Davey

Yeah it does look a bit washed out in that shot, maybe the camera moved ever so slightly? I assume your not in AF mode because that cocks it all up

Here are some examples I've just snapped: Sorry about the grainyness, didnt have a chance to setup some good lighting so the ISO is a bit high.

Still Ring O Bells, I drove past the pub last week and it looked like they had closed down *BUT* I neglected to notice the sign outside:

Sometimes its fair; for example if someone buys from the same country they are basically getting the watch without the risk and most likely next day!

There are loads of examples of HDR images here: http://www.flickr.com/groups/hdr/pool/ Here is a site that compares standard with hdr: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/hdr.shtml I've got a product called photo matix to create 48bit HDR images and then render them to 8bit jpegs, this site kind of explains a bit about it: http://www.vanilladays.com/hdr-guide/

Have any of you guys tried out HDR? You basically take 3 or more photos at different exposures making sure there is one original reference photo in the middle.. you then use a HDR plug-in to merge the images together to give an impression of "real" depth.. I've been playing around with this recently and the results are staggering! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_dynamic_range_imaging

At present I'm wearing my Silix Blue Airking But hopefully tomorrow I'll get my Daytona 6264 PN back and will proceeed to wear it for a few weeks

Clearly a replica.. Bad engraving on the clasp, still got the blue sticky back plastic, and the "chrono" is just Day/Date... Cheap $50 tat!

A few of my faves TT GMT Master DRSD Tag Carrera Chrono Yachtmaster Rolesium Explorer II Airking Explorer I (Vintage) Breitling Emergency Pepsi GMT Master

Please note slight change of location

The Nickel, swiss built 2892-A2 movement is about 250 bucks, so you could by one from an AD to be sure

And dont forget boys and girls the later models have different guards so dont go mental on your 2000+ watches

99% of ETAS are chinese built but NOT copies.. ETA have authorised factories in China.

Whats on your wrist on this fine Monday? Today I'm sporting a vintage Explorer I

Just because two watches have the same movement it doesnt mean the dials will be interchangeable.. Some of the more accurate replicas have the date window in the correct position which is about 3mm more central than an ETA, so they use a date overlay that budges it along to the center.. obviously if you have one dial with the accurate date window position and one with an ETA position the date wheels cant be swapped

Can I ask, where did you get that from??

The rest of the replica is pretty inaccurate though I've got one here, its kind of a cross between a regular Emergency and an Emergency Mission:

Sorry to break this too you, but the real thing has them round that way too..

If you havent got any Rodico then all I can say is get some now perfect for re-locating the piece of loom, and a thin slow setting glue..

Why bother? Just buy from trusted dealers/members?

If you want simplicity, what about an AirKing?

Holy mother of Jesus.. I cant quite decide if that is worse than the Infamous SLR Tag!

Basics: Hand stack: (from the bottom) Hour, GMT, Minute, Seconds. Bezel: Should rotate both directions and feel smooth. Crown: Should be smaller than the submariner and there should be no trip-lock. Crown Guards: Square'er than the submariner and almost flush with the end of the crown. Clasp: Same as the oyster clasp on the submariner but about 10mm shorter.

Depends which version you look at.. The one I had from King had pins and the HE Valve was above 10'.. There are so many variations of this model.