freddy333

Ziggy -- Do you know if a broach set ranging from .05mm to .55mm should cover all the hands on the v72 (hour, minute, chrono secs & subdials)? A few months ago, I took a chance and bought a nice Bergeon broaching set, but none of the broaches fit any of the hands I needed it for (too large). So I could use your guidance before I buy another one. I expect that I will be bending and making clamps for this watch too. The only other 'gotcha' I can foresee is getting the pusher stems cut to the right length. Of the 6 pair I did previously, only 2 were wrong. But I learned from that experience to plan ahead, so I ordered a few extra just in case. Other than that, once I get the hands broached and fitted and file off that pin on the side of the plate, I think the rest will fall into place since the crown/tube are already installed (easy) and I have test fit the T21 crystal without any problems.

Ziggy -- Does this broaching set from Cas-Ker look like it contains the correct sizes for v72 hands? The price is good & it comes in a case that coordinates with my drapes.

Euno -- You are sort of right that the watch will probably spend most of its time in a drawer, but not for the reason you mentioned. I just do not think a vintage Daytona is appropriate for daily wear. At least not for me. You probably know that I have had a Venus/Lemania Newman for several years and I would wear it every day if it was appropriate (and I did not mind getting scratches on it, there are none currently). But I am also always conscious of the fact that it does not have asymmetric pushers, so I am sometimes hesitant to wear it to places where I might run into people who know what to look for. But once I complete this v72 Newman, that will be one less thing to worry about and the new watch will get a bit more wrist time. Based on my email exchanges with DW, I think the problem is the same that many Asian rep sellers have -- they do not really know these watches. DW sent me a photo of his personal Daytona and, by our standards, it was a mess. He had an Oyster dial and pump pushers with a Triplock crown. And, until I pointed these things out, he was totally unaware there was any difference. (I cannot really blame DW, since there are so many variations and exceptions to every design rule within Rolex's models, especially these Newman Daytonas.) I have had similar conversations with other Asian sellers of better quality rep watches and parts. A popular dial seller recently updated some of their dials as per my instructions after I gave them a laundry list of problems on their existing dials. They simply were unaware of the details and this is why it is so hard to find rep parts that are completely correct. They have bits and pieces of the puzzle, but never seem to connect the dots, to use the parlance of our times (for you Lebowsky fans out there).

Thanks Ziggy. I thought the pin was for alignment also, but I wanted to get a second opinion before I make any permanent modifications to an (expensive) movement. The DW hands look great and appear to be pretty well made (surprisingly, the 3 subdial hands DO have the correct varying length tubes) But the holes in all 6 hands are just too small to fit onto the pinions of the v72. I can probably broach them if you (or someone) know the correct sizes of the pinions. Also, do you (or someone) know of a good, reasonably priced broaching set? Am I correct in thinking that I need smoothing broaches (and a hand holder) as opposed to cutting broaches to enlarge the holes in the hands?? Does that sound right, RG? Is there a broaching set you would recommend that contains the right types & sizes? The case the donor came with was not its original case. It looked like the previous owner sort of jury-rigged the movement into the case using the original movement fixing screw holes, but the movement was a bit loose in the case when I got it. So I will probably have to come up with something better once I can get the movement into the case to see what fits where and how. And for anyone else who is considering a DW project, you should also expect to have to replace the DW pushers with another set because the pusher holes in the case are just slightly too large for the pushers DW supplies with the case. If you have ever tried to put a screw into a screw hole that is just slightly too large for the screw, where the screw threads never quite interlock (because there is too much space between them), you will have the same experience with these pushers. The gap is not so big that the pushers slide in and out of the holes freely, but the screw threads between the screw and hole do not mate either. So there is no way (short of gluing the pushers into the holes) to properly secure DWs pushers into his case. Fortunately, on a fluke, I found that the pushers I have been getting from ofrei ($12/each) are a perfect fit and I think they are also machined a bit better than the DW pushers. They certainly have a 'richer' feel in use. So when you order a DW case, be sure to order a few pushers from ofrei (part number PD61.701) at the same time. Thanks again, RG. I will keep you posted on my progress.

Has anyone with a completed DW project ever run into these 2 issues before (the pin sticking out of the side of the v72 & the DW hands not fitting the Valjoux pinions)? DW tells me all of the hands should fit, but they clearly do not.

