freddy333

Excuse my ignorance, but are the end links hollow and does the case have a lug hole in the side? If not, can you post clear pics of the top & bottom side of the links where they fit onto the case?

The weekend starts out looking like this But who knows what it will look like on Monday?

Remember, you are talking about Rolex. And owners have been known to swap bracelets around. So it all seems reasonable to me.

The 1680 came with the folded 9315 or hollow middle link 93150. Either is correct. The watch looks legit to me.

Looks like a white DW to me, which is correct for that watch.

Yes on all counts. They are lovely watches.

If anyone is sitting at work & bored, I operate a pirate radio station on the Web. We broadcast very infrequently, but we are on air now and until about 5am UK time (midnight East Coast US). If you have a java-enabled web browser (Internet Explorer, Netscape, Firefox, etc.) you can tune in to a low-fi feed here. The style is very eclectic and you never know what you will hear in TOKYO. Not really watch related (except that you might hear the occasional Rolex tune), just thought I would mention it since it is Friday night & the end of the week.

I agree with Avitt -- Your work looks excellent. But some of us cannot draw a straight line and have trouble keeping the paint inside the lines.

Tribal -- I remember that and it looks good. Is this the one you applied (slowly) with a pin?

I agree and just did (inquire) Actually, the DRSD dial would need alot more than the index markers. The crown is too narrow and the text in the lower half of the dial is not layed out very well. I do not know if he can do much about that (or better than the original repainter did), but we will see what he thinks. Thanks again for the suggestion, Avitt.

Nice 509 Tony. Nice layout with the box & paperwork. Here is mine (about 6 months old) And the rest of the Rolex Chrono clan

Alligoat -- Yes, I hope Ziggy is having alot of fun in the sun while the rest of us toil in the shade. Avitt -- I forgot about Everest. I would prefer to do the work myself, but I will check into that.

I purchased this stainless steel Daytona 116520 almost 3 years ago in a UK auction. Although it is one of my favorite watches, it rarely sees wrist time (as you can see, the watch is still in pristine condition with NO scratches). However, the watch is wound almost weekly & continues to maintain nearly perfect COSC time (+/- 2 secs/24 hrs). All of the chronograph functions work flawlessly and the only problem the watch has is a twitchy second hand (for those who are unfamiliar with the functions on current Daytona models, the seconds hand is the lower subdial at 6).

I want to change the color of the yellowish index markers on this dial To look like the white index markers on this dial I have considered (but not yet tried) Chlorine Bleach Painting the existing lume with white paint Scraping off the existing lume and repainting with white lume Of the 3, the bleach would be best since, if it works, the original texture and shape of the lume will remain the same. But I do not know if the bleach will whiten the color, or if it will whiten it consistently (without blotching), or if it may deteriorate the lume causing it to flake off. If anyone else has tried this, what did you use & do?

Wow, that is quite a deal! Now, if I can just get ahold of TTK to order a 5513.. Anyone seen TTK around recently?

Not bad, Tribal. Is that the dial the MBW 5513 came with?

My DRSD (running a 2846) has Clark's minute & hour hands. Clark's second hand did not fit the 2846's larger pinion, so I retained the MBW hand, but you can certainly broach Clark's hand if you have the tools. (The apparent bend of the second hand is an anomaly of the imaging process, which was produced using a flatbed scanner)

If you go through the entire site, these guys have some very interesting stuff (though some of it is poorly made), but expensive.

Makes alot of sense on many levels. Thanks.

Compare Subby's to this

I think I used an 11/64" (inch) drill bit. And I have no idea why my previous post got censored. I do not remember the exact word or words I used, but it was something like '[censored]' or 'face', as in the rep tube had a flat [censored] or face. Apparently, the word 'f l a n g e' (without the spaces) is being automatically censored for some reason.

Avitt -- In reference to your watch, I was referring mainly to the normal wearing down of edges that occurs over the course of successive polishings & overhauls it probably would have received by Rolex over the past 3 -4 decades.

As I mentioned elsewhere in another review or thread, if you swapped the dial in my older 116520 rep (this is a watch I got in a UK auction site 3 years ago) with the dial in the 116520 that Andrew is selling, the resulting watch would look like this one.

Avitt -- A brown or rust (or whatever your preference is for aged tritium) artist's pencil should do the trick. No muss, no fuss & and every artist's supply (and some office supply) has them. But, were it mine, I would leave them the way they are. The thing that catches my eye is the overall pristine appearance of the entire watch. The crisp lines and perfectly smooth surfaces. Even after a Rolex overhaul (which is usually the look I go for myself), I do not think the case and dial would look quite that pristine. Actually, I think what bothers me (and it is a relatively minor detail) are the perfectly rounded edges. I think you may have smoothed them a bit too accurately. New, the lines would be crisp & clearly defined. But after 30+ years of use, Rolex overhauls & successive polishings, there would be some irregularities in the lines of the case and bezel. That is why I purposely took a file to the sides of my DRSD (you can see this in some of the recent shots of the He valve side of the watch), so the light would reflect differently in the peaks & valleys of the metal that would have appeared after successive polishes.

Beautiful work & watch, Avitt. My only complaint is that it looks too new (and I only wish I had that problem).