Ok well here's the deal. This project is based off a gen movement so if I rule that out I'll keep my super Franken TW sub and just upgrade the bracelet. Keep in mind when my sub is done everything but the actual case itself will be gen also I could buy a gen sub but that will be very costly! 5-7 grand vs. the cost of a movement, hands, ect I basically have all the parts except the 2 big factors being the case and movement. Anyhow I appreciate the input! Good things to consider! Great thing about my project is one day I'll run into a gen case and swap it over and presto I am all gen
So I almost have all my ducks lined up in a row to make this happen. I need expert guidance and suggestions here to get going here. Here's my idea so far all comments welcomed:
TC case sanded rehaut or sean case
Genuine 3135 (need to source)
Genuine late model dial (in stock)
Genuine hands (need to source)
Genuine crown/tube (in stock)
Genuine insert/crystal (in stock)
TC bracelet or possible hybrid bracelet with best SEL FIT
Genuine bezel (need to source)
I know Sean's case has a more gen like bezel but TC case seems to do the trick and it costs about half that of a Sean case. So in your opinion what makes more sense. I have always wanted a gen sub and I feel like this will get me as close to possible with out breaking the bank and plus it's one I build myself vs just waking in a store and leaving with a completed watch...doesn't sound all that fun to me I need the challenges and voyage a gen Franken build calls for
As long as your NATO strap is skinny enough to squeeze thru the spring bars it should work. I have seen NATO on deep sea, 16610, 1680, 5513, 5512, DRSD ect. Interestingly enough I have not seen a 116610 with NATO
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mens-Rolex-16600-Series-Stainless-Steel-Black-Sea-Dweller-Dial-Mint-Condition-/280837350994?pt=Wristwatches&hash=item416335e652#ht_3184wt_92
Hope this may help anyone out with a sea-dweller project! this guy also sold me a really nice gen sub dial so I recommend him
I would suggest as a first timer going with a 2836 as they are proven reliable were as the 3135 is still an immature movement that has bugs to work out. As far as water resistance goes if your going to do some light diving I would suggest having someone grease and check all of the gaskets and seals. I would even do an epoxy mod to seal up the HEV valve. Hope this helps