RickFlorida

Yeah, they sell X-ray machines for testing the alloy composition of gold, platinum, etc. Jewelry. When you say "press fit" for the 5517 lug bars.... where they really only press fit in and not brazed/soldered in?

I'm good, Adrian will sell me a spare. It's the best way to know it will fit his crown.

If I have an Athaya 702 crown and tube, and I need to have a spare tube.... is the tube a direct replacement of other aftermarket or gen. 702 crown tubes? I ask because I want to get a spare crown tube. When I search, I only see 24-700 or 703 from WSO for example. I don't see 702 after market crown tubes... is that because for the crown tube you only need 24-700? Thanks for any info.

Awesome!

Thank you kind sir! I'm doing some repairs on a case so I thought I better check the height. 1 to 1.25mm sounds right then, I was just worried they were supposed to be higher to give enough surface area mating between crystal and neck. I guess it only takes a little bit to make a good fit. Thanks again.

If no one had a gen. 5513 naked mid case to measure, just a cartel 5513 mid case neck height should be close enough. I would appreciate it.

Hello. I know the approx. outer diameter of the 5513 case neck is 28.2mm But does anyone know what the height of the case neck is in mm? In other words, how much of the neck goes into the crystal? Thank you.

Great details! I personally like silicone grease over Vaseline. Silicone grease seems whiter or should I say perfectly clear whereas some vaselines have or develop a yellow tint which could reflect through the crystal. ( If it is between the crystal and bezel, but if you are using between just the bezel and retaining ring, then it won't matter). I use a lot of vaselines and silicone greases to maintain my pool equipment so I'm exposed to seeing this. Just my two cents.

No worries, I was just sharing in case you had the same issue I did. But sounds like a similar problem. Good luck. The key is a bezel that fits a retaining ring perfectly. So you should buy them together and like Nanuq said, you can then adjust for the crystal only.

Is the case a newer cartel? If so, it's best to buy a whole new bezel assembly. ( Retaining ring and bezel). Adjusting the tension ring does not solve a loose bezel on the newer cartel cases. But, since the mid case neck is to spec ( the bezel itself is not), replacing it works. It appears that to speed up assembly, they make or buy bezels that are a little too big, very annoying since a new bezel costs as much as the watch.

May I ask why it's necessary to epoxy it with the bezel disassembled? I'm also about to install a pearl so I was curious. I assume so you can use a good amount on the back of pearl and insert with the bottom facing up and let it dry?

If the Yuki movements are so dirty from factory, they should let us buy all the parts directly and unassembled. It would be awesome to just buy the parts we want or a complete kit. They should make 15xx movement replicas too.

Ahhh, that is way easier, thanks, Jack.

In respect to your bracelet search, I recently learned that you can hide the incorrect line on the final midlinks when you expand and fold them over to fit 2mm bars. So in other words, I'm just gonna soften the edges and use the cartel bracelet. You don't have much options without a 900 dollar gen. bracelet.

I just noticed someone said 304 stainless. So we're 1665 only 304 stainless instead of 316? That may be why cases corroded. I'm not an metal scientist but unless you are exposed to strong acids or other chemicals, I fail to believe 316 is not good enough for a watch in saltwater periodically. I believe the custom stainless in new Rolex is more for marketing.

I live in a very corrosive environment. Two blocks from ocean and high humidity. I do a lot of running, snorkeling, fishing, yard work..... But....I don't see much corrosion on my stainless marathon watch. I believe since I also shower or go in my pool with the watch after each of those activities, rinsing saltwater off really prevents a lot of corrosion. I wore my marathon diver for almost 10 years in that environment, and I don't see any pitting of corrosion. Maybe it takes 40 years. It's so bad where I live, all my stainless hardware out side my house has a light orange coating of rust.

Nice work. , RJ is just finishing up a 7928 build for me as well, he is amazing!

Hi, I happen to make jewelry as a hobby so I used my buffing wheel . But you could also do it with any buffing pad and use cheap polishing compound from hardware store. Just pick a fine compound, not a rough cutting compound. They make compounds for stainless steel. You could try using a Dremel, with small buffing wheel, and add the compound. But a large wheel is easier .

I'm not an expert, but what I believe is that which ever one is the matte finish, that you have to polish.....That is a Swiss made one. So it has a great fit. So Clark's and a few others sell it I believe. I bought one and the retaining ring it comes with fits the bezel perfectly. Polishing it easy enough.

The sellita 2836-2 costs 236 dollars according to Ofrei site. That's not cheap at all for old technology. That is more expensive than an ETA 2846. Sellita is jerking us around too. They should be 99 dollars I think.

Yeah, Josh always delivers. Everything should be fine.

Yeah, you have more control with hand controlled pads. I just noticed your custom endlinks. Pretty neat. Did you do that out of necessity or is that a "thing" to do now?

Ahhh, I see. Your brushing is perfect. Can you tell me what you used to make that brush work please? Brass wire wheel like so.....? https://www.riogrande.com/Product/Brass-Wire-Wheel-Brush/338224

Wow, nice! What bracelet source is this? Gen?

Oh, thanks.