freddy333

Too bad, but thank you for checking RG.

Are the lug holes in DW cases the correct size? After spending the past week studying my Rolex reference books and re-viewing the nearly half gig's worth of gen vintage Daytona photos that I have amassed in my hard drive archives over the years, I still cannot decide whether the lug holes in DW cases are correct or if they need to be drilled (enlarged)? Here is a side-by-side comparison (the lug holes in the case on the left are untouched and the lug holes in the case on the right are drilled to 1.31mm) If anyone has a set of gen 19mm springbars as used in vintage Daytonas and a micrometer, can you measure the end pins and post the diameter? I only need the size of the end pins that fit into the lug holes, not the springbar body itself. ________________________ One thing that IS clear (no pun intended) is the superiority of gen Tropic 21 crystals over either Clark's or Helfands generic lenses. Not only does the gen T21 stand prouder than the generics, but the Plexiglas material literally sparkles in comparison Anyone that may be wondering whether this is a good place to save a little money, I would recommend against it. Go for the gen T21.

Where did you buy this one?

What Nanuq said. Wow!

Ziggy -- If you can check on the hand sizes that would help. Avitt -- I am considering a v71 to use for the Flytimer dial and hands (I am using the Fly's v72 for the DW Newman project). As far as I know, the v71 is the same as the V22 but has the additional hour counter. This is the info I have on the v22/v71 Features: manual-wind chronograph, 60s, 30/45min, pillar wheel sub second Data: 14''', Dm= 31.3mm, H= 6.4mm 17 jewels f = 18000 A/h power reserve 40h This is the info I have on the v72 Features manual-wind chronograph, 60s, 30min, 12h, pillar wheel sub second Data 13''', Dm= 29.5mm, H= 6.25mm 17 jewels f = 18000 A/h power reserve 46h There is only about .15mm difference in the height of the 22 (71) and the 72, so I do not think that should be a problem. But the big question is whether the hands are the same sizes (and in the same positions) between the 71 and 72?

WOW!! Story please.

Thanks Ziggy. If the overall dimensions are that close (within about 1.5mm of each other), is it safe to assume that the 71 should fit the case, but without needing the current spacer ring? I also need to know if the hand positions and sizes are the same between the 2 movements, so I can move a dial from a 72 over to the 71 and everything on the dial will line up correctly? Oh, and welcome back, Zig. I hope your summer is going well. Sorry to hear about the website going down though.

Are the movements and hand sizes the same? (v71 on left, v72 on right) I thought I read once that these 2 movements are functionally the same, but the 71 is larger. But I cannot find the post or website I read that on and I do not know if that is correct. If the 71 is larger, does that mean it will not fit a case made for a 72, or does it mean that it will fit the case without needing the additional spacer ring? Anyone know?

Avitt -- Please PM me for the best goods item (your box is full)

I have a friend that had one of the pusher buttons literally fall off of his 3 year old gold IWC chronograph. IWC said they have to order a replacement pusher. That was more than 1 year ago and as of last week he was still waiting.

The mechanical details of Jensen's frankenwatches are as good as some of the project watches seen here, but he needs to fit them with better dials. I cannot imagine paying his asking prices for a watch with a dial that has so many obvious mistakes (some of the crowns are actually painful to look at)

Functionally, some of the better rep bracelets are nearly as good as the gens. But if you know what to look for, there ARE small differences. For most higher quality rep watches, the rep bracelet is surprisingly good. But if you are going to the trouble of constructing a proper frankenwatch and you have reached the point where the bracelet becomes the weakest link, then I think it makes sense to pay the going rate for the gen parts.

I think you are right about it being Jensen. The 5-lines bridge looks like the one I got from him, but I paid alot less than $495!!

I have been on a similar search for a few months and the 93150 buckle itself (in good condition) often runs around $200. Of course, there are always exceptions to every rule, especially if you are patient and find yourself at the right time and place. But, on average, I have seen the bracelets going for between $550 and $950 recently.

