Davey

I plan to also organise a Southern Meet at the same place as last time, but that will be later in the summer when the weather is good

Some DateJusts have the polished center links to, just depends on the model in question.

1603_1, 6922_1 (faux chrono), 6502_1 are what you will find in just about every cheap Rolex copy I've come accross.. I have to say the 1603_1 is a rather good movement for the money, its pretty accurate and has a nice "feel" when winding.. From what I can tell its basically a Miyota copy..

Totally fantasy but that really does look quite cool! I might have to see if I can source one (through a slightly more reliable dealer though )..

Thats not really a question.. Well its a question but its not been thought out.. Obviously (as above) accuracy wise the Quartz is far superior.

Did you do the guards or did they come like that from P.T, if they came from P.T. thats one of my creations I believe

Asian Faux chrono movement'ed P.O.S...

Cheers! God I've still got projects I hadnt finished last time I was here!

Oh yeah, and I'm thinking about organising another southern UK meet

Whats this RWG Money and how to I claim it?

As above! This is very common, and a jewellers with a work shop will be able to fix it in a few minutes

Thought I'd pop on and say hello, I've not been around for bloody agess! We've been out of the country for a while exploring and the rest of the time I've been up to my eye balls in work, cars and watches... I see the RWG v's RWG fued is still hot! What have I missed?

All replicas have flaws which can be spotted.. BUT you most remember to spot it people must be "in the know", generally you will find even owners of the originals will not be able to spot a decent fake as they have no reason to know about the flaws.. But you'll find avid genuine collectors, watch smiths (who see a lot of genuines) and other replica collectors will spot a fake no matter how good it is.

Fake & no chrono function.

Look for Bufflex satinizing wheels.. http://www.clockspares.net/detail.asp?id=8841 I use these and get a perfect finish..

Start with a 1mm carbid bit, then move onto a 1.2mm.. When your done use a 1.4 or 1.5mm bit to bevel the edge of the hole.

If your on a budget: Spring bar tool. Universal Case opener (JAXA style). Set of screw drivers. Loupe. Tweezers. Hand Setting tool. A box of Rodico and Pegwood is also useful!

I've got a GORGEOUS <cough> red/white dial for a 7750 vintage Paul Newman.. Black/white and white/black just looks so much better than the other offerings.

I have a similar Paul Newman with the same crown, I'm no expert on Daytonas but I'm pretty sure they should have the larger crown.. Mines got a dead movement so not really fused what it looks like at the moment but when the movement is sorted I am going to fit a Large crown and tube. Judging by the case and sub-dial hands (they are too fat).. Yours came from the same place as mine..

Number 6 looks to be inline with the center pin, but 9 isnt and the 12 marker is slightly off center

Well said R.T. King drop ships like most other dealers and has no Quality control over what is sent to her customers, she is also always willing to help resolve a problem.

If you dont mind me asking how much did you pay for it?? without sounding harsh it looks like a cheap rep and with the low end reps you do get some pretty grotty quality control issues. @RT: Every Rolex rep I've seen the markers are glued *BUT* they have little pins that go into the dial, its normaly the holes in the dial that have been drilled [censored], you can fix this by removing the pins and just glueing the marker, but it will probably fall off overtime.

Get some PTFE based spray lubricant, GT40 is good.. Give it a good squirt, move the links around for a while, clean it off with a little soapy water and it should feel 100 times better.

Interesting, now I've drawn lines it looks like the printing might be slanted.

9 and 6 are both wonky.