freddy333

I think you may need to upgrade your membership in order to access some of the premium features. But here is the relevant section of Ziggy's review: Why did they not oil the movement? Remember I said that the movement was not oiled? Why would someone make such a nice movement, and not oil it except for the balance cap jewels? What does oil do in the pivots and jewels? Sure it reduces wear by allowing the pivot to rotate on a film of oil and not touch the jewel. It also adds a small amount of friction to the pivots - a very small amount mind you - but friction is increased when you oil a watch. A dry pivot on a jewel will require less power to turn than one with a film of oil between the pivot and the jewel, at least in the initial stages of the usage of the watch. It is possible to over-oil a movement, so much so that it doesnt run at all what is my point with all this? Have you figured out yet why they did not oil the movement? Take a movement, add 11 extra gears, causing the movement to be on the verge of not working, and to make it all work, reduce the friction in the movement to the least amount you can. How ? by not oiling any of the pivots make sense doesnt it, it does to me this is pure speculation on my part, but the only reason I can come up with.

Just replaced the camera batteries, so I thought I would shoot some new pics of the top drawer of my collection

Read Ziggy's review of the secs at 6 7750 here and decide for yourself.

Actually, it is the other way around. The most likely reason, according to Ziggy (this has been my experience as well), that the secs at 6 7750 is shipped 'dry' is because the lubricants would add additional friction/drag to an already overtaxed engine causing it to stop. Those, like yours & mine, that continue to run do so more because of luck & variability in machining than anything else. My guess is that the less it is used, the longer it will run.

No problemo, V. I keep my dewlap in a pickle jar (along with my pet intestinal worm, Dirkson) for women like you who appreciate a man with fine luggage I keep it in the fridge, on the shelf just below my favorite salad dressing

I know what you mean, Archibald. Attended my first NYC watch auction in 1982 & have carried the calibre monkey on my back ever since.

Very nice VC, Stephane. I have been toying with the idea of getting one of these myself for ages. In the end, not quite my style, but a nice looking watch if you can pull it off.

Thanks for posting the story of your experience. I always get a kick out of hearing these anecdotes. But remember that survey after survey has shown (and my experience has consistently been) that Rolex owners know little or nothing about watches, in general, and even less about Rolex watches........at least beyond the one on their arm (and many owners are oblivious of everything but the brand name anyway). Most of these people have more money than sense and have about as much passion for mechanical watches as the average, hourly-waged clerk in a chain jewelry store has (none). While you & I are spending our time reading/writing & learning as much as we can about watches, most Rolex owners are busy making money and have little time to spend learning the tricks of the watchcollecting trade. Most reps will fool most gen owners and gen owners are notorious for identifying gens as reps. So, as a rule, the average Rolex owner is not a very good gauge of the quality of a rep. However, you know you have something truly unique when you get a thumbs-up from most of the people here or on TZ (note -- I do NOT recommend posting pics of rep watches on TZ!).

Western Union is a serious inconvenience (they always make me jump through hoops, but always authorize the transfer in the end), but some sellers prefer it (which takes the gamble out of their end of the transaction & places it in your hands).

I do not know. I only have Audemars and Patek deployments.

You are one lucky sod, Euno, and exactly right about those gems stemming from Rolex's inconsistency. James Dowling posted a rather interesting comment on TZ this morning about the unreliability of Rolex specifications when discussing model variations. It was in response to the question (cross-posted elsewhere here) about the existence of a Pt Datejust.

Rolex movement parts do not generally fit on an ETA. You will need to find an aftermarket datewheel overlay (I think cubic-works.com has some, but I do not know if they have the correct one for your movement or watch) or an ETA datewheel with the correct font for your ETA model calibre.

There have been a few similar posts on TZ over the years.

They usually have sizing holes (like a standard strap) in the material through which you slip the tong. The problem I often have is trying to remember how to fold the clasp & where to slide the strap through? But, like me, you will figure it out when you see the strap. It takes longer to explain than to do.

Only when testing or repairing a watch. Otherwise, I have finally learned to ignore the second hand when setting the time.

Based on my 3 purchases from Ali, I would not be surprised if the numbers on the insert are off-center or rub off or have the wrong font, etc. What would surprise me is if he actually delivered a good, quality part that matched his description of that part.

Sporting time today (Gotta fix those ghastly 3/6/9 index markers)

I agree......or disagree, depending on the point of view. Either way, I prefer to see a woman wearing a smaller, more delicate watch. You can call me old fashioned, but you cannot call me trendy.

Mrs. Peel, you're needed.

Actually, that was the only scene I liked from that movie. The rest was a cartoon. Slightly better than the Roger Moore rubbish, but it fell far short of Connery's worst 60's & early 70's efforts (excusing his Never Say Never Again mistake). While I think Craig's a great actor, the rest of this flick made me pine for George Lazenby.

Me likie Datejust with scratched gen dial. Look real. Look good. Look like gift for Chief.

Was most of that year spent tracking down the parts? I would love to see some clear full-frontal photos of your project. All of the vintage Daytonas I have come across had low profile cases with pointed tips at each end. Your case looks different than mine. Did you grind down the pointed tips at the end of the lugs on your case? I agree with you about the pusher & crown holes in the case being wrong, but the rep factories ALWAYS get at least 1 detail wrong on everything they produce. Literally. And I think some of them do this on purpose. Although I have not done anything to mine, I have a couple of ideas on how to improve or fix the holes -- One way would be to weld some additional metal over the pusher & crown holes and then file/sand/buff/redrill/retap them to the correct size/shape. Another thought was to fill the holes with gray-colored epoxy and then file/sand/buff/redrill/retap. Either option would require some additional work (and risk), but, if all goes well, you would end up with a more accurate looking case. While I wish the case were made better, most people (unless you plan to sell or have your watch appraised by a Rolex specialist) will not notice it. At least, that has been my experience with this project watch & in the years I have been wearing Newman reps. My old Lemania/Venus-based 6241 is more than a few years old and, even with all of its obvious flaws, it has never been called out (but the flaws are so obvious that it would have only been a matter of time & I was always conscious of this whenever I wore it) (This is the strap that will ultimately be paired with the DW 6241 Newman above) On the other hand, the flaws on my new 6241 project watch (and its 6239 brother) are relatively hidden by the crown & pushers. But I do not plan to sell or have the watch appraised (or closely inspected) by any truly knowledgeable Rolex people. Also, I have seen 1 gen Newman on TZ that had similarly larger pusher holes in the case (I think it may have belonged to one of the Rolex Moderators, but it was a long time ago). I suspect that it was either a Rolex service replacement or yet another example of Rolex's habit of mixing up parts between model versions, as has been well documented in the case of vintage Subs & Seadwellers, especially for the Comex watches. So I would not let the holes bother you too much.

Corgi -- I can see your point, but I am sure glad I got here before you did.

Thank you for the compliments, Bertieng. Is the picture in your message your project watch? You are correct about the pushers and the cut of DW's cases. In fact, I can tell you horror stories, but do not get me started. Instead, read this. It will be very helpful & should answer alot of your questions. DW's cases vary in a number of parameters. My first Newman project, a 6239, was a nightmare, while this one was a relative walk in the park. I posted a number of messages in the Rolex forum about the process, which you should be able to find via the Search.

Thanks, Euno. I thought you would appreciate it. After all, it was your input that convinced me stick with the lizard strap for the 6241. But I really need to keep the watch on the bracelet until I get the 6239 done (still dealing with the movement/case locking tab issues). I tend to prefer bracelets over straps and that way I would keep the 6241 (on strap) for more formal events and use the 6239 (on bracelet) for less formal and daytime wear.