RickFlorida

You are partially incorrect about why platinum cost more than gold (when used in jewelry). Platinum is 60% heavier than gold. So if you need a wedding band that is 6mm wide, to make the same wedding band in platinum will take a lot more precious metal in weight to make the same dimensions of the ring if it were gold. The common jewelry sales person doesn't really understand this. Also, you can use cheap alloys to make gold jewelry like copper and silver. Platinum jewelry can only alloy with irridium or palladium. There is a truth to working with platinum being a pain in the ass. But it's mostly that you can't contaminate it with anything else. So Platinum jewelry work requires an entire set of dedicated tools. (Normally, we can use the same tools for gold or silver, but if you get a tiny particle of gold, silver, or copper on platinum, it will show up as a blemish when polishing.

This is something I've battle with for a few years on my cartel case 5513 build. With everything off of the case, do you get 28.2mm for the O.D. of the "case neck" where the retaining ring goes? My advice (which I learned here) purchase an entire bezel, retaining ring, and friction washer all together so that they are all designed to work with each other. This is your best hope for fitting your crystals. My problem was that my "case neck" diameter was too big so that even with high quality bezel and retaining ring sets, my crystals broke too. Because I had my Cartel case reshaped by a professional to look like a real 5513..... I went to the extreme of shaving off my case neck and creating a proper case neck diameter that is to be silver soldered onto the case. (I'm a jeweler on the side and I've worked in a machine shop so I'm able to do it). No one else here would probably do this and just buy another case. I don't have money for a nice 5513 case. This brings me to another frustration. WHY THE HELL IS NO ONE 3D PRINTING 5513 CASES? You could 3D print a case using material jetting technology.

Hello, Can someone please tell me a brand of lacquer spray (matte) that can be used to make newly printed dials look vintage like in the Submariner builds? I know it's clear in color but not sure what brands or types you guys are actually using. Thank you,

So I was thinking the other day.... Why in heaven's name hasn't China cloned an old school Pavoni manual espresso machine? They have successfully cloned many other simple machines that have been around a long time and seeing that broken old Pavoni's are 600 dollars..... why the hell have they not thought of this yet? China usually loves to clone simple machines. For example, they have a perfect clone of the old small centrifugal casting machines that dentists use to use and that jewelers use as well. I own one of them and it works just as good as the original ones that came from Buffalo New York 40 years ago. The point is... of all the factories in China, how in the world has one of them not thought of cloning some bad ass old Pavoni manual lever espresso machines?

Ok thank you.

Thank you for this workflow. What kind of alcohol? I would think you mean denatured alcohol. But are you talking about on sapphire crystals? I would be worried of alcohol on plexi crystals.

God you are so lucky. You live in Australia, and you probably get much quicker shipping times from China. Count your blessings my friend.

Don't want to share secrets, huh? I'd like to add that what I now believe the approach with a microfiber cloth or cleaning the crystal in general is probably this.... (feel free to add anything). Cleaning is a stage process. 1.First stage, is to use a ultra soft microfiber cloth to rub all of the smudges out. I will experiment with the acrylic safe spray to see if I get it really clean. 2.Second stage is that any dust/lint that remains or newly falls onto the crystal or case can be blown away with air.

Hi, Everyone. I have asked and searched in the past about tricks on getting plastic crystals clean when casing up your watch and some were really good but were pretty spread out across the whole internet realm or buried deep in specific projects here. I thought maybe people might be willing to share tips on how to remove smudges, finger prints, and dust from crystals before casing up a watch. I'll start with what I've learned as a beginner. I asked a professional watchmaker (Vanessa of CW21 in Southern California and she simply said she uses a "special microfiber cloth that I wash without fabric softener". I wish I knew what brand but I suppose if the microfiber is washable, and good enough for original rolex plastic crystals, would anyone know which one she probalby uses? Now that is interesting. Here I am thinking I have to purchase ultra soft, brand new microfibers and then delicately use it within seconds of opening it and hope for the best. After she told me this my new approach will be that you can aggressively "rub out" smudges and dust with a microfiber cloth and then simply use a squeeze blower or air canister to blow of any dust that falls on the crystal after you rubbed the hell out of it with the cloth. Does this strategy seem correct? I see pictures of extremely clean, shiny looking crystals and I marvel at out that comes to be. There is also plastic safe cleaning spray that is for acrylic. I think that would be good to get the streaky clean look and combine this with the correct microfiber cloth. Anyone else have tips?

You have my favorite 5513 build on this whole forum. You nailed the right amount of age on the dial, in my opinion. Wish I can pay you to do my Helenarou dial.

Then I wonder if the 5 or 6 different factories that are cranking out 2836's and 2824's were given the tooling by ETA on loan or did they really make all of their own tooling and dies? I know the Yuki 3135 clone is a different ballgame as it is made in small batches, more by hand in a small shop or factory I assume. But can't another small shop start making 1570's? 3d printing directly in metal is not accurate enough yet but it will be soon. At that time, if we get the specs of each part, or at least the some of the parts... we can begin making them.

