bkdc

I'm sure it's not the clutch. And yes, I'm turning the date wheel in the correct direction in the 1st setting. The problem lies in the 2nd setting. When i advance the time, I only get the datewheel to rotate half way in between dates until I advance the time a lot more... I'm pretty sure it's a mechanical issue with the date mechanism but I'm not crafty enough to figure it out.

When i advance the time on my watch, the date wheel clicks but it advances only halfway between dates. As I keep winding forward, the date finally moves into normal position. This keeps repeating itself as I keep winding forward. I took apart the date mechanism and reassembled it. I got it working only temporarily but my problem again resurfaced. What am I doing wrong? I know this is a simple answer, but I can't seem to figure it out. By the way, the day wheel is not on. I am only using the date wheel on the 2836.

I'd prefer to just purchase a new datewheel overlay without sending in my datewheel disc to you. This would be the easiest way for all unless you can actually fit the numbers onto a standard 2824 datewheel and still have it centered on the date window.

I used the Bergeon bezel remover. It was a b*tch and I scratched the bezel on the side along with the bezel insert. Tape up the bezel insert before you attempt removal with the Bergeon tool. Then just twist with patience and persistence. During the process I had to regrasp the bezel with the tool about three times. It's very very VERY difficult even with the Bergeon tool.

I've purchased over a dozen replicas from various dealers. All of them are ETA automatic or manual wind. I'm thinking of purchasing a quartz rep. However, I am a stickler for accuracy. (the genuine should be quartz too). What's your recommendation on an accurate quartz rep??

The seller doesn't know any better. I hope he didn't get ripped off buying it.

I agree. The bracelet is the biggest problem with the 38mm Royal Oak. It's cheaply made. The endlinks need to be wider and the bracelet needs to be thicker. I really hope the bracelets from the upcoming RO chronos fit into the 38mm ETA RO.

Outstanding work! Count me in for 1

Yet another seconds at the 6o'clock position issue.

I thought and thought and thought about it. 500 dollars for a genuine Steinhart? Or about the same price and a few hours of work for a fully modded EL Pam 127 with swiss movement? Hmm..... I'll take the rep Pam 127.

If the watch is opened from the front, how do you take the movement out? How do you remove the stem/crown from the movement?

Steinhart is having a sale on all its Unitas based watches. They're all 500 dollars.

2892 is a sweet movement. I'd be willing to pay extra for the 2892 instead of a 2824 or 2836. The second hand sweeps soooo smoothly.

I was able to get the endlinks to sit flush by unscrewing the endlinks from the case, taking apart the middle piece of the endlink, and rescrewing everything back together. They're put together in a hurry at the factory with brute force and speed rather than with patience. It's a stunning replica. Only a WIS will notice the cross shape. I already relumed the indices and hands with C1 Superluminova. I'm not going to bother with the cross.

Again, if anyone knows where to get genuine Breitling hands, please share the info. I dislike using epoxy on my subdial posts.

You'll learn more as you study these watches. You can buy a new ETA 2824 movement for 50 bucks. It's not that expensive.

It's also not cheap when you lose little parts left and right as they fly off your desk.

I use a low power microscope. Camera idea is nice, but I like to have depth perception.

How do we tell whether it's the old Asian 21600 or the new asian 28800 movement? I'm confused. I have two spare swiss 7750's hangin out at my place, so if this is really is the old asian with the standard hand sizes, it's coming out!

Nice! If anyone knows where I can purchase authentic Breitling hands and chrono sweep hands, I'd appreciate it. I hate having to modify the hands for a swiss movement swap!!!

They're good quality movements if they're cleaned up. I just wish the chrono seconds and subdial sizes would be directly interchangeable with swiss ETAs. I don't know why they can't do this.

Quick question. Is the Asian 7750 in the IWC GST Titanium the older 21600bph movement or the newer 28800bph movement? Just wanted to know.

Some Chinese company will start mass-producing decent quality movements. I'm not worried.

I'd buy it if the face were a little more accurate.

Given the resourcefulness of our rep makers, I don't think it will take long to produce an accurate replica of the newer model. I prefer the look of the older model.