freddy333

TTK - I am looking for a 5514 or 5513 MBW. Have you seen one?

Yes, I hear ya, Tribal. But here is another issue to consider. The case the Fly arrived in looked newer than a watch of 40-50 years of age, so I asked the seller about it. As it turns out, the case is not original to the Fly's dial & movement. So that will make it a bit easier when I have to steal its movement to use in the Newman. But finding a replacement V23 will be a priority so I can get my new baby back into service as soon as possible.

How do you install (tighten) the non-screw DW pushers into the case? After easily installing 3 pairs of Ofrei pushers in non-DW cases, I am perplexed by the DW pushers? Unlike Ofrei's, which has splines that run around the perimeter of the part of the pusher assembly that screws into the case (note the 'points' at the bottom) (This is the Ofrei pusher assembly) The same part on the DW non-screw pusher assembly is just a round, smooth cylinder with threads at one end where the part screws into the case (sorry, I did not take a photo of the DW part -- I just finished overhauling the pusher assemblies and they are a minor pain to reassemble, at least without bending or losing the circlips). So there is nothing for a tool to grip onto when screwing the part into the case. And because the pusher button needs to slide freely over this (inner) part, I do not want to risk scratching or gouging the smooth mating surfaces by trying to use a rat tail file or something similar. I am sure there is a tool or procedure for doing this. Anyone have experience with these?

Nice work. The pearl really sets it off. Now about that crown (you need a gen)..

Were it that simple. Yes, the watch was purchased as a donor. But, while awaiting the required parts for the Newman project (most of which arrived yesterday, but I need to make a couple of correctional changes), it became my favorite (wearable) watch and has been seeing nearly as much wrist time as my beater. So it will need to be put back into service as soon as I can afford to locate a V23 or other suitable movement. Unfortunately, as many here are aware, a Newman is not the type of watch one can (realistically) wear often. So it is just a bit of a shame to cripple my favorite near-daily wearer in favor of a watch that will spend most of its time in a case. But the Newman is my grail watch, so it is a very difficult choice.

That makes the most sense. The search begins for a V23.

Alligoat -- True, but is a Mystery Movement going to be more reliable than an old V23?

Freezing the hand is not a problem, but I am wondering what the price difference is between an average V23 & the mystery movement? I have never used a mystery movement, but my impression is that they are about as reliable as the average secs @ 6 7750 (not reliable). So if a V23 is close in cost, that would probably be the better alternative since I have a funny feeling that this watch may be getting more actual wrist time than the Newman does (yes, I like it that much).

Damn. I just ordered a case from him last week (which arrived in my city at 8 this morning). I guess I will have to place another order. Thank you for the excellent tip, Repaustria.

Yes, that is exactly the problem. I purchased the watch just for the movement, but then I fell in love with the watch. (I hate to admit it, but there are times when this watch looks cooler than the Newman. I probably just need more sleep.) Does DW sell bare mystery movements, or where can I source one? Or would a V22 or V23 be a better alternative?

What would you do if you MUST cannibalize the movement from this watch (for a Newman project), but also want to be able to continue to wear this rare & beautiful timepiece? Considering what I had to pay for the watch (the purchase price was based on its having a V72 movement), I probably will not be able to purchase another fully-functional tri-compax Valjoux watch anytime soon. So I am looking for recommendations on a more affordable alternative movement that I can use with this dial and case. What would you do?

Both crystals are aftermarkets (clarks and Helfands, but I do not remember which is which), but look the same as the T19s being fitted by RSC. As I mentioned above, you will see either version fitted to gen 5513s and other vintage Subs if you browse Timezone.

The standard MBW crystal is good (it looks a bit like a midget superdome), but not a proper Tropic 19. There are a few variations of the T19 (even among the gens as fitted by RSC), depending on whether it was fitted when the watch was originally manufactured or added during a later service. These are aftermarket, but look like the 2 versions currently fitted by RSC If you browse Timezone, you will see either fitted to gen 5513s.

