freddy333

You probably already know about these, but just in case, here are a couple more Comex caseback variations from doubleredseadweller.com

You probably mean this one that I posted last year (from Antiquorum) I have never seen this version on a 1665 though.

Sorry, I missed that small detail. Try these

I assume you mean pictures of the exterior. Here are 3 from my archives showing all the variations I have seen I have a question for you, which I will send via PM.

Thanks, Nanuq. But I think I will be just fine right here Hey, I think I found my car keys!!.........well, someone's car keys............... Maybe they belong to the Rolls, dumbass.. Hey, has anybody seen MY Rolls? It's the one without any Jews in it. No, Mel, but we lost our keys during 'Apocolypto' and YOU weren't in it. And just to keep on topic, buttered reps go great with popcorn.

If the (Queen's) throne comes with keys (to the Rolls), then you may consider me in full, formal bow. Your majesty, do your worst.

In a NASCAR world, the top dollar goes to the car that goes fastest. But, eventually, the beer will run dry, the hype will run down and all will be right with heaven & earth again. But, boy, if ever there was a sure thing in the coming years & I had a spare $725k laying around..

Outstanding Avitt. Really well done.

Actually, you just jogged something else in my memory (alot of loose things floating around in there). I remember, when I read that post, noting that the watch, a 5513, was fitted with what looked like a Seadweller bezel. It was much thicker than the standard Sub bezel. There was only a side photo of the watch in the post, but I remember thinking that the bezel looked odd at the time. And only because it was posted by one of the generally trusted regulars at the time (it could have been James Dowling) that I assumed it was correct and genuine. From what I have been able to gather in researching the Comex Subs, the first shipment of about 150 and some of the second shipment of watches Rolex delivered to Comex were just standard 5513s with a plain steel He valve added (the valves on these early watches were chrome-covered steel instead of stainless steel and often turned black due to the oxidation of the metal after the chrome wore away). The second (and later) shipments were given a unique model number, 5514, and began carrying the 'Comex' label and caseback numbering. I think that is the way it worked.

Yes, I shudder to imagine how he carries all that info without toppling over.

I believe it is the 78360 with 580 or 558B end links.

Thanks Nanuq. I figured you would have some knowledge of this. I am with you regarding the reasoning behind the T39 on the Seadweller, but do you have any documentation indicating the T19 superdome being used on a 5514 or 5513-based Comex non-date Sub? I almost recall someone posting a gen 5514 on Timezone a few years ago with a superdome (not sure which tropic though), but I have been unable to locate either the original post or any other documentation to verify this.

(This is an addendum to the previous Chasing a Grail thread) Looking for opinions on the best crystal to use for a 5514 project (this will be fitted with an original He valve mod as well). As far as I know, the 5514 was never issued with a T39 superdome (please let me know if you have factual info that refutes this), but I am having trouble deciding between the taller len's beveled profile or the shorter len's more square profile. Am I correct in thinking that the beveled lens was typically installed by RSC and the squared lens is probably the style that was often affixed to the watch from the factory? I do not have a gen T21 for comparison (though that is an option as well), but I am wondering what the consensus of opinions are between these 2 (I think 1 of these is from Clarks and the other from Helfands (not sure which is which though)

Euno -- Either you take watch collecting a bit too seriously, or some of us have alot of catching up to do. Outstanding collection.

Looks like Xmas comes early this year for a few lucky children. It is hard to imagine that such a fine collection represents the cost of only about 1 gen. You cannot wear just 1. How pedestrian. Any sight of a MBW 5514/5513 on the horizon for this kid?

So the positions of neither the pinions (for the hour/minute & 3 subdials) nor the dial feet match? That's what I thought, but I had to ask. Thanks Euno.

Does anyone know if the pinions & dial feet positions are the same between the Venus/Lemania bi-compax movements used in some vintage Daytonas (like this) and the V72 tri-compax I know these are different movements, but since they share many of the same components & component positions, I thought the dials might be swappable. I would like to use the dial from this Venus/Lemania-powered watch on a V72 without having to modify the dial or feet? Also, will the vintage Daytona dials from 7750-powered watches fit the v72? I have a handful of these watches and it would be nice to be able to swap dials among them.

If this watch is from one of the collectors that state they hand inspect each watch sent out, I can see your point. In that case, it would seem to me that they should either exchange the watch for the correct one (at their expense) or refund your entire purchase price. I would love to hear the reason from the seller for the mistaken shipment.

Without knowing who you bought the watch from, I cannot say whether it was bait and switch or just a case of a rep factory changing specs on a drop-shipping seller who may never have been informed of the change by the factory (or he may have been out of stock and sent what he felt was a similar watch). If you bought the watch from one of the collectors here and you sent him comparison photos of the watch from HIS website and photos of the watch you received (I would circle in red the items that differ from the watch pictured on HIS website), I am sure he will either swap it for the correct watch or refund your purchase. If he is not willing to do that, there is a Trade Review forum to post your experience to the rest of the members. But I would only post after you have exhausted all the reasonable options dealing directly with the seller. And, yes, you will probably have to eat the cost of return shipping. Be sure to follow the seller's instructions to help avoid additional headaches.

Every commercially made rep contains one or more inaccuracies, sometimes they can be glaring mistakes. And in the case of modern Rolex reps, they can be all the more obvious since you can walk into any Rolex AD and be reminded of how 'off' even the best commercial reps are. I am not a big fan of modern Subs Seadwellers and I do not know who you purchased your disappointing watch from, but I would recommend that you do a bit more reading of the current and recent Sub threads as there appear to be a number of promising items according to other members who are more knowledgeable on the modern lines.

Links > Watch Parts

A donor watch can be had for less than $200, which I admit is still alot to pay just for a valve. If you have a lathe, you could make your own or, as was my backup plan, you can use a small rivet that many watch parts houses & some hardware stores sell. You would still need to fashion the spring clip yourself though. But I just felt it was worth the cost of the extra watch to get a ready-made working valve. With the addition of the 1570, I think an He valve and a gen (or more accurate repainted) dial are an absolute MUST.

Rocket -- As others have said, you are not the only one this type of thing has happened to. I have had not 1, but 2 experiences similar to what Ubi described, where a watch literally fell off my wrist dropping into a sad heap on the table below. It was a good learning experience that taught me to regularly check the bracelets on all my watches.

Same again. Great work.

Outstanding work, KKS. I have been considering the same thing as a finishing touch to my DRSD project. I would love to see your finished product. And if you need info on an He valve, this may work.