freddy333

Thank you. If I was going for a discolored (yellowish) look, I probably would have used tea as well. It is very difficult to get a realistic discoloration, so I decided to play it safe & stick with white. Tourbillon - You should upgrade your membership so you can upload larger photos. Or upload them to a photo hosting service like photobucket and then you can copy the URL from the hosting service into the 'Insert Image' button URL box in your posting here.

Yes and it works (and not just for Rolexes).

For anyone who has been following this thread, here is the final result of my MBW DRSD dial after a coat of the (clear, non-yellowing) Matte Finish as mentioned in my original post (I apologize for the odd camera angles, but it is difficult to photograph such small texture details, especially when viewed through a superdome lens and ambient light reflections) As you can see, it produced a nice, realistic texture to the dial without discoloring (yellowing) the white text or index markers (which I did not want to do) The look I was going for is that of some of the dials shown on doubleredseadweller.com with white or nearly white index markers And I think the result was perfect. The matte finish also tamed the slight shininess and freshly applied contours of the original MBW index markers. As they no longer screamed 'new', the need to relume them no longer seemed mandatory (though I may still dab some Night Color on them in the future to puff them up a bit.....we shall see). I also selected not to apply the finish to the hands, as Nanuq had recommended. Although I did not have any more spare dials to test various spray techniques on, I did have some extra MBW hands (I had replaced the OEM MBW hands with a set of Clark's, which are VERY nice) and I was not totally pleased with the results. From a distance, they look nice and aged (slightly corroded). But when you get close (arm's distance and with bare eyes), the hands look like they are covered with water droplets. Maybe the amber colored varnish tones the effect down a bit, but it just looked weird to me, so I decided not to do the hands even though the argument could be made that they look too new for such an old watch (though I prefer to think that they were recently replaced during the last Rolex service). The Krylon finish also has a tendency to produce a whitish appearance as successive coats are applied. And I used this side effect to produce an interesting and quite realistic-looking slight bleached effect between the markers. The effect is so subtle in fact that it is not apparent in any of the photos. But, seen live, the black portions of the dial now look uneven & somewhat blotchy, as though the dial had long-ago suffered water damage or the natural bleaching effects of long-term overexposure to the sun. Nice. The bottom line is that this is a small detail, but a very important step towards improving the appearance of a vintage dial, especially when viewed through the merciless gaze of a loupe. In its original state, the MBW dial looks more realistic from a distance (when viewed with the naked eye) than it does under close inspection (through a loupe). But, now, the converse is true. Like peeling the skins of an onion, as you peer closer and closer, there are more (realistic-looking) details to see. If you have the skills to remove the dial, it is a very easy mod to perform -- fix the dial onto a flat surface & apply 2 light passes with the spray from about 10 inches -- and the results, as others have also suggested, speak for themselves.

Mr. Ali, no matter what ebay names he uses, is not someone that I would trust. Like Nanuq (and others) said -- buy the seller, not the part.

I am a big fan of Datejusts as well and I hate to be the dissenting voice here (my intention is not to be cruel, just giving you my opinion on the Emporer's 'new clothes'), but, for such a relatively simple model, I think this rep contains too many glaring mistakes -- 'VII' at 8 and much too-large crown etching in the crystal are inexcusable. The sloppy printing of the datewheel does not help either (Rolex QC would never allow a watch to leave the factory like that). These are the types of 'inaccuracies' that I would expect to see on a 'fake' Rolex being hawked on street corners of major cities, not from RWG's collectors.

I would strongly advise AGAINST buying ANYTHING from this seller (WHOLESALEOUTLET990). They are a complete rip-off! They lie about descriptions, sell items that do not match their descriptions and then lie when answering specific questions (example: Will these end links fit standard 2mm Rolex diameter spring bars? "Yes" (correct answer is no)). Stay away!

It looks like you have the same version of the Daytona 116509 rep that I did a mini review on here back in February. Compare my rep (which, along with a Daytona 116520 rep that I purchased 3 years ago, continues to run & keep good time) to the gen 116509

Avitt -- When you're right, you're right (and on both counts): 1. I do not want to part with the Fly (in fact, I have a V23 that I will be using to relaunch the Fly soon). 2. I have an Enicar, which has donated its V72 for my other Newman project (6241).

The donor watch contained a similar ring, but it had 3 cutouts for the stem and pushers to fit through. One of the first things I tried all those weeks ago was to fit this ring into the DW case, but, unfortunately, it did not fit (too large).