I agree.

Euno -- Not very encouraging, but I appreciate your input. I guess I was expecting more assembly than construction. Hopefully, someone else will know what the pin is and if I have the wrong hands. I can see that it will be worth the effort once I can get it done.

I am having some trouble fitting my v72 movement into the DW 6239 case. There is a pin that sticks out the side of the pillar plate, between the stem and the lower pusher that is causing the problem Anyone run into this before? Also, should the DW hands be a tight fit onto the v72's pinions? I might be able to press them on with some force, but it would definitely take more force than I am used to having to apply to attach a hand. Has anyone had a problem fitting DW's hands? _________ UPDATE: I just compared the Flytimer's original chrono hands to the set I received from DW, and the holes in the original hands are definitely larger, as you can see in this photo The other hands (hour, minute, chrono seconds) are similarly too small. So, unless broached (and, unfortunately, I do not have the proper broach), I do not see how the DW hands can possibly fit a v72 movement. What have others done for hands when building a DW?

Alligoat -- The He valve in my DRSD came from the same watch, but I got mine from either Josh or Andrew (the same case has been around for a few years). There are actually a few different Subs and Seadwellers that use that same case. Unfortunately, the only thing I found useful is the He valve. The rest of the case has too many problems (does not easily accept gen parts, difficult/impossible to remove bezel/insert without damage, etc.) to be useful for serious modding.

This may be helpful

There are too many variations (some very subtle) to be able to explain them all here. But, in many cases, the main problem is the width and shape of the bottom of the CG (where it slopes into the case). If you look at the crowns on a gen & rep of the same model side by side, you will usually see that the lower half of the rep's crown is covered by the lower curve of the CG. On the gen watch, either there is a tiny bit of space between the crown and the edge of the CG or the CG covers less of the crown.

1665fan -- Actually, the MBW cases do have the crease, but it is not as pronounced (deep). I think you have two choices - buy a gen case or modify an MBW (or another case). No rep part is going to be exactly (100%) the same as the gen part.

Thanks Alligoat. That is exactly what I needed to know.

Thanks, but I think Jensen is talking about modding a 1575 to add the GMT function (many 1575's are engraved with '1570' on the movement bridge and are often referred to as 1570s). I am familiar with that site.

I think it is the same case with the 1560 & 1565, but I agree that it would help to have input from others with more experience with these (1570/1575) movements. Anyone?

My thinking is that there is probably more than just a datewheel required. Another bridge or plate with gearing that runs the additional date change mechanism would probably need to be added. So what I need to know is what parts are required, can they be retro-fit onto the top plate (I assume below the automatic wind/rotor assembly) and where might I get those parts?

Euno -- I am not interested in the GMT functions (or other movements) since I want to use the movement for my DRSD (which has the date window). How sure are you about only needing to add a datewheel to a 1570 to give it the date function? The reason I am pressing this question is because I am trying to buy a no date watch with a 1570 movement to use in my DRSD (if the datewheel can be added easily). But I do not want to buy the watch if I cannot (easily) modify the movement to add the date or it won't work in my DRSD.

Euno -- Thank you for the info, but I am not sure that answers my question: Can you convert a 1570 (without date) to a 1575 (with date) since the basic calibre is the same? Is it just a case of adding an additional screw-on bridge, and if that is the case, does anyone have a source for the bridge or whatever parts are needed?

I thought vintage Seadweller 1665s used 1575s (often engraved with '1570' on the bridge), and the difference between the 1575 & the 1570 was just the addition of the datewheel in the 1575. Is that wrong?

Does anyone know what is required and where to source the parts to convert a 1570 movement to 1575?

Not an expert on 'modern' models, but this looks like a rep to me.

Excellent tutorial, Pug. The quality camera shots make it a reference work.

Ziggy's the master blaster here, but it sounds like either a problem with the keyless works (maybe a bent clutch lever (this governs the stem's movement from mainspring winding to hand-setting)) or a duff mainspring. In either case, you should have it checked.

You just repair watches. Has that become illegal up north?

I think I remember reading about that. Ouch! Did Ziggy say he was unable to repair it for some reason? If you have the replacement parts, I might be able to fix it as long as the tube did not damage the hole in the case (I can tap minor cross-threading, but cannot fix stripped threads). But PM me and we can discuss it if you want.