either, at least not for more than a week or so before the overlay material began to sashay around the datewheel. marsupilami -- Here is a high res scan I did of one of my overlays (I was going to try printing them on vinyl CD labels, but never got around to it)

Nice collection, but I would love to know more about the case you store them in? :thumbsup:

Friday means work, which means I have been sighted in this (click here for the whole story)

Best -- I store the most important valuables in a bank safety deposit box. Next best -- Get a heavy (read: expensive) safe and have it professionally bolted to the floor/wall joists in a basement or hall closet. Then, DO NOT tell ANYONE that you have the safe. Not even close friends or relatives. Reasonable -- Get a small safe or lockable box & keep it in the back of a bathroom or kitchen cabinet. Somewhere out of the way, but still accessible so you can get to things without having to dig up the yard or unplaster a wall. The first places a drug-crazed thief will look for valuables are your living room and bedroom. So do not store valuables there. Instead, think logically & keep the real stuff where they are least likely to search for it. I keep a small, cheap (easily carried away) safe in my bedroom closet in almost plain view. It contains one dozen, extra large eggs that I put there in the late 1980s (they ought to be just about ready by now). There is little you can do to stop professional thieves. But they will not target you unless someone tells them what you have. So remember that loose lips sink ships. If you keep the details of your valuables and security tactics to yourself, you should be fine.

Wear your lucky one.

MBWs, huh? I thought they were Martians. I guess the next attack will come in DWs (or BMWs).

No one would have believed in the first years of the 21st century that this world was being watched keenly and closely by intelligences greater than man's and yet as mortal as his own; that as men busied themselves about their various concerns they were scrutinised and studied. *** With infinite complacency men went to and fro over this globe about their little affairs, serene in their assurance of their empire over matter. *** Yet across the gulf of space, minds that are to our minds as ours are to those of the beasts that perish, intellects vast and cool and unsympathetic, regarded this earth with envious eyes, and slowly and surely drew their plans against us........ --H.G. Wells The view from the building surveillance camera The same view (starring Tom Cruise) by way of Hollywood