Mystery solved. I incorrectly assumed you leave the oscillating weight off when placing the movement on these holders but I tried placing the weight inside the holder and it's a perfect fit. So apparently, when you remove a weight from the movement to remove from case, you have to install the weight back onto the movement to make it fit in these holders properly.

You mean the 2824 or 2836 would be less complicated to reproduce than a 1520/70? I'm an idiot about watch making but the 1520/70 does not appear more complicated than a 2824 or 2836 but I could be wrong.

I kind of get why there is a clone 3135 since for "new sales" in the rep world, having a clone 3135 makes sense for selling complete rep. watches. However, if there is no demand for clone 1520 or 1570 movements or at least parts of them... then why is there such a demand for 2836 or 2824 clones to such a point that we now have at least 5 or 6 different factories churning them out like there is no tomorrow. The 2836 is just about as old and outdated as a 1570 to me.

That tool by horotec says it's for the 2824. Since the 2836 is thicker, would that holder still fit right with 2836?

With laser cutting, 3d Printing, high resolution scanning, and I would think Patents expiring on the 1520 and 1570 Movements... I don't understand why we don't have a clone of those movements yet. Why do I see more and more 2824 and 2836 clones popping up but we have no 1570 or 1520 movements? There are like 5 or 6 different factories now making exact ETA 2824 or 2836 clones. Is that because ETA helped them by giving them the tooling? There would be a huge market for aftermarket 1570 movement parts.

With laser cutting, 3d Printing, high resolution scanning, and I would think Patents expiring on the 1520 and 1570 Movements... I don't understand why we don't have a clone of those movements yet. Why do I see more and more 2824 and 2836 clones popping up but we have no 1570 or 1520 movements? There are like 5 or 6 different factories now making exact ETA 2824 or 2836 clones. Is that because ETA helped them by giving them the tooling?

Thank you. What I mean what I say it pivots/tilts is that the movement does not sit inside the the "seat" of the movement holder so any pressure on the movement from the top and it will tilt. I measured the inside "seat" or lip which is 25.5 which i thought would be correct. What is interesting is that on the internet, I've only seen photos of people using the adjustable/universal holders on these movements and sometimes the plastic movement cases they ship in. So I wonder if maybe there isn't any movement holder that fits them? But for 20 dollars, you can get a movement holder that the 1570 rolex fits snug as [censored] in. The green one you sent a link to looks great and much more promising for a "snug" fit so I'll try that one. Thank you.

I forgot to mention that I don't have the oscillating weight on the movement when I place it in the holder, is that why it doesn't fit right? I assumed since you remove the weight when you remove it from the case you leave it off which to me would make it more flat and even for the movement holder?

Hello everyone. You guys got me hooked on watch tinkering. A year after having RoloJack shape me a nice Tudor sub I'm now starting to get my own hands dirty. I have a question about finding a good tool to hold a 2836 or 2846 ETA movement while you work on it. I like the specific ones I see people use online that fit each movement. So when I saw this used Bergeon 11.5 Lignes sized one I thougth, "Gee, this means my movement will drop right in and fit snug like you see when people work on the rolex movements in their specific holders". Wrong! When I drop my ETA 2846 in mine, it barely rests flat and pivots easily. But being a complete newbie, maybe there is something I don't know. Since the movement has to stay flat when you press hands on or place force to snap on the dial clamps... I need a better solution. I'm reluctant to purchase the one size fits all movement holders because I'm afraid I'll smash or scratch the movement trying to adjust. I see some ebay listing for movement holder that is specifically listed for the 2836 (doesn't say 11.5 lingnes). Does this mean it would fit more snug? I was going to post a link to the Ebay listing but I was afraid that would break a rule. They are from China, and 16 dollars. thanks for any info or advice.

OK, thank you very much. I was thinking that putting them all at 12 so that they are in same position when installing new ones would be a good idea so thanks for confirming.

Hello everyone, Happy New Year, hope everyone is well. When removing and replacing hands on an ETA 2846 that does not have a calendar wheel to worry about, is there a certain time setting that the three hands should be in to make it easier for removal and replacing? In other words, are there any potential problems that could happen if I don't have the hands in a certain setting before removal and replacing? I assume it's more about access to the hands with the tools but being new to automatic movements I thought I'd better ask before attempting. Thank you.

Hello. I wasn't exactly sure where to post this. Has anyone seen one of these ladies cuffs for sale (replica)? It's called the Hermes "eclipse" bracelet. I want to buy one in either silver or gold color. I tried reaching out to KB, figuring he might know but didn't hear back. I know there is at least one factory in China that makes these because I found the wholesale factory online that makes them. I'm pretty new to the game of replica goods other than our watch parts so my only known source is Aliexpress (which sucks), and KB. Thanks, rick

Great idea, thank you.

That's amazing that I didn't know this. Very interesting? For how many years did they come out like this or did it occur sporadically?