RickFlorida

Don't want to share secrets, huh? I'd like to add that what I now believe the approach with a microfiber cloth or cleaning the crystal in general is probably this.... (feel free to add anything). Cleaning is a stage process. 1.First stage, is to use a ultra soft microfiber cloth to rub all of the smudges out. I will experiment with the acrylic safe spray to see if I get it really clean. 2.Second stage is that any dust/lint that remains or newly falls onto the crystal or case can be blown away with air.

Hi, Everyone. I have asked and searched in the past about tricks on getting plastic crystals clean when casing up your watch and some were really good but were pretty spread out across the whole internet realm or buried deep in specific projects here. I thought maybe people might be willing to share tips on how to remove smudges, finger prints, and dust from crystals before casing up a watch. I'll start with what I've learned as a beginner. I asked a professional watchmaker (Vanessa of CW21 in Southern California and she simply said she uses a "special microfiber cloth that I wash without fabric softener". I wish I knew what brand but I suppose if the microfiber is washable, and good enough for original rolex plastic crystals, would anyone know which one she probalby uses? Now that is interesting. Here I am thinking I have to purchase ultra soft, brand new microfibers and then delicately use it within seconds of opening it and hope for the best. After she told me this my new approach will be that you can aggressively "rub out" smudges and dust with a microfiber cloth and then simply use a squeeze blower or air canister to blow of any dust that falls on the crystal after you rubbed the hell out of it with the cloth. Does this strategy seem correct? I see pictures of extremely clean, shiny looking crystals and I marvel at out that comes to be. There is also plastic safe cleaning spray that is for acrylic. I think that would be good to get the streaky clean look and combine this with the correct microfiber cloth. Anyone else have tips?

You have my favorite 5513 build on this whole forum. You nailed the right amount of age on the dial, in my opinion. Wish I can pay you to do my Helenarou dial.

Then I wonder if the 5 or 6 different factories that are cranking out 2836's and 2824's were given the tooling by ETA on loan or did they really make all of their own tooling and dies? I know the Yuki 3135 clone is a different ballgame as it is made in small batches, more by hand in a small shop or factory I assume. But can't another small shop start making 1570's? 3d printing directly in metal is not accurate enough yet but it will be soon. At that time, if we get the specs of each part, or at least the some of the parts... we can begin making them.

Mystery solved. I incorrectly assumed you leave the oscillating weight off when placing the movement on these holders but I tried placing the weight inside the holder and it's a perfect fit. So apparently, when you remove a weight from the movement to remove from case, you have to install the weight back onto the movement to make it fit in these holders properly.

You mean the 2824 or 2836 would be less complicated to reproduce than a 1520/70? I'm an idiot about watch making but the 1520/70 does not appear more complicated than a 2824 or 2836 but I could be wrong.

I kind of get why there is a clone 3135 since for "new sales" in the rep world, having a clone 3135 makes sense for selling complete rep. watches. However, if there is no demand for clone 1520 or 1570 movements or at least parts of them... then why is there such a demand for 2836 or 2824 clones to such a point that we now have at least 5 or 6 different factories churning them out like there is no tomorrow. The 2836 is just about as old and outdated as a 1570 to me.

That tool by horotec says it's for the 2824. Since the 2836 is thicker, would that holder still fit right with 2836?

With laser cutting, 3d Printing, high resolution scanning, and I would think Patents expiring on the 1520 and 1570 Movements... I don't understand why we don't have a clone of those movements yet. Why do I see more and more 2824 and 2836 clones popping up but we have no 1570 or 1520 movements? There are like 5 or 6 different factories now making exact ETA 2824 or 2836 clones. Is that because ETA helped them by giving them the tooling? There would be a huge market for aftermarket 1570 movement parts.

With laser cutting, 3d Printing, high resolution scanning, and I would think Patents expiring on the 1520 and 1570 Movements... I don't understand why we don't have a clone of those movements yet. Why do I see more and more 2824 and 2836 clones popping up but we have no 1570 or 1520 movements? There are like 5 or 6 different factories now making exact ETA 2824 or 2836 clones. Is that because ETA helped them by giving them the tooling?

Thank you. What I mean what I say it pivots/tilts is that the movement does not sit inside the the "seat" of the movement holder so any pressure on the movement from the top and it will tilt. I measured the inside "seat" or lip which is 25.5 which i thought would be correct. What is interesting is that on the internet, I've only seen photos of people using the adjustable/universal holders on these movements and sometimes the plastic movement cases they ship in. So I wonder if maybe there isn't any movement holder that fits them? But for 20 dollars, you can get a movement holder that the 1570 rolex fits snug as [censored] in. The green one you sent a link to looks great and much more promising for a "snug" fit so I'll try that one. Thank you.

I forgot to mention that I don't have the oscillating weight on the movement when I place it in the holder, is that why it doesn't fit right? I assumed since you remove the weight when you remove it from the case you leave it off which to me would make it more flat and even for the movement holder?

