fraggle42

TD tool updated with new URL! Thanks for keeping us upto date Angus.

I watched to part way through second half turned it off and went to bed. Boring game.

Toro is (AFAIK) the only dealer who regularily posts in these forums, but having said that, my last watch from him had a movement that was that damaged it had to be swapped and I got no response from him. None of them are perfect, or even good, I bought a Tudor BB from Andrew, the early buyers were promised a replacement pearl as the one that went out with the watch wasn't brilliant. It hasn't turned up. I would suggest using the M2M sales board and ONLY buy from trusted, long term members.

Trust me, it shows you've been reading and compared to the usual noob you're a year ahead of them already! Did the CC company say they wouldn't make the payment? I've not had that problem but have read others say the same thing and it seems in most cases you need to phone the CC company and tell them that you are aware of the reputation WU has and you still want to make the payment. It seems that does it. What the situation would then be if you needed to make a claim through the CC company I haven't got a clue, would be an interesting exercise in "reading the small print" I guess.

Cavitation bubbles like to start at imperfections / minute cracks / valleys in the material, and as such an ideal place for them to form is where the rubber seal contacts the case, which is where you really don't want minute bubbles to form, when they form they'll push the rubber away from the metal case, and when they collapse they'll create a shock wave pushing the surrounding water away, further under the rubber seal. I doubt a low powered US cleaner hs the power to overcome the rubber seal unless it was damaged or the back / crowns weren't tight though. Another place would be the seal around the crystal, and imperfections in any paint on the bezel.

One could guess that a rep movement wouldn't replicate all the small details such as this "Push" writing, just doing the maker and model numbers and symbols (like ETA reps). If it were me I'd assume that it is the same, and take it slowly and gently. If things aren't moving with the pressure you would expect to apply to a stem release pusher, don't force it.

The question is, do you separate them and only go out with one watch at a time, or wear on on each wrist and keep them happy together?

Have you considered paying via WU using a credit card? That should offer the protection of paying via credit card (who are actually fair when it comes to arbitration unlike PayPal who seem to decide a case in the few seconds it takes to start another game of Forza) and allow you to pay to a wider range of TDs who accept WU.

Hideous and scratches on the right side of the right watches bezel. Careless! (Buying it and scratching it!)

The link in my sig is an app that has all the dealers current websites.

Yes, I would say thats definitely the least risky way to investigate. There doesn't seem to be any jewels in that piece, so hopefully nothing will "ping" and go flying when you remove it!

I doubt that their first (or middle, or last) name is the rolex crown, no matter how much Prince wants to be known as some wierd squiggle

Ah, I had inferred that you meant a direct bank transfer when you mentioned sending cash. Sadly it's just the way it seems to be now, too many idiots have screwed up loads of dealers PP accounts so we're left with WU. Fat Panda is experimenting with other payment options (probationary dealer at the other RWG) but it's my guess that for any method where the buyer can complain and grab the cash back easily, it will be abused and dropped.

+1 You should be able to find a dealer that sells the Noob version you want and that accepts WU.

I've read that the right hand step (to the right of the 'DM' in this one) is curved on gens (and some fakes) and straight on fakes. <edit> And looking closely at the second picture, I see that it is there and I missed it the first time around!

I've removed the tube from a case once with a Torx bit that just fitted inside. Worth a try if you can find one that just fits inside with a bit of help (gently tap it in).

<saves quote to use as the comment in the next PayPal payment to AJ>

Here's the top of the broken tube, in red. (at least thats what it looks like to me)

The crown and stem look fine. The tube has snapped in half. Half is still in the crown, half is in the case. Getting the part out of the case will be easy, getting it out of the crown will be damn hard. Can't use an EasyOut as you would need a hollow one exactly the same ID and OD as the tube. What I would try is gripping the main PVD body of the crown in a vise (wrap it in lots of layers of tape to protect it) and then get a very small screwdriver (a disposable one cause this will wreck it) and then with a very small hammer, put the screwdriver on the snapped off tube in the crown angled at 45 degrees and tap it so as to rotate the tube counter clockwise. With luck it will start to rotate and once it's started it'll be a doddle to get out the rest of the way.

Not so much on this forum, but you frequently get people replying saying that "XYZ" model from TD A.N.Other is better, or "those hands look nothing like gen" and whilst these comments aren't made with the intention of being directed at those particular QC pics, the noob doesn't know that and may take them that way. It would be far better if said noob made a post before purchase saying they were thinking about buying so and so watch. Thats the time and place where they need the above kind of comments.

The tube can only be seen when the crown is unscrewed, so I wouldn't worry that a replacement tube isn't PVD coloured. If you really want it black, as it cannot be touched, the black doesn't need to be tough so enamel paint will do. Does it still run? Does the crown still wind / alter the date / alter the time? Whats not working?

Here ya go, they're only quick pics taken by myself, so forgive the crappy quality! Pam 399 Pam 389 Vintage Omega Skeletonised (approx 50mm) Pam 389 and TC Rolex Caddell P.S. If anyone is thinking my wrist looks strange, it was broken and not set properly and it's healed offset, the hand is about ~1cm lower than where it should be when I look at my forearm and hand from the side

Have you tried to prise out that black plastic plug?