I tried something similar to that using some of the case tabs. Instead of installing them so they fit into the slots that run along the inside surface of the case, I bent them to create springs so they would press against the caseback. Unfortunately, the stiffer (thicker) tabs caused the caseback not to fit and the less stiff (thinner) tabs just bent flat when I put the caseback on. I think coil-style springs would either bend or be to tall to fit the caseback. But I appreciate the idea just the same.

Yes, I think that was the problem I had when I tried to fit the retainer ring from the original donor case into the DW case. It was hitting something and the movement stopped running.

I think the original (Flytimer) donor watch used a retainer ring along with case clamps, but the ring does not fit the DW case. Unfortunately, I took the movement out of the donor case without first taking photos, so I am not exactly sure how it was installed. If you have pictures, that would be helpful. I am pretty desperate at this point since I have tried every standard method I can think of..

I thought of doing that, but I don't really want to modify or cut into the case back on this watch.

Zig -- The problem is that that is exactly what I have been working at for the past couple of months, but I am not getting anywhere. Any chance I could contract this task (of stabilizing the movement in the case) to you? I realize that you may not fare any better than I have, but I have run out of ideas and I am now just chasing my tail and running around in circles. I think the only hope is a fresh perspective. Can you PM me?

Sorry, I do not understand your question? I am not looking to chance anything.......I am just looking for a solution.

I am looking for alternative methods for locking the V72 movement into my DW Daytona case (the circled areas are the case locking screw holes) After spending weeks trying everything I can think of, including cutting/bending/modifying literally scores of 'assorted case locking tabs' & trying to manufacture case locking tabs from Campbell's soup tin lids, I have finally given up. Either the locking screws keep the caseback from closing (and I have tried several different screws), or the locking tabs do not hold the movement tight enough to keep it from flopping around in the case, or something.. So I am wondering if anyone has run into this problem before and what you did that worked. I cannot tell you how frustrating it is to have my Newman 6239 sitting here running perfectly, but unable to be worn because the only thing holding the movement in the case is the winding stem. Winding it, setting the time or just normal wrist movements cause the movement to 'knock around' inside the case, which is not a good thing I am getting desperate and wondering if I might be able to get away with either squeezing a few dabs of silicone sealant (designed to seal automotive windshields (this is the stuff that comes out of a tube and dries like a gray colored rubber)) at a few points around the movement, between the movement and the inside of the case?? Of course, the silicone dabs would have to be placed at locations so that it does not interfere with any of the movement's moving parts. Another thought was to wedge a few toothpicks in between the movement and inside of the case at the same locations, and break them off leaving only the tips. I think that would probably work, but I am worried that if any of them came loose they might end up lodging themselves in the movement...not a pretty thought. Any thoughts or recommendations? Ziggy??? Anyone???

Is it the amber tinting of the dial that suggests the watch has an authentic patina, or is it the 'matte' texture? I would like to add an authentic-looking patina, but I would like to maintain the whiteness of the dial's text and markers. Although it is somewhat less typical, I have seen a number of vintage Subs and Seadwellers on TZ with white (or very nearly white) dial markings, and I am wondering if adding the texture of Nanuq's dial without the yellowing will look real or not? Ordinarily, I would just do some testing on old dials, but, unfortunately, I killed all of my scrap dials during my previous re-luming testing and they were all tossed into the bin. I am kind of thinking that the can of 'Matte Finish' I have now (shown above) will probably do the trick, but I really do not want to have to buy another MBW DRSD if I am wrong.. Any thoughts?

Predfan -- Nice work, but for this watch I want to keep the markers as close to white as possible. I have a number of pictures of gen DRSDs and Subs from TZ that still have white markers. I know they tend to be rarer, but that is the look I am after. But I do like the appearance of the black part of Nanaq's dial.

Nanuq -- That is what I was afraid of. But I thought people were using a spray can of varnish as opposed to an air gun, at least I think that is what was recommended in one of the tutorials I read (but cannot find now). No? Also, I would like to replicate the texture of your dial, but I want to keep the markers and text white. Will an amber colored varnish also yellow or darken the markers and dial text? If so, maybe I should try the spray I have now? Any thoughts???

