freddy333

I am having some trouble fitting my v72 movement into the DW 6239 case. There is a pin that sticks out the side of the pillar plate, between the stem and the lower pusher that is causing the problem Anyone run into this before? Also, should the DW hands be a tight fit onto the v72's pinions? I might be able to press them on with some force, but it would definitely take more force than I am used to having to apply to attach a hand. Has anyone had a problem fitting DW's hands? _________ UPDATE: I just compared the Flytimer's original chrono hands to the set I received from DW, and the holes in the original hands are definitely larger, as you can see in this photo The other hands (hour, minute, chrono seconds) are similarly too small. So, unless broached (and, unfortunately, I do not have the proper broach), I do not see how the DW hands can possibly fit a v72 movement. What have others done for hands when building a DW?

Alligoat -- The He valve in my DRSD came from the same watch, but I got mine from either Josh or Andrew (the same case has been around for a few years). There are actually a few different Subs and Seadwellers that use that same case. Unfortunately, the only thing I found useful is the He valve. The rest of the case has too many problems (does not easily accept gen parts, difficult/impossible to remove bezel/insert without damage, etc.) to be useful for serious modding.

This may be helpful

There are too many variations (some very subtle) to be able to explain them all here. But, in many cases, the main problem is the width and shape of the bottom of the CG (where it slopes into the case). If you look at the crowns on a gen & rep of the same model side by side, you will usually see that the lower half of the rep's crown is covered by the lower curve of the CG. On the gen watch, either there is a tiny bit of space between the crown and the edge of the CG or the CG covers less of the crown.

1665fan -- Actually, the MBW cases do have the crease, but it is not as pronounced (deep). I think you have two choices - buy a gen case or modify an MBW (or another case). No rep part is going to be exactly (100%) the same as the gen part.

Thanks Alligoat. That is exactly what I needed to know.

Thanks, but I think Jensen is talking about modding a 1575 to add the GMT function (many 1575's are engraved with '1570' on the movement bridge and are often referred to as 1570s). I am familiar with that site.

I think it is the same case with the 1560 & 1565, but I agree that it would help to have input from others with more experience with these (1570/1575) movements. Anyone?

My thinking is that there is probably more than just a datewheel required. Another bridge or plate with gearing that runs the additional date change mechanism would probably need to be added. So what I need to know is what parts are required, can they be retro-fit onto the top plate (I assume below the automatic wind/rotor assembly) and where might I get those parts?

Euno -- I am not interested in the GMT functions (or other movements) since I want to use the movement for my DRSD (which has the date window). How sure are you about only needing to add a datewheel to a 1570 to give it the date function? The reason I am pressing this question is because I am trying to buy a no date watch with a 1570 movement to use in my DRSD (if the datewheel can be added easily). But I do not want to buy the watch if I cannot (easily) modify the movement to add the date or it won't work in my DRSD.

Euno -- Thank you for the info, but I am not sure that answers my question: Can you convert a 1570 (without date) to a 1575 (with date) since the basic calibre is the same? Is it just a case of adding an additional screw-on bridge, and if that is the case, does anyone have a source for the bridge or whatever parts are needed?

I thought vintage Seadweller 1665s used 1575s (often engraved with '1570' on the bridge), and the difference between the 1575 & the 1570 was just the addition of the datewheel in the 1575. Is that wrong?

Does anyone know what is required and where to source the parts to convert a 1570 movement to 1575?

Not an expert on 'modern' models, but this looks like a rep to me.

Excellent tutorial, Pug. The quality camera shots make it a reference work.

Ziggy's the master blaster here, but it sounds like either a problem with the keyless works (maybe a bent clutch lever (this governs the stem's movement from mainspring winding to hand-setting)) or a duff mainspring. In either case, you should have it checked.

You just repair watches. Has that become illegal up north?

I think I remember reading about that. Ouch! Did Ziggy say he was unable to repair it for some reason? If you have the replacement parts, I might be able to fix it as long as the tube did not damage the hole in the case (I can tap minor cross-threading, but cannot fix stripped threads). But PM me and we can discuss it if you want.

Nanuq -- I agree that the 20mm bars do not fit the OEM DW lug holes, but, based on the input I have received so far, I have a feeling the 19mm bars may actually have different (narrower) pins. I would not put it past Rolex to use different bars (for different watches) with the same lug widths, which is why I am hoping someone with a real pair (of springbars) will also have a micrometer or a more conclusive answer. I ordered some 19mm bars that Avitt recommended, but I already know that the case diameter on these is narrower than the case diameter of the 20mm gen (or generic) bars (which I have). What is wrong with the crown & tube you already have? I thought Ziggy modded your watch?

7" wrist and you are all probably sick of seeing these, but

How about a nice plain old stainless steel Datejust with bar markers? It is classic, understated and goes well with everything.

Still Thursday here, but this one is joining me for dinner tonight Tomorrow never knows.

Too bad, but thank you for checking RG.

Are the lug holes in DW cases the correct size? After spending the past week studying my Rolex reference books and re-viewing the nearly half gig's worth of gen vintage Daytona photos that I have amassed in my hard drive archives over the years, I still cannot decide whether the lug holes in DW cases are correct or if they need to be drilled (enlarged)? Here is a side-by-side comparison (the lug holes in the case on the left are untouched and the lug holes in the case on the right are drilled to 1.31mm) If anyone has a set of gen 19mm springbars as used in vintage Daytonas and a micrometer, can you measure the end pins and post the diameter? I only need the size of the end pins that fit into the lug holes, not the springbar body itself. ________________________ One thing that IS clear (no pun intended) is the superiority of gen Tropic 21 crystals over either Clark's or Helfands generic lenses. Not only does the gen T21 stand prouder than the generics, but the Plexiglas material literally sparkles in comparison Anyone that may be wondering whether this is a good place to save a little money, I would recommend against it. Go for the gen T21.

Where did you buy this one?