Rolexman

Gen dials don't fit without modding unfortunately

Come on Red. This is nothing like you. Posting a thread and not returning to it

Sweet! I wish they came out with a leather of regular rubber strap so I could use the buckle for an army green nylon Thanks for sharing these amazing pictures!

You need 2 wheels? 60s /30min?

Very well put! I believe myself to be a skilled watchmaker and a mediocre aesthetic modder. Due to a strong self reflection and the fact I have a day time job I choose not to offer my services to this forum (nor anywhere else). I only work on my own watches. With a large demand it is easy to screw up. You also need to be a superbe project manager to succeed over time

First slide rule. Than dial and movement. The navi is not a front loader. You can install the crystal, bezel and slide rule the best all at once, as they are one piece. In that case you press the assembly on from the front.

Well. The stutter is more likely not from the tilting pinion but from the chronograph second wheel tension spring. Can your remove the movement and hands yourself? If so I will lead you through the proces step by step with pictures and all. No need to switch to Swiss. I'm in the mood to do a write up Let me know.

Update. 268 is coming. http://etatw2011.com/Product_Show.asp?ID=7414

Hmmm that doesn't really sound like a member who enjoys this board.

The total watch isn't worth more than $50 new. So I would just keep if for spare parts or practice as it is a cheap Chinese version. Every penny you put into fixing it is a waste. Safe some money and buy a nice super rep instead.

You're welcome. Post pics when you get it.

V2 is best version.

No. A shot of the rotor and bearing.

Are you talking about the Steelfish, Heritage or Abyss?

Don't push it on!!! The rotor and bearing are probably press fitted and you will disform the rotor or worse damage the auto wind bridge. From the pics it seems the bearing has "saw" teeth, which indicates the press fit system. Although the ring indicates a "twist-lock" system. Best thing to do is remove the bearing and floating bearing ring. It is hold down by one screw. Than make a new close up pic with rotor and bearing. Don't send it back. If you can't fix it the best thing is to ask for a new rotor. Mark.

Cool. Never knew these babies were so difficult to change. Thanks for the nice tutorial!

Thanks. Let's hope Archie can get them!

Cool! I have no idea? Where would one find such code?

Not true. I have a $10 Submariner with 3 rubber seals in the crown like a gen trip-lock. Case back, crystal all seal like they should. Water resistant up to 6 bar (maybe more but my machine only goes to 6 bar). But that doesn't matter because not much of us go deeper than 60m It all depends on the factory that makes the watch, but in my experience most replica's are made really well when it comes to WR. The Tag Aquaracer has double pusher seals like the gen and also the Breitling Abyss is sealed to the max! The problem once again is Quality Check. Factory workers that don't screw down the case back properly or crystals that are pressed in tilted etc.

I'm a leech extraordinaire @ RepGeek.

You're welcome mate. It's always nice to know if someone appreciates your respons Check the account settings for advanced email notifiers.

You are welcome. What is it with some members. Jeez...

It's simple. A well serviced and adjusted movement wins it every time from a non-serviced one. No matter if it's Asian, Russian, German etc. I serviced a lot of movements over the years and here is my opinion. The ETA clones are on par in many aspects with the Swiss version. Sure some finishing is less and it is harder to work on and adjust for a watchmaker but in terms of reliability imo they are the same: the design is the exact same. A non-serviced and dirty Swiss movement is as unreliable as an Asian clone. And that is the problem with our reps. It is a role of the dice because you never know, Swiss or Asian, if you get a clean and well oiled movement. Sometimes you do, but most of the time you don't. Especially when you choose a Swiss ETA version because big chance you get an old stock. The clones are all brand new movements. PS: All movement services performed by dealers are highly questionable. They often cut corners to make an extra buck. You're better off buying a rep with a movement of your choice and have it serviced by a trained watchmaker with credentials you can look up. There are some on the different fora.

That means water entered the case. There are 3 possible entry points: the case back, crown or crystal. One or more entry points aren't sealed correctly and therefore are allowing water to come into the case. It could be a numerous of things. Maybe a tiny amount creeped in via the crown after washing your hands, or it entered via the case back when sweating, raindrops on crystal...... You name it and it is possible. You need to get the watch to a watchmaker asap so he can remove the movement and get the moisture out. If you are lucky the watch will not die! But moisture in a mechanical watch is almost always a dead sentence.

Because it looks like crap..... Duh.