freddy333

Thanks Ubi. The crystal that came with the case looks like a domed T21, which is why I was wondering if maybe DW had switched to an improved rep crystal recently. Anyway, I ordered a gen NOS T21 yesterday and I will compare it to the handful of aftermarket (flat and beveled) T21s I already have when it arrives. Did you countersink the (gasketed) tube on your vintage Daytonas?

Thanks Avitt. That is what I was thinking.

I think either a sunlamp or soaking the lens in tea should work. I am sure there are other ways to do it, but these two are the first that come to mind. But I have never really noticed enough of a difference to see any reason to try to match metals. It does not seem to be a big deal when RSC replaces similar parts with newer ones on gen watches. At least I have never seen any complaints about this on Timezone.

1. Did you use the crystal or replace it with a gen T21? And if you used a gen, which did you use--flat-top or round-top T21? 2. How did you fit a gen Twinlock crown tube to the DW case? My DW 6239 case came with an (incorrect) rep Triplock crown and tube, which I am going to replace with a gen Twinlock. However, the surface of the case around the tube hole is flat while the bottom of the gen case tube is convex, so the tube and case will not mate properly (at least, not completely). Ordinarily, I would just countersink the case hole. But the case was machined with a second, larger 'step' around the hole and, as it is, when I install the gen Twinlock tube into the case and then screw the Twinlock crown down, it just barely bottoms-out onto the end of the tube before it runs into the case. So if I countersink the hole, the case tube will then sit even lower down below the ridge of this outer 'step' and the crown will end up hitting the case before it bottoms-out or closes onto the case tube. I do not have a good picture of the case, but you can see what I mean by comparing the mating flanges of both the DW Triplock case tube and the Twinlock gen As you can see, the original DW tube is flat where it mates with the surface of the case (which is also flat). But the gen tube is convex shaped where it mates with the surface of the case. Since the crown already barely closes before it hits the case, I am not sure how to countersink the hole to properly fit the gen tube without placing the tube so low into the case that the crown will not be able to close all the way.

Nice work (as usual), Tribal.

Mine came off without any rubbing whatsoever in less than 20 minutes. I sprayed it with 2 coats of paint remover from a local auto parts store, let it sit & then rinsed off the chemicals (and paint) with water. Just to be sure the case was clean, I cleaned it with denatured alcohol (mineral spirits) and a paper towel.

That's what I'm saying.

TTK -- Understood, but please don't forget about me?

TTK, please check your gmail (Subject '333').

TTK - I am looking for a 5514 or 5513 MBW. Have you seen one?

Yes, I hear ya, Tribal. But here is another issue to consider. The case the Fly arrived in looked newer than a watch of 40-50 years of age, so I asked the seller about it. As it turns out, the case is not original to the Fly's dial & movement. So that will make it a bit easier when I have to steal its movement to use in the Newman. But finding a replacement V23 will be a priority so I can get my new baby back into service as soon as possible.

How do you install (tighten) the non-screw DW pushers into the case? After easily installing 3 pairs of Ofrei pushers in non-DW cases, I am perplexed by the DW pushers? Unlike Ofrei's, which has splines that run around the perimeter of the part of the pusher assembly that screws into the case (note the 'points' at the bottom) (This is the Ofrei pusher assembly) The same part on the DW non-screw pusher assembly is just a round, smooth cylinder with threads at one end where the part screws into the case (sorry, I did not take a photo of the DW part -- I just finished overhauling the pusher assemblies and they are a minor pain to reassemble, at least without bending or losing the circlips). So there is nothing for a tool to grip onto when screwing the part into the case. And because the pusher button needs to slide freely over this (inner) part, I do not want to risk scratching or gouging the smooth mating surfaces by trying to use a rat tail file or something similar. I am sure there is a tool or procedure for doing this. Anyone have experience with these?

Nice work. The pearl really sets it off. Now about that crown (you need a gen)..

Were it that simple. Yes, the watch was purchased as a donor. But, while awaiting the required parts for the Newman project (most of which arrived yesterday, but I need to make a couple of correctional changes), it became my favorite (wearable) watch and has been seeing nearly as much wrist time as my beater. So it will need to be put back into service as soon as I can afford to locate a V23 or other suitable movement. Unfortunately, as many here are aware, a Newman is not the type of watch one can (realistically) wear often. So it is just a bit of a shame to cripple my favorite near-daily wearer in favor of a watch that will spend most of its time in a case. But the Newman is my grail watch, so it is a very difficult choice.

