Nanuq

Did you look at the back story? Where it came from? WHEN it came from?

That's the one. I managed to find the entire album, except for the elusive track 11. It ROCKS!

Hey did you hear about the dyslexic agnostic who sold his soul to Santa?

I found the album, lads. Ripped and ready to listen.

Nope I haven't tried them, that was the only good picture of some 702 guts I could find. 702 profile is much easier to find... here you can see why the threads inside the crown extend all the way to the edge.

Although, to answer the other half of your question, yes that is the correct crown for a 1680. A 702 or a 703 is correct. Given the coolness factor of the 702, it's nice to keep them limping along as long as they still work. Even when the "dots" are getting worn away.

Here in Alaska we'd call him "bait"

Freddy, is that a crack I see in your insert at the "8" and "10" positions? Is that a ..... REAL ..... insert?!!!

I snapped this one going up McHugh peak yesterday afternoon wit da hound dogs.

Sorry, I have to disagree. The 703 set adds a 4th o-ring on the outside of the tube, and the smooth inner face of the crown seals against it. You can see that inside your crown photo. A 702 tube has threads all the way down to the case, so the inside of the 702 crown has corresponding threads all the way to its tapered edge. Take a look inside this 702 and you can see it.

Pffffft that's nothing. How about the $23,000 set of Milgauss hands?

I shall name the first one.... "Tim".

Pfffft! Winter is where it's at. I've run, ice-biked and XC skied thousands of miles in subzero temps. Don't let the weather stop you! It helps to breathe through a scarf or polarfleece but it quickly gets ice clogged. So instead learn to put the tip of your tongue against the back of your top teeth and breathe in around your tongue and through your nose to prewarm your air, then exhale through pursed lips to direct the moisture away. You won't frost your lungs and the feeling of a good hot sweat at -20F is exhilarating! Never wear anything but light wool against your skin for this and change into dry bottom layers as soon as you stop. And enjoy the winter!

Cleanup on aisle three!

.....or you can take it to the next level. If a watch is a favorite companion then it's going to get worn a lot. So I've come up with some tricks to loosen it up some. I don't mean loose like falling-off-the-wrist loose, I mean loose like it's got some stretch to it. I took brand new Yuki 7206 bracelet and worked it over to make it look and feel like it's 40 years old. Today I had that gen watch and Yuki bracelet in my Rolex AD getting the crown replaced and he totally believed it was a genuine vintage 7206. When I told him it was an aftermarket bracelet he refused to believe me. Anyway the trick is to use an abrasive metal polishing paste like Flitz. You work it into the bracelet, getting it well down into all of the links. Then hold the ends of the bracelet in each hand and give it a twist along its length and flex all the links of the bracelet up and down pretty hard. Then mash more abrasive paste into the links and twist the other direction, and flex the links up and down a bunch more. Keep doing this, and you will introduce looseness in all of the link joints. When you are done it will look exactly like the bracelet is stretched. Of course the abrasive paste will polish the outer surface of the bracelet while you work it so you need to add some character when you are done. Use your imagination. If you overdo it you can polish it again with the Flitz and you can "brush" it again with a 3M scrubbie pad. Don't forget to add some "age" to the clasp too.

Sorry, I just woke up... the sight... the mere SIGHT of the elusive Stork-alline put me out. Lucky for me Miss Understood came by with a dose of smelling salts! Behold the loveliness... the beauty of the Storkalline.

I'm thinking no on the insert... inside of the "2" angle is pointed, and a narrow "4" should have a tall "5". Need to see a profile shot of the crystal, is it a T-127? That looks like the very old "sorta domed-squarish" T-127 on my 1680.

Good LORD!!! I'm going to sell my entire collection so the funds are ready to buy this. I've heard veiled rumors, whispered snippets of conversation, but have never actually heard anyone say there really is a Daffy Lung. Although, I've heard that Daffy started out shlepping pickles as Daffy Dill, now taken over by his cousin Storky.

HOLY SMOKES!!! Is that a genuine Duck Lung??!!!

Damn right. All the divers who really know their stuff always go for the Donald. Or the Daffy, if they can't afford a full Donald. PADI regulations even spell it out... Professional Aquanauts for Duckly Instrumentation

Thanks Ephry, I'm looking for the Real McCoy, signed Tudor movement.

WOOT! 4,237 feet! Almost deep enough to adequately test my "go to" dive watch.

Okay gents, I'm looking to wrap up a Tudor 7016 project. It currently holds a gen 2783 movement that's had the date components removed, and runs great. I'm looking to replace that with a gen 2461 or 2483 signed movement. Anyone got one for sale, or trade? Advice? My Snowflake dial is currently held on the 2783 with goo dots and fits the case perfectly. I assume I won't have trouble swapping it to the older movements? Help me Obi-wan KnUbi. Your knowledge base is my only hope. Freddy too.

Hmmmmmmmm, sounds very tasty. Verrrrrrrrrrrry tasty indeed !

Thanks Freddy! I'll just send my watch to you and let you do it. I mean... who better to de-detent my click spring?!! Alternatively, I've been on the lookout for a correct Tudor no-date movement. There's a tasty little ETA 2483 on the 'Bay right now, living inside a pretty little Tudor. That would correspond to a 7016, which is my target. Alternate suggestions?