It looks like a frankenwatch. The movement looks like a V730 (I think the V72C had microstella screws on the balance), but the components look too new for that age of a watch. Also, the seller sells aftermarket 'Rolex' parts for Valjoux movements and I would be very surprised if this watch did not contain some of his 'upgrades'. I doubt the watch would pass a Rolex inspection, if that is what you mean.

Stainless steel is shinier and, if you compare the two side by side, stainless tends to be cooler (bluish) and white gold tends to be warmer (reddish).

Buy from a seller with a large number of previous sales & 100% positive ratings, make sure the seller accepts Paypal (so you have some recourse if you find out later that the seller misled you and, if possible, at least until you've educated yourself to be able to tell the difference, pay a bit more for a crown in a sealed Rolex package. Of course, it is possible that an unscrupulous person could forge the package, but that is very unlikely to occur when dealing with someone with a perfect track record of customer satisfaction. One of the telltale signs of a rep Triplock crown are the flatter & wider dots (the dots on gen crowns are smaller and more 3d).

The price is genuinely decent, but the parts are not genuine Rolex. They look like the same cheap parts that most rep watches come with.

A Masterpiece. But it MUST have an HeV and gen bracelet. Did you spray on the matte varnish before or after applying the Night Color?

On the black lizard strap, it HAS to be the black bezel (6241). Nothing less will do. With apologies to BMW, it is the ultimate timing machine But on an oyster, the case is less black and white (no pun intended). It would look something like this (though I would probably fit a folded link 7835) The thing I find appealing about the 6239 (on an oyster) is that it is slightly stealthy. With the matching (to the case and oyster bracelet) silver bezel, the watch calls less attention to itself. At first glance, you might even miss the Newman dial (ok.....so maybe not, but you get the idea). And I think that gives the watch more credibility. On an oyster, the 6239 just looks more like a tool watch. And, to be honest, after seeing Avitt's stunning 6265, it was impossible not to consider the silver bezel option. As far as interchangeable bezels -- Well, if DW is ever actually able to get me the correct (6241) case (he just sent me the 2nd 6239 case by mistake), I will have a 6239 case & a 6241 case. But I only have 1 gen crown and 1 gen T21 crystal (I have additional generic parts for the 2nd watch), which will go on whichever of the 2 cases that ends up being my Main Squeeze. That way, if I feel the need to change, it is an easy job to shuttle the movement over to the other case for a night on the town.

Thanks Diesel. So far, there seems to be unanimity for my original preference (black bezeled 6241). If the watch is worn with a folded link 7835 bracelet instead of the black strap in the 2nd photo, would that make any difference?

I may be alone in this, but I do not think having a yellowish crystal makes a watch look more vintage or old or real. It is rare for a crystal to remain on a watch long enough to turn yellow, naturally. They almost always crack, leak or become too opaque (from scratches and wear) to see through before they will discolor. In almost 25 years of watch collecting (and growing up with a watchmaker in the family), I think I have seen only 3 discolored crystals, and 2 of those were artificially discolored (yours being the 3rd).

Thanks TeeJay.

Yes, I agree completely. But I am not talking about adding anything that is not normally seen on a gen Newman. Of all the gen Newmans I have seen with black dials, most have been the black plastic bezeled 6241 models. I have only seen a couple of the silver metal bezeled 6239s. Although my original plan was to build a 6241, after seeing how the 6239 combination looks, I am no longer quite sure which model I prefer. At least with the black Newman dial, which is why I appreciate your comments. Any others?

Tony -- My original plan was to do a 6241, but fate stepped in -- DW sent me the wrong bezel (metal instead of plastic) & case (a 6239 -- twice) and after trying the 6239 combination out, it started to grow on me. And then it occurred to me that there are fewer Newmans floating around with silver bezels than black. So I am wondering if that, alone, may give the watch a bit more credibility. What do you think?