jdavis

Many people don't care to hear the truth about a purchase if it reminds them that they have been foolish. Trying to reverse the blame by giving the impression to the barer of the bad news that they are the inept one simply is a way to stroke their own damaged ego. A number of years I had a friend come to me to evaluate his recent expensive antique gun purchase. It quickly became apparent that the firearm was not what my friend thought. I gently gave him the bad news only to have him become insulted and rather angry at me. A few days later he came by to inform me that he had taken his gun to someone else who praised him for making a wise purchase. He had either found someone who told him what he wanted to hear or he lied to protect his self esteem. Hence forth, I learned to be neither negative or positive with my remarks until I know how it will be taken.

Of course, it should be of interest to anyone who is buying replica watches. If the members of this "cartel" became known to forum members, perhaps it might encourage purchasing from the other dealers. I believe that most anyone who has been around this market for a while could guess at least a couple of "cartel" members.

Not to hijack the thread but, I have a related question. I ordered a replacement 2824-2 stem from a well known supplier by part number. What I got was just the portion of the stem that fits into the keyless works. I called and explained that I needed a stem with the post or threaded portion also. I received the post or threaded half only. I never realized that the stem came in two parts which I can't figure how they can be put together anyway. Can someone tell me how I can use these two parts or do I simply need to locate a one piece stem?

You can buy most of the basic things that you need from Ebay sellers. If you want higher grade tools, Jules Borel or Otto Frei can supply with genuine Swiss tools that are expensive but excellent products. Unless you intend to make a profession of watchmaking, the basic tools will serve a hobbiest well. I strongly recommend that you purchase a jewelers lamp and magnifier with articulating arm Harbor Freight Tools has this one listed magnifier lamp which is a steal, if it is any good at all. Other things to consider: bench mat (it will keep those tiny screws from bouncing into no mans land when you drop them ) small parts tray (I have used a small plastic lid in a pinch) case holder movement pad crystal or case back press good tweezers (one of your most valuable tools) hand puller spring bar tool with interchangeable ends 10x Lupe hand puting tool silicone grease for case gaskets (0-rings) tube of Hypo cement optical lens cleaner and micro fiber cloth (cleaning crystals) dial duster good set of screw drivers on a rotating base case openers I am certain that other more experienced members could add or subtract from this list but, it should be a good start.

This is an interesting and most informative thread. It reinforces thoughts that I have had for some time. The very business of selling counterfeit watches or products suggests that the participants might be less than honorable. Our forums have perpetrated the impression that these individuals are "trusted" and helped to establish a rapport with them that suggests a personal friendship to the buyer. Nothing could be further from the reality of the situation. Dealers know you by how much you are willing to spend because money is the true motivation for the pseudo relationship. Perhaps in a few rare instances a true personal relationship exists but, I suspect that it would be rare. There is much money to be made in this illegal and shady business and with that comes corruption. For we buyers to have an impact on prices would require a world wide effort because thousands of orders flow into China from around the globe. Many buyers have never heard of these watch forums and are delighted to find a decent replica at a fraction of the cost of a genuine watch even though the price may be high by replica standards. This is the exact train of thought the dealers want you to have and it enhances the posibility of of more price increases.

This is a tough call but, I see it this way. You purchased a used watch with no express or implied warranty. It could therefore, be assumed by both parties that the purchase would be as is. There is also the possibility that the watch was affected during the shipping process. The seller in this case, would not appear to be liable for repair if the watch did not run properly. Although, it certainly would be commendable if the buyer would accept responsibility. However, you might inquire if the watchmaker guaranteed his service. If so, you should have recourse and be able to return the watch to him for regulation.

For everyday the UPO is definitely the best choice. It has the style that will be appropriate for sport or work. The Yacht Master rolesium is a bit on the "bling" side to suit me for everyday wear. I find it OK for occassional wear and great when the event calls for more than casual atire. The difference between the Asian and Swiss movments means much to some and nothing to others. IMHO, the Swiss ETA 2824 or 2836 movements will provide you with the best long term service and accuracy. However, there are those that will argue that the Asian movements are just a accurate and if one should fail replacement cost is less than $20. That is all well and good if you have the knowledge and skill to replace the movement yourself. If you don't have the skills, the quality of the Swiss ETA will make it your obvious first choice.

I hate to be the barer of bad news but, I also ordered the tap and wrench from Jules Borel on the 17th of July. The items are back ordered so, be prepared to wait a while.

