RWG Technical

Yes JoJo, I seem to remember that 5508 very well...it had a nice feel to it, and was sure a nice piece, not as nice as the company at dinner though.

Great reunion, so glad to see it on your wrist.

In addition to the above, it could be that the balance wheel is touching something when it's dial down position, that would be the first thing I would look for.

Very nice indeed. I have run into similar problems with crown tubes or case pushers that don't fit. The solution I came up with, and have done a few times since, was as follows: 1. Drill out the case slightly larger than the diameter of the pusher threads (you need some meat for the following step). 2. Make a brass bushing that accepts the new pusher and that is machined for a press fit in the case. 3. The brass bushing is drilled, then tapped for the pusher, then it's machined to fit the case, cut to length, and driven home in the case. 4. Once the new brass bushing is installed in the case, the pushers are threaded into it. On some I have been able to make the bushing small enough that it's not visible, on others you can see it slightly. From what I can see, you could probably make a busing the size of the existing hole.

It sounds like a couple of things are going on. Seconds hand seems to be touching the minute one, which is not an issue until the movement is trying to change the date and is loaded down from the datechange. Then the added friction is enough to bring everything to a halt... Certainly the seconds hand has to be adjusted so it's not touching anything, and I would say that the beat of the balance wheel may not adjusted correctly which is only adding to the problem. It could be that the movement overall is not clean or well oiled, again, adding to the problem. I don't think this movement is critical for the dateset time, so that's probably not a concern.

I never look at post count, its meaningless as far as I am concerned. It could be as simple as the original owner being more physically active while wearing the watch, or maybe he wound it a few turns each morning, there can be many reasons for it working fine for him and not for you. I am not trying to make excuses for the seller, simply state the facts as I see them (I don't have a clue who the original owner is, never spoke to him). A friend of mine can't wear an automatic, it keeps stopping on him due to inactivity. I have had watches show up for lume alone that were working fine for the owner, only to act up when I test them after I finish the work. Unfortunately, unless it's been serviced and everything is adjusted perfectly, it's a hit and miss as far as running is concerned, especially this particular movement. I was not aware of any improvements to the seconds at 6 model, I have not noted anything different in the design or success after servicing since they were introduced a number of years ago. I hope you both work something out.

Are you saying that before the PR would get to 0 before the watch stopped running, and now the watch stops running with the PR at 6?

Very nice, the overall look is impressive. Congrats on such a nice piece, I guess its' true what they say, you don't know what you have until it's gone...don't let this one get away again...

Power reserve and stopping endlessly while being worn - have nothing in common. An "Unserviced" watch is just that, unserviced and unknown. Unless it's serviced, cleaned, oiled, adjusted, etc, there are many things that could cause the watch to work intermittently, the original owner clearly stated that it wasn't serviced. This is a seconds at 6 model, the most unreliable model ever produced, especially when not serviced and with all the gears in place. As far as I am concerned, the watch is behaving exactly as I would expect it to... The original owner has also been a member for over a year, it is doubtful that he would intentionally sell the watch without disclosing all the defects, defects he was aware of. I side with the seller, I don't think he did anything wrong or mislead you.

Very nice, happy thanksgiving.

According to the Techinical Litterature from RC Tritec, the variables that decides how bright lume glows are the: 1. thickness and 2. width. More lume = a brighter glow. The only important factor is the actual thickness of the lume, if that thickness was achieved with 1 or 101 coats it makes no difference to the brightness. I use RC Tritec reflective base paint on the dial before applying the lume (when possible), and on the back of all hands. If Super Luminova is good enough for Rolex, Breitling, Panerai, and the rest, it's good enough for me. I have never seen an independent comparison of the two side by side, it needs to be done by someone with no interest either way, it's so easy to cheat on lume pictures...

Anyone else notice that this post is 2 years old...

Not a problem, just let J know on email when the time comes...

Great job, they both look really nice. I actually have the identical one with the linnen dial, in fact it's my first ever rep, going back to Oct 2004. Thanks for the memories...

You are correct on all counts. Toothpick works fine, just make sure a piece doesn't break free and jam in the movement. And yes, I am referring to the arm at the 11 o'clock position and the tip of it when I say 1mm or so. Place your toothpick on the balance cock and gently slide the arm in the CCW direction, if you move it too far, you can always move it back. Without a timer, it's anyone's guess how far equals to how much of a rate change, anything less than 20 seconds per day accuracy is great, the ETA specs are no better than this for a correctly serviced and oiled and adjusted movement. Your welcome

If you move the arm CCW, the arrow shaped one on the balance cock on the top of the picture, you can slow the rate down. DO NOT go anywhere near the stud or regulator arms that you see the hairspring attached and passing through, the two arms that stick out past the balance cock at the 4 and 2 o'clock positions in your picture, touch them and most likely you will damage something. Make sure to only move the arm about 1mm, wind the watches fully and set them and check your results. If you have a stiff enough cannon pinion, you can easily stop the movement from running, in effect hacking it, by holding pressure on the crown in the CCW direction in the winding position. This way you can synchronize the seconds hand and check your results easier. Without a timer it's really hit and miss, and can be frustrating to try and adjust them. If you do have a watchmaker locally, that is your best value.

I like this one, have never seen it before, no problem in duplicating this with Super Lume. It would certainly stand out...

Very nice, I would like to see a glow picture as a comparison to our super lume.

Here are the pics of the blue glow super luminova, this is Toad's watch. I like the blue glow, it's a nice change:

Thanks everyone for the feedback. Actually the owner of this dial is not in Canada, the USA, or the EU, he's in Asia...half way around the world from my location.

Good work, thanks so much for keeping RWG the best and most trusted site around. We all appreciate the many hours spent monitoring the forum, especially when your not being paid for your time.

Full lume with Genuine Super Luminova Blue Glow, including a new pearl. The "Blue Glow" is really noticeable in this comparison, on the left is a FM Crazy Hours with C1/C3 mix, then the DSSD with BG lume, and on the right is a Fiddy with pure C3.

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Very nice, thanks for this.

Nice comparison, I'll take the smaller one any day, although it's not that small, I just think the other one is really big. Big one looks a bit too clunky for my wrists.