I want to vintagize my MBW DRSD dial using the spray varnish process other members have used successfully, so I went to my local art supply store and asked for a can of 'matte finish' spray varnish. But as I was just about to begin spraying the dial, I noticed that the can does not say 'varnish' anywhere on it...it just says 'Matte Finish' as you can see here This may be a stupid question, but before I kill my dial or make a return trip to the store...can anyone tell me if this looks like the right stuff (matte varnish), or is this a can of something different--like clear matte paint or something like that? Did the store in fact sell me the right stuff, even though the word 'varnish' does not appear anywhere on the label? I always thought that the only difference between 'varnish' and 'paint' is that varnish has a slightly caramel (yellowish-brown) tint. If so, since the can says 'Non-yellowing' does that mean it is not 'varnish'?

Nanuq's photo is very telling. With one exception (Clarks), the 2 aftermarket Superdomes I have both suffer from this telltale ring of distortion, which makes images viewed through them somewhat distorted and a bit foggy. The Clarks lens does have a small bit of distortion, but the ring is much wider and affects the circumference/edge of the lens (as opposed to the much more important center) and is much less noticeable if held up in the same position as the lens in Nanuq's photo. The salient feature of Clarks lens and the thing that puts it head and shoulders above all of its (aftermarket) competition is its clarity, which is on par with the gen. The following picture (originally taken to compare dials) demonstrates the difference in clarity between an aftermarket lens (on left) and Clark's (on right). Compare the diffused, doubled image of the lamp reflected in the aftermarket lens on the left (I think this was from Helfands, but I am not positive) and compare the image in the Clark's lens on the right Because the dials are different, it is not a completely fair comparison, but I can tell you that images viewed through a Clark's (or gen) Superdome are crystal clear in contrast to the same image viewed through the slightly foggier and hazier filter of most aftermarket Superdomes.

As you can see from Nanuq's comparison photos, the differences between the 2 Superdomes (the gen and brand X) are minimal, and the differences between the gen & Clark's are even closer. I have both Clarks and the gen and, believe me, the differences are almost imperceptible and relate only to a slightly increased diffraction of straight lines (when viewed closely & directly) as they cross the circumference of the lens. The increased diffraction appears to be due to a flattening of the inside face of the lens, which is more rounded on the gen. But, again, this deviation is minor & only noticeable at direct & close range. Otherwise, when viewed from any other angle (and to any casual viewer of a watch fitted with Clark's Superdome) the lens looks like the gen. Another issue to consider in favor of Clark's is that these gen T39s are now getting on in age (they have not been manufactured in several years), so their stability and water resistance may be questionable. There have been numerous postings on TZ suggesting that owners not swim with a watch fitted with a gen Superdome. On the other hand, in addition to being less expensive ($60 for a small bit of plastic is not exactly what I would call cheap), Clark's lenses are newly manufactured and seem to be quite well made. I would have no qualms about swimming with a watch (properly) fitted with a Clark's T39 that has been recently tested for water tightness (this is one of the reasons my gen T39 is sitting in a parts box instead of sitting on my DRSD).

First, make sure the crystal does not contain any hairline cracks or fissures. Remove the crystal from the case, clean it well and hold it up to light to see if you see anything. Then, if it looks ok, reinstall the crystal with a new gasket (if applicable for your watch) and use silicone watch sealant on both the gasket and around the bottom edge of the crystal. Also, be sure to apply a light coating to the entire caseback gasket and the gaskets in the crown tube. Depending on the maker of your sub, there can be between 1 and 4 gaskets in and around the crown & crown tube. If the caseback gasket was damaged (you said the original one was in 2 pieces), then it is very possible that the crown tube gaskets are also damaged or lacking silicone sealant. And although some believe it is ok to close the case with one of those 'balls' or a wad of tape, I do not believe these methods provide a reliable seal. You should purchase a Rolex caseback wrench. You can find cheap ones for as little as $40 or so (I have an extra one (mint condition) that I would be willing to sell for $25 plus shipping costs--PM me if you are interested). This is one of the wisest investments you can make if you plan to be opening your cases in the future.

Here is a comparison of Clark's T39 Superdome with Helfands and 1 other vendor's dome (sorry, the other vendor's name escapes me?) I have Clark's T39 Superdome in this I think the Superdome being sold on TZ is overpriced, especially since Clark lens gives you 98% of the appearance of the gen. I have seen new gen Superdomes go for between $150-$200 on ebay. If you are patient, you can find them there. If not, $250 will get you a 'mint' (which is not the same as new) one today.

Hard to tell exactly what you have there without clear, macro photos, but what I can make out looks nice. It should make a great looking Datejust someday. I am sure that Tribal will take very good care of it.