Hello everyone. You guys got me hooked on watch tinkering. A year after having RoloJack shape me a nice Tudor sub I'm now starting to get my own hands dirty. I have a question about finding a good tool to hold a 2836 or 2846 ETA movement while you work on it. I like the specific ones I see people use online that fit each movement. So when I saw this used Bergeon 11.5 Lignes sized one I thougth, "Gee, this means my movement will drop right in and fit snug like you see when people work on the rolex movements in their specific holders". Wrong! When I drop my ETA 2846 in mine, it barely rests flat and pivots easily. But being a complete newbie, maybe there is something I don't know. Since the movement has to stay flat when you press hands on or place force to snap on the dial clamps... I need a better solution. I'm reluctant to purchase the one size fits all movement holders because I'm afraid I'll smash or scratch the movement trying to adjust. I see some ebay listing for movement holder that is specifically listed for the 2836 (doesn't say 11.5 lingnes). Does this mean it would fit more snug? I was going to post a link to the Ebay listing but I was afraid that would break a rule. They are from China, and 16 dollars. thanks for any info or advice.

OK, thank you very much. I was thinking that putting them all at 12 so that they are in same position when installing new ones would be a good idea so thanks for confirming.

Hello everyone, Happy New Year, hope everyone is well. When removing and replacing hands on an ETA 2846 that does not have a calendar wheel to worry about, is there a certain time setting that the three hands should be in to make it easier for removal and replacing? In other words, are there any potential problems that could happen if I don't have the hands in a certain setting before removal and replacing? I assume it's more about access to the hands with the tools but being new to automatic movements I thought I'd better ask before attempting. Thank you.

Hello. I wasn't exactly sure where to post this. Has anyone seen one of these ladies cuffs for sale (replica)? It's called the Hermes "eclipse" bracelet. I want to buy one in either silver or gold color. I tried reaching out to KB, figuring he might know but didn't hear back. I know there is at least one factory in China that makes these because I found the wholesale factory online that makes them. I'm pretty new to the game of replica goods other than our watch parts so my only known source is Aliexpress (which sucks), and KB. Thanks, rick

Great idea, thank you.

That's amazing that I didn't know this. Very interesting? For how many years did they come out like this or did it occur sporadically?

Thank you! He seems quick to respond and very nice. And good prices so I will probably just order from him. Thanks. The crown on that dial...... is it supposed to have an uneven spike on the crown?

After more research, I see that people saying HR? So I need to email rouhelena@yahoo.com Is this person still active and how long does it take once I order?

I'm pretty happy with my Yuki dial but after reading and learning more and more, I realized the 12 O'Clock marker on Yuki's are a little shorter and fatter than original dials. So I was curious, how could I find a better ETA fitting 5513 Dial? (I am capable of vintagizing it myself).

Not a bad idea. But aren't they not hollow and isn't there an incorrect line that goes across them?

I'm going to assume the lack of replies means there are no better alternative endlinks than the originals. So... I have one solution that I should I should share.... I realize that if you try to just buy a WSO endlink and knock out the thin tubes, (that came out by accident anyways for me), you can't really add thicker walled tubes without changing how far back the tubes sit inside the endlink. Since these endlinks do have a great fitting overall for the bracelets and the midcase.... The best solution is to simply clean the hell out of the inside of the endlinks when you get them, and then take what we call in America, "Black Flux" which is for stainless steel. Then take a 4 small pieces of quality solder that has some silver in it or there are some other solder types for stainless steel, and then solder those pieces onto both side of each of the inner tubes. This will add more strength to the tubes because as I mentioned, they don't seem to be soldered onto the endlinks really at all to me. I believe they are weakly "spot welded" maybe with a small laser welder. YOu will need to use high heat from a gas torch of some type. Propane will work. You need to wear magnification or just have really good eyes and watch the inner tubes and make sure that you don't add too much heat and collapse the tubes. Maybe I just got a bad batch or something. But if all WSO endlinks are constructed like mine... you will want to beef it up before you drop your watch and destroy the movement and crystal or just lose the whole watch.

Hello everyone. After only reinstalling my WSO 580 endlinks for a second time, (every now and then I'll take my Nato off and put on my oyster bracelet), one of the inner tubes that is spot welded or soldered inside the endlink broke off. Upon this happening, I inspected the tubes that are inside of these endlinks and I immediately noticed they are incredibly thin and poorly made. They must be less than .4 mm in wall thickness and they have partial tears in them. (out of all 4 of them (there are two in each endlink), it seems 2 or 3 of them seem ready to come off). Not only do those tubes look weak just by themselves, but I can't even tell if these are spot welded or soldered onto the endlink because I can't even find any joining material at all. i could remove the remaining ones and try to make my own and solder them in properly (I make jewelry as a hobby). But does anyone know of swiss made or any higher grade aftermarket endlinks for fat bar submariner oyster bracelets?

Ahhh. Thank you. So I screwed up and put the tension washer on top of bezel but under insert. I am to simply place the tension washer on top of retaining ring and then place bezel and then insert. Wow, am I the only idiot who misplaced the tension washer?