RWG Technical

It sounds like a simple problem, could be the click spring for the mainspring gear, maybe the mainspring is broken, but that is very rare to happen...

Thank god it's out of the shop...I am so sick of seeing this watch I couldn't wait to get it out the door... It looks good on the granite and where it should be, glad I could help with the project, another great teamwork RWG job with amazing results. Enjoy and make sure that visitor from the big city today doesn't try and bring it home...he's a shady character...

I didn't shoot these with a dedicated macro, but the lens I used has a macro feature, so it does a fairly decent job. All I can say about the lume application is practice, practice, and more practice. The biggest issue is that once you start, you can't stop, if you do, there will be a break in the flow. The lume is applied freehand a drop at a time, I would guess that the large part of the bezel takes about 300-500 drops to get done, the numerals around the bezel each take about 7 or so drops per numeral, bezel alone requires about 1:30 to 2:00 hours of solid bench time, and a few stiff drinks. It's a challenge to say the least...but a lot of fun as well when you see the results.

Some PAM CG's as delivered come with terrible pins, check this one out...it's crappy, yeach First step is to drive the old pin out of the CG and throw it in the trash can where it belongs, then the CG is drilled with a new larger hole to accept the new pin. A piece of silver steel is fitted to a collet and inserted in the lathe to be machined down by hand to fit the CG. As the silver steel bar is turned down, I test fit the CG to make sure I have cut it to the correct size. Once the bar fits the upper part of the CG and the new hole I drilled, we need to make the lower part. Next up is to form the bottom part of the pin that fits into the lower part of the CG, it's quite a bit smaller as you can see at the tip where it's stepped down. Once the new pin fits the CG correctly, the bar is cut off, the ends are cut down and filled to fit flush with the CG, and finally the whole thing is polished and re-attached to the case. So from this: To this: A nice improvement. It takes about an hour to fabricate the new pin, all the turning, cutting, and fitting is done freehand, and polishing takes time to get a nice finish.

Thanks for the feedback and I am glad you like the results. It was a pleasure working with you. I think they both turned out very well. I took a few pictures before they went out...

My understanding is as follows, there are two options for Genuine ETA movements: 1. Factory sealed blister packs as shown in your post, these are normally referred to as "Swiss". These are typically 150% - 200% higher priced than the second type of ETA's described below. They are factory sealed, and serviced as delivered and the blister pack contains no air. Air causes oil to deterioriate. They are ready to be installed as received. 2. "Surplus" movements, sold in everything from "loose pack" plastic envelopes, to small plastic containers. These are Genuine ETA movements, but are typically of unknown and various origins, which is why you get some with all sorts of names on the rotors. The condition of these movements varies from pristing to a mess and in dire need of servicing. I have had some that were all gummed up and not running, simply due to age. They weren't worn out, simply in need of servicing. Many of these are "ebauches" which are sold by ETA without any mainspring barrel or balance installed. These are bought in bulk on the surplus market by the various suppliers, Ofrei, Jules Borel, Cousins, etc, in some cases there is an intermediate seller who buys up a bunch of ebauches and has them assembled and then sells them to the suppliers. Each type is "Swiss", in that they are genuine ETA movements and ETA as part of the Swatch group is a "Swiss" company. The "Swiss" designation in the first type is used because they are supplied directly from Switzerland in the sealed packs. The Surplus movements can come from anywhere in the market...

Any watchmaker can fix this, it's no different than a normal 7750, it just has no autowinder...

Bosk is correct, just buy the one with the movement already with the seconds at 12. You can't use an ETA for these modified A7750 models, the parts are not interchangeable.

There is no fix short of replacing the crown. I have seen this on a number of these, basically the sprung part of the crown that the stem is screwed into, is weak, hence the wobble... Never tried to source or install a gen one, so no idea if it can be done. As long as you can set the time and date, it should be fine, winding it places more stress on the sprung part, so you may want to limit winding...

I am glad you like it. Other than the lume I can't take any credit for the results achieved. And yes of course, you can use my pics as much as you like. She's running like a top and J is getting ready to package it up. Thanks for the feedback.

Just finished this one for none other than the esteemed Lanikai. First up is a genuine PVD coated Crown, which has 0.90mm threads and won't accept a 6497 stem. The 6497 stem has 1.20mm threads and needed to be modified to fit the gen crown. The modification consisted of cutting the stem down on the lathe, and then making new 0.90mm threads... this is the stem after it's been modified with the 0.90mm threads. With that out of the way, lets move onto the actual watch. This is my own PVD coating on the case and CG. I offer this coating on a very limited basis. I relumed the dial in my custom Tritium Mix, and the hands in a lighter mix. It is impossible to capture in the same photograph the actual colour of the dial and lume, along with the colour of the PVD. Either one looks too bright or too dark. So I have taken a few pictures at different exposures that show both the PVD colour in person, and the dial and hand lume colour. First are pics of the case so that you can see the PVD finish and colour. The following show a better rendition of what the lume looks like in person. It is not as washed out as it appears in the above pics. And by comparison here is the genuine 202A. She'll be in the mail next week R and on it's way home...

Looks great, beautiful workmanship all over.

Great to see it all finished. Glad I could help you out in a small way, and even more glad to know the cap fit correctly. She's a beauty for sure...

You contacted me on the 25 October, I sent you an answer right away, which you read at 9pm the same day, and you never got back to me with a response... Guess you didn't like my answer? Email won't work, only approved addresses get through, all others are spamed.

Wow, very impressive and well done. It's great to do your own stuff, wonderful sense of satisfaction.

Not sure how we all missed this one when it was first put up. Well done, great workmanship.

Well congradulations! That watch sat in my watch case for years, I loved the look, especially the caseback, but I just couldn't get used to wearing it. Little did I know I had a classic collector's piece in my hands... It sure has made the rounds, it's been through more hands than a hooker on payday. Enjoy.

Wow great job, well done... I restored many of Arthur's Doxa's, but haven't heard from him in years...say hello for me.

But are these box and papers good enough to be able to fool someone? I thought the dealer would stamp them, and the serial number etc would have to be printed on them etc... I have to ask why more scammers don't simply buy these for their ebay scam sales, instead of saying that they don't have them...missing boxes and papers always seems to point to a fake...

Isn't the biggest giveaway the old "...I don't have the box and papers..." claim by unscrupulus sellers. So how did this scammer present in person, not only a believeable Daytona rep, he also had all the boxes and all the associated paperwork, that were of a high enough quality to fool the seller into thinking it was a genuine watch. Where did the scammer get the accessories to go along with his "fake" Daytona... It sounds a bit far fetched and somewhat unbelievable to me...I am with Dems on this one. For all we know, the seller scammed the buyer with a fake PAM.

Very nice work. I like the quality of the stiching and the finish of the edges, well done. When are you going to make the holes in it?

Wow, very nice, I felt the excitment as you were opening it up... Congrats.

Understood, whenever I can help let me know.

Very well done, and great write up. I can't wait to see more pics, thanks for this.

Wow, well done, I hope you get a few more days off... For the slack in the gear teeth, you can try to install a dial washer on the last gear, this should act as a shock absorber and prevent the hand from flopping as well as take up the slack. Great job, can't wait to see more. Thanks.