I use the same inserts from the link that MickeyP posted and the pearl sold by ofrei.com ($12 as of last year). (photo made on flatbed scanner, hence the 'bending' sweep hand)

Drop -- I would agree with everything Ubi said except, to some degree, his buying advice about the Clark's crystal. While Clark's IS an excellent crystal and a reasonable alternative for those on a budget, I have found the distortion of images around its circumference to be occasionally distracting. Both Nanuq and I have posted reviews (containing photo comparisons) contrasting the Clark's crystal with the gen Tropic 39 as well as some other popular aftermarket crystals. Bottom line is this -- if you can afford the gen, get the gen (and hope the seller actually sells you a gen and not a repackaged aftermarket lens as has happened to me, twice). If you cannot, get Clark's, which is head and shoulders above any of the other aftermarket T39s I have seen or tried and gives you 95% of what you get from the gen lens. Screech -- The MBWs come with nice CGs, but they are not accurate compared to vintage gen Seadwellers. TTK -- I am still awaiting the word from you on a 5514/5513. Any news yet?

Difficult to tell from your photos, but if you were 'dabbling' with or near the balance, then you probably damaged it. The spring is not terribly expensive, but you are probably looking at 1-2 hours of labor to install a new one. Labor rates vary, so you will need to check with a local watchmaker for pricing. If you have not been 'dabbling', then the spring is probably just magnetized. Magnetized coils will stick together, which shortens the effective length of the spring causing the balance to cycle faster than normal. This is a common problem that usually manifests itself in the watch suddenly speeding up more than a few seconds/hour. If you have a tape head demagnetizer, you may be able to demagnetize the spring by demagnetizing the watchcase the same way you demagnetize a tape head. With the demagnetizer within 1/2" of the watch, switch the power on and make a few circular movements around the face of the watch and then slowly extend your arm (with the demagnetizer still on) until the demagnetizer is an arm's length away and power it off. Repeat on the other side of the watch. If your demagnetizer has sufficient degaussing strength, it should be able to remove the magnetic flux on the spring allowing its coils to separate and return to their normal positions(and the watch's beat to return to normal). If that does not work, I would take the watch to a watchmaker and expect to pay for at least 1-2 hours of labor (some watchmakers will refuse to dismantle anything unless you allow them to overhaul the movement).

I generally prefer to use Bergeon lume paste for vintage watches. It dries to a nice, grainy texture & its relatively weak luminescence more accurately matches the waning glow of 30+ year old tritium. The trouble with the Bergeon stuff is that it is just about impossible to correct mistakes. So if it runs or you paint 'over the line', you are stuck with a possibly ruined dial. As I understand it, the Night Color produces a similar texture, but remains pliable enough to be peeled off (when dry) if you make a mistake. And with my non-artist's hands, that is a big selling point. According to the seller, the order was dispatched today, so I will know more in a couple of weeks. In the meantime, you might search out Edge's original guide to reluming a dial with Night Color. He did a great write-up on this paint & his luming procedure.

Don't hire one, be one. For the unaware (this will be old news to many of the more senior members here), let me add that Rolex is so desperate for competent watchmakers to service & maintain their watches that they will put YOU (assuming you have the required aptitude & mechanical dexterity) through Watch School (which is located in Pennsylvania). Of course, you will need to house & support yourself while attending the 2-year school, but you are almost guaranteed to be in HIGH demand upon (or even before) graduation.

Thanks, Avitt. You have a PM sent on the 27th (need address).

Does anyone know of a source to purchase Revell Night Color in the US? UK sellers will not ship the paint to the US and the 4 hobby shops I contacted in the US say the paint is not available here (2 of the shops contacted their Revell distributor and were told the same thing).

2 things to have your watchmaker check As Avitt & Ubi mentioned, the spacing between the datewheel and the underside of the dial. If there is not sufficient space, the two will rub and restrict the date change. Make sure no adhesive on the back of the datewheel overlay has migrated onto the gears or other parts of the movement. This will gum-up the date change gears (I have had this problem, repeatedly, with the otherwise outstanding Watchmeister datewheel sticker/overlay).

Nice pens. I actually ordered a beautiful S.T. Dupont fountain pen from Sash a few months ago, but never received it.

Most of the parts houses stock generic Rolex spares, but Cousin's catalog makes them easy to find.

To avoid embarrassment and minimize the potential loss of your contraband (replica) watch, I would be honest and up-front. The only question you need to ask is if the watchmaker will service a replica watch. You will nearly always get a simple yes or no. In my experience, most smaller shops need the work and will happily accept your watch. On the other hand, I would steer clear of any shop that sells the gen version of your rep watch. You are asking for trouble if you take it there. No matter how good you may think (or have been told) your rep is, the watchmaker will identify your watch as a rep the second he opens the case (if not before). Beyond that, any competent watchmaker will be familiar with and able to repair whatever movement is in your watch, so there is really no reason to ask if he services a particular movement.

You have a PM.