Nanuq

I've used those pearls too, they're very nice; the clear part is very clear and that's hard to find. I bought some from Yuki and after some polishing they were very glossy and clear too but the lume was wrong. So I dug one out with a pin cut off like a drill, then I custom blended some appliance "bone" lacquer with other chunky tints and filled it. And it almost came out as nice as these!

Yes the cold will eat your batteries in minutes. Use a mechanical watch, mechanical compass and a REAL gps in your inside coat pocket. I have to do this just for my climbs from my front door and it's not -100F either. Keep up the training, be prepared for some real pain. I recommend exercise bikes for the knees, and when they toughen up start climbing. There are muscles you need for survival that you don't even know you have, yet.

Try Josh's 5512...

Trying something new... 1675 on a strap... I like it!

Talk to these people. Betcha they can do it. http://www.krdial.com/

I just ban everyone that asks to be my friend. Simple solution.

"Probably"?? Pfffffffffft. Let's have a definite "yes" or "no" here. Your answer is 42.

Hand and body warmers? Nope not a good idea. That's "false" heat and it doesn't solve the problem when you're cold and getting colder. If you're in trouble and need to warm up, you have to somehow exert yourself enough to create heat from the inside out. I bet Miss Understood would come along as your climbing companion.

Yeah this will be as different from Rainier as the moon. It's a whole 'nother world up high. There is no shelter up there, no treeline, so you'll depend on snow caves or stacked snow for windbreaks if it all goes sideways. You'll want to spend a lot of time acclimating to the cold. It's one thing to have a climb go as planned, it's another when the weather goes bad. You can realistically plan on spending a few days in your feathers inside a shelter with wind hammering you. That means you have to stay dry as you stay warm. Lots of people plan for one and not the other, their gear gets saturated with perspiration and freezes, and they're done. We have a great climber here named Vern Tejas and his first attempt of the north face of McKinley in winter he had to call it off when his ultra warm sleeping bag iced up. By the time he pulled out it was like 10 lbs of ice. It's hard to believe but hyperthermia is a very real danger at high altitude. When I take my scouts out in ultra cold weather I warn them to watch for that... it's easy to overdress and then the exertion overheats you badly. Use your layers and run those zippers up and down constantly! Micromanage your heat and perspiration continuously to stay dry and comfortable. Don't forget your spares... lash extra boot laces around your ice axe. Wax your zippers. Ziploc your spare socks and inner gloves so they stay dry. And though it seems gruesome, have someone write your SSN on the small of your back above the belt line with a sharpie.

That looks like a 5.3mm twinlock... available anywhere. Are you sure that's a 2462 movement, and not a 2461? I've been searching out a 2461 for over a year. I'd be willing to trade a very nice and remarkably strong 2784 for it.........

Wow, this will be an epic adventure! Where to start? Old-school rules in my book. Screw the synthetics for bottom layers, they get clammy and are never really warm. Same with silk. Get some Smartwool zip tnecks for against the skin. Dale of Norway makes good thin bottom layer pants. Middle layer can be fleece, get good elastic at the waist and wrists. You can freeze it and shake it out to "dry" it. Outer layer should be down, but it HAS TO BREATHE. Your exertion will produce so much sweat that it will saturate the down and you'll lose your insulation. Bring duct tape for when you tear it, 5 wraps around the water bottle. Your pants can be down (like TNF Nuptse) but I really prefer the Mountain Hardwear Mountain Tech pants. You can kneel in snow and not get wet, and they dry quickly. They're tough to fit over mountaineering boots. A rain shell over them weighs nothing and it's crazy warm. I wear Montrail Verglas boots, thoroughly treated with wax for waterproofing. They're pretty light, VERY stiff and warm. Make sure you rub your feet down with antiperspirant before you put them on. Wear windproof hats and thin wool gloves inside thick down mitts. Outdoor Research makes some good ones. Eye protection is critical, I use Julbo Sherpas and love 'em. The leather pieces at the corners won't fit right so soak them in water and shape them to fit your face. Stick with the "3 Ms" Marmot, Mountain Hardwear and Moonstone. Can't go wrong. I use a King Tut bag by Mountain Hardwear, but it's the old one with Goretex shell rated to -40F. It breathes really well, and again that's critically important... otherwise the down will saturate with your humidity and freeze, Look at Possumsoft for socks. They're from New Zealand and are made from the NZ "possum" fur. They weigh nothing and they're crazy warm. Also not very durable so bring extras. Layer them under Norsewear knee high socks. Note these will fill your boots quickly and the Montrails I mentioned are very low-volume so size them up. Bring a thin mechanical watch and a manual compass. Bring a "real" GPS. Don't trust your phone, it will freeze and kill your battery in minutes. Bring a real digital camera and keep it in your inside pocket. I use a Black Diamond Icon headlamp and love it. Bring 3 extra alkaline batteries (not NiMH) and wear it under your hat. Plan on an oversized hat for this. Remember this is an expedition and your life is at risk. Get only the best gear and prepare it well. Go slow and THINK. Get a climbing partner you can trust with your life. Then have a blast!

$8,200 so far, for an old box full of parts. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300615711543

Wearing an old friend today

Thinking of picking up two, one for the Snowflake and one for the 1675.

I recently shipped some watches and some parts to Sweden, no problems. For a really valuable piece you can go Fedex or DHL and if you finagle the "small box" rate it's around $30. There's no USPS registered mail option to Sweden but a private carrier is pretty reliable.

Now Google it and see how the albums are being "released".

The walrus is paul ... the Walrus is paul ... the walrus is Paul

Yeah, careful with that too... last gen 9315 I bought was $400.

Anyone else? I saw the end links and thought twice about spending $200 on something they make for $4.99

I see Yuki has a new/improved 7836 for $195 that takes gen springbars. Has anyone tried one yet?

VR44, I've got to give you a huge thumbs up for this. You've done your homework before putting this post together. And what a breath of fresh air to see the old Rose Tudor thread resurrected! That was a nice read. Keep up the pursuit, you're going to end up with a very nice build.