Nanuq

That sucker is the "Mister T" of 6536 Subs.

Bingo. 200m=660ft is what we want here.

No, if it was that, then the remaining metal "ring" would be overlapping the edges of the triangle. Those modern pearls are huge! What he's got here is a correct "look" for old inserts that used to be filled with lume "paste". It's something that will be, unfortunately, expensive to fix.

I'd just make two small changes. One, of course, is you buying my gen 6538 bezel from me. The other? Let's see who can spot it. It's not the crown.

Delta will be offline for awhile now as he runs home to change his shorts. I've been waiting for it, but nobody has commented on the "M" being larger than the neighboring letters. Here's another little Rolex weirdness: it's supposed to look that way. Check it out: http://media.photobucket.com/image/5514%20comex/marci52/5513A1.jpg

BESIDES the fact they misspelled the word "Oyster"! Made ya look!

These guys are NUTS.

Let me add to what Stephane posted, also as a member, not as an Admin. (removes Admin hat) I have a Rolex 6536 that's 58 years old. I had the incredible good fortune of having Ziggy fix my dial, removing decades of crap and recreating lume dots exactly like the originals. By _brian_ standards, this is no longer a gen watch. I also have a 1940s pre-Breitling Navitimer with a v72c movement. A staff was broken in the movement, and again Ziggy was willing to take on the project. He did not just replace some blued screws, he found a wheel and staff from another variant of the v72c movement and installed it. Unfortunately that made the movement operate slightly different but it's fixed and working again. But by _brian_ standards this is not a gen watch anymore. I have a 1963 Rolex GMT in absolutely original condition, except somewhere in its past, someone replaced the original dial with an extremely rare "radial" dial, also from the Rolex factory. By _brian_ standards this watch is now a pathetic piece of crap, not a gen, because one part is not like all the other vintage GMTs out there. I have a Rolex 1680 and I had the crystal replaced with another genuine Rolex crystal, but it has a bevel around its top perimeter. It's a genuine Rolex crystal and it's just like 1,000 other 1680s out there but by _brian_ standards it is no longer a genuine Rolex because a part was replaced with another equally acceptable part. A part from Rolex. I have a vintage Land Rover with new body panels. They were custom fabricated and are not Land Rover parts. Unfortunately, by _brian_ standards it is now no longer a Land Rover. Maybe it's a Jeep? I don't know if you can understand the point I'm making here _brian_ but when I change a meaningless part of my genuine piece with something functionally identical, even though it looks different it does not remove its "gen" status. I think you have some apologizing to do, for dragging this good man's name out here in public and impugning his character. And, I really don't care what you say in reply. Your opinions and expertise mean less than zero to me now. Okay I'm done. Putting my Admin hat back on now. _Brian_ this place exists to share watch information and expose scammers, while pointing out who the good guys are. You made your case for FXR being a scammer and it was thoroughly shot full of holes. We have all learned something here today, and have been reminded of some things. I hope you have learned some things too. I don't personally believe this is a ban-able error but damn, you're on thin ice. Take some time to think hard about this, and the way you handled it, before you post on RWG again.

What's really sad is that they put reelection before the good of the country.

http://www.theonion.com/articles/emergency-team-of-8thgrade-civics-teachers-dispatc%2C21023/

It looks like two humiliated kids in the car with her, surrounded by tourists clicking away. Now the kids will need therapy on top of the wreck.

Send me the details and I'll do it.

Mmmmmmmmm, yummy.

An additional detail, the "S" in SUBMARINER should look like a backwards "Z". Looking good but you need to back way off on the "weight" of the fonts and minute tics. Check the font sizes too. The "R" in "TUDOR" should end its tail between the letters "N" and "C" in "PRINCE".

When I zoom in, does my blue eye spy a square "o" in "comex"?? That's a detail people always miss! Niiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiice!!

That's a good question. You have to remember that we are here primarily to share information about watches and buying and selling experiences, to out scammers, and to shout the praises of people who do good work. If we received discounts from a dealer, then we could no longer be neutral in our critique of his business. That would taint our process, so it can't happen. You can always ask for a deal and offer to say good things about it publicly if it works out well, but we're not going to ask for a special "RWG discount". Our board integrity demands that we separate ourselves as a board from those kinds of entanglements.

Since he's printing white on a clear decal, it's up to you. You could paint a dial blank orange and have a Doxaflake. Or an Irishflake green. Or a Cornflake yellow.

....and I just spent HOW much money on a gen dial?!

For some odd reason I want to sing a song! "Lollipop, lollipop oh lolli lollipop..." Very nice Freddy!

1958 Submariner

Good question. I was in a 1-ton Ford truck once outside Nuiqsut and there were polar bears so I stopped about 30' away to admire them. When I got back to camp I mentioned it and Joe said "I bet you thought you were safe in that truck? They just weren't hungry."

Thanks, it wasn't too bad. I installed a crazy strong door and mounted it like I meant it. A couple deadbolts on the other side ought to help. A "bear proof" gate proves harder to build. I thought I had one, and it was only a black bear that destroyed it. We have brown bears up here around 1,000 lbs and the gate would no way keep one of them off the deck. So I removed the temptation, no more bird food up there. That ought to do it. But I'm keeping my shotgun on the main level for awhile instead of the bedroom.

Try SofScrub, a liquid kitchen cleanser. Or if you want to maximize the results get some Flitz metal polish paste, work it into the links thoroughly and then flex and bend the bracelet VIGOROUSLY while twisting it along its long axis. That torques the joints so they make tight contact with their adjoining links and as you flex it, the paste and pressure just eat the metal in the joints. This works GREAT on Yuki's 7206 too. When done it will be loose and silky, then you'll probably want to re-brush it, as the polishing paste will polish the links too. Then oil it up and enjoy.

BWAHAHAHAHAAAAAAAA!!!!!

We went out to Eklutna yesterday for some climbing up The Mitre and tried to do a quick out and back as the weather deteriorated. It went to heck on us as we came back with the wind picking up and raining sideways, blowing the Red Rover all over the road. So home and dry, all was well, and a bit of a windstorm hit. *cough* It tore the front door off the house, tearing out 12 screws in the hinge side of the frame, and the jamb where the deadbolt tongue slides in. Lucky we have an arctic entry, sort of a double door arrangement with dead space between them, so the breezes pretty much stayed outside. That was "bang" #1 last night, as the door tore free and hit the side of the house. "Bang" #2 happened at 5:00 this morning when a great big fatty bear came up the back steps and destroyed my "bear proof" gate onto the deck, and ate all the bird food. I have my work cut out for me today!