That makes the most sense. The search begins for a V23.

Alligoat -- True, but is a Mystery Movement going to be more reliable than an old V23?

Freezing the hand is not a problem, but I am wondering what the price difference is between an average V23 & the mystery movement? I have never used a mystery movement, but my impression is that they are about as reliable as the average secs @ 6 7750 (not reliable). So if a V23 is close in cost, that would probably be the better alternative since I have a funny feeling that this watch may be getting more actual wrist time than the Newman does (yes, I like it that much).

Damn. I just ordered a case from him last week (which arrived in my city at 8 this morning). I guess I will have to place another order. Thank you for the excellent tip, Repaustria.

Yes, that is exactly the problem. I purchased the watch just for the movement, but then I fell in love with the watch. (I hate to admit it, but there are times when this watch looks cooler than the Newman. I probably just need more sleep.) Does DW sell bare mystery movements, or where can I source one? Or would a V22 or V23 be a better alternative?

What would you do if you MUST cannibalize the movement from this watch (for a Newman project), but also want to be able to continue to wear this rare & beautiful timepiece? Considering what I had to pay for the watch (the purchase price was based on its having a V72 movement), I probably will not be able to purchase another fully-functional tri-compax Valjoux watch anytime soon. So I am looking for recommendations on a more affordable alternative movement that I can use with this dial and case. What would you do?

Both crystals are aftermarkets (clarks and Helfands, but I do not remember which is which), but look the same as the T19s being fitted by RSC. As I mentioned above, you will see either version fitted to gen 5513s and other vintage Subs if you browse Timezone.

The standard MBW crystal is good (it looks a bit like a midget superdome), but not a proper Tropic 19. There are a few variations of the T19 (even among the gens as fitted by RSC), depending on whether it was fitted when the watch was originally manufactured or added during a later service. These are aftermarket, but look like the 2 versions currently fitted by RSC If you browse Timezone, you will see either fitted to gen 5513s.

I use the same inserts from the link that MickeyP posted and the pearl sold by ofrei.com ($12 as of last year). (photo made on flatbed scanner, hence the 'bending' sweep hand)

Drop -- I would agree with everything Ubi said except, to some degree, his buying advice about the Clark's crystal. While Clark's IS an excellent crystal and a reasonable alternative for those on a budget, I have found the distortion of images around its circumference to be occasionally distracting. Both Nanuq and I have posted reviews (containing photo comparisons) contrasting the Clark's crystal with the gen Tropic 39 as well as some other popular aftermarket crystals. Bottom line is this -- if you can afford the gen, get the gen (and hope the seller actually sells you a gen and not a repackaged aftermarket lens as has happened to me, twice). If you cannot, get Clark's, which is head and shoulders above any of the other aftermarket T39s I have seen or tried and gives you 95% of what you get from the gen lens. Screech -- The MBWs come with nice CGs, but they are not accurate compared to vintage gen Seadwellers. TTK -- I am still awaiting the word from you on a 5514/5513. Any news yet?

Difficult to tell from your photos, but if you were 'dabbling' with or near the balance, then you probably damaged it. The spring is not terribly expensive, but you are probably looking at 1-2 hours of labor to install a new one. Labor rates vary, so you will need to check with a local watchmaker for pricing. If you have not been 'dabbling', then the spring is probably just magnetized. Magnetized coils will stick together, which shortens the effective length of the spring causing the balance to cycle faster than normal. This is a common problem that usually manifests itself in the watch suddenly speeding up more than a few seconds/hour. If you have a tape head demagnetizer, you may be able to demagnetize the spring by demagnetizing the watchcase the same way you demagnetize a tape head. With the demagnetizer within 1/2" of the watch, switch the power on and make a few circular movements around the face of the watch and then slowly extend your arm (with the demagnetizer still on) until the demagnetizer is an arm's length away and power it off. Repeat on the other side of the watch. If your demagnetizer has sufficient degaussing strength, it should be able to remove the magnetic flux on the spring allowing its coils to separate and return to their normal positions(and the watch's beat to return to normal). If that does not work, I would take the watch to a watchmaker and expect to pay for at least 1-2 hours of labor (some watchmakers will refuse to dismantle anything unless you allow them to overhaul the movement).