I found the same problem on a Datejust (not Silix) when I tried to install a new bracelet. It is difficult to imagine how this happens. Just verifies the lack of QC in this "cottage" industry. I was able to resolve the problem by opening up the space inside the bracelet ends for the spring bars. This can be done with a broach or you could accomplish it by drilling it. I wasn't able to get it perfect but with much less strain on the pins. I certainly would not recommend attempting to alter the case holes.

Sounds as if your wife would be a good candidate for an Omega Aqua Terra. It will be just the right size and is available with a good white mother of pearl dial. Here is one from Perfect Clones with ETA movement.

Dang Corgi, The President says class and distinction like no other and is such a beautiful and classic design. I honestly never thought much about owning the gold Day/Date and even considered it a bit gosh. Now, after seeing your photo and reading your description, I have it on my to get list. Thanks a lot

For shooting larger caliber handguns which impart a substantial jolt to your arms and hands, there is nothing better than a Casio G-Shock. The G-Shock is built like a tank just for such activities. It is the complete "tool" watch that you can beat the daylights out of and not harm it. For golf I often use an Omega Aqua Terra on an alligator strap to keep it snug on the wrist. Golf doesn't impart near the shock to the wrist as shooting so the possibility of impact damage is almost nil. The biggest threat is perspiration salts which can damage straps and over time have deleterious effect on metal. This is particullary true in hot climates such as here in Florida. I always give my watch a light wash down after such exposure. I wonder how well the Tag Tiger Woods quartz rep will hold up. I noticed that he doesn't wear a watch when playing.

I don't think the Omega is cartoonish. In fact, I find it rather appealing. You want "cartoon"? Have a look at this puppy from Perfect clones!

Jules Borel has them. I would give them a call to be certain to get the proper stems.

The Submariner only shows the numerical day of the month. I assume that you have pulled the crown out to the second position and tried to rotate the date wheel manually or pulled the crown to the third positon and rotated the hands through a 24hour cycle to see if the date will line up properly as it changes. If it fails to correct itself, more than likely the date wheel overlay was applied incorrectly or the adheasive has failed and allowed it to slip from its position. The repair requires that the movement be removed, hands pulled, and dial removed in order to repair your problem. If you are not comfortable with this repair, I would recommend that you return the watch to your dealer or send it to a local watchsmith.

Corgi, I have a 14K thickly plated bracelet that has a similar problem as your bracelet but, not as severe. It is my understanding that the discoloration is caused by handling prior to plating by workers and the oil from the fingers was not removed prior to plating. The result is the discoloration that you see on your gold bracelet. I have been able to remove it with a gentle application of Flitz which is a non abrasive polish. However, the stains will return gradually in a week or so.

Thanks for the responses. However, I think that you must be thinking about a 1570 movement which has no stem release button. My 3135 has a release button near the point of entrance for the stem. A simple push and it came right out without resistance. The problem is getting the stem back in. I have checked for a screw and did find one close by but, it had no effect when loosened. There must be some sort of release/retaining mechanism that I can't seem to locate. It is likely a simple proceedure once the method is discovered. I have been looking for a post by The Zigmeister but haven't found the right one yet. In looking carefully over the movement, I noticed that there is a slot to the right of the release button. It has a tiny brass foot that can be used to slide it back an forth within the slot. I have not found that the movement of this has any effect on the insertion of the stem. UPdate: I have discovered the problem. One of the movement retaining screws that slides under the case groove wasn't seated under the groove. Therefore, the movement was not aligned properly and the stem therefore couldn't align properly to fully seat. Once the movement was seated correctly, the stem easily slipped home. A happy ending.

I removed the movement of my gen 16233 to replace a chipped crystal. All went well except when I attempted to reinsert the crown and stem. I will go part way but will not fully click into place. I have tried pressing the release button while pushing it in to no avail. Apparently, I am not doing something that is necessary to complete the stem installation. Any assistance will be most appreciated.

Agree with those that said you need to post better pictures. It might help if you will tell us where you got this watch.

Very difficult to criticize indeed. It looks exactly like the one shown on the Rolex web site. They, however, won't sell theirs for $100

This might work .......(perfect clones image)

His description says "OEM quality". This implies to me that they are not genuine but replicas.

Don't do anything until you have talked with your dealer about the situation. They encounter these difficulties with Customs all the time and handling them is routine for them. Most likely your dealer will send you another watch and tell you to deny any knowledge of the package and let them do as they will with it.

Tweezers are my most essential and frequently used tool when working with my watches. It is the one I could not do without.

Now you know why the submariner is the top selling model. Seven subs sounds reasonable and normal to me. I only have four....but I want another