RickFlorida

Thank you! He seems quick to respond and very nice. And good prices so I will probably just order from him. Thanks. The crown on that dial...... is it supposed to have an uneven spike on the crown?

After more research, I see that people saying HR? So I need to email rouhelena@yahoo.com Is this person still active and how long does it take once I order?

I'm pretty happy with my Yuki dial but after reading and learning more and more, I realized the 12 O'Clock marker on Yuki's are a little shorter and fatter than original dials. So I was curious, how could I find a better ETA fitting 5513 Dial? (I am capable of vintagizing it myself).

Not a bad idea. But aren't they not hollow and isn't there an incorrect line that goes across them?

I'm going to assume the lack of replies means there are no better alternative endlinks than the originals. So... I have one solution that I should I should share.... I realize that if you try to just buy a WSO endlink and knock out the thin tubes, (that came out by accident anyways for me), you can't really add thicker walled tubes without changing how far back the tubes sit inside the endlink. Since these endlinks do have a great fitting overall for the bracelets and the midcase.... The best solution is to simply clean the hell out of the inside of the endlinks when you get them, and then take what we call in America, "Black Flux" which is for stainless steel. Then take a 4 small pieces of quality solder that has some silver in it or there are some other solder types for stainless steel, and then solder those pieces onto both side of each of the inner tubes. This will add more strength to the tubes because as I mentioned, they don't seem to be soldered onto the endlinks really at all to me. I believe they are weakly "spot welded" maybe with a small laser welder. YOu will need to use high heat from a gas torch of some type. Propane will work. You need to wear magnification or just have really good eyes and watch the inner tubes and make sure that you don't add too much heat and collapse the tubes. Maybe I just got a bad batch or something. But if all WSO endlinks are constructed like mine... you will want to beef it up before you drop your watch and destroy the movement and crystal or just lose the whole watch.

Hello everyone. After only reinstalling my WSO 580 endlinks for a second time, (every now and then I'll take my Nato off and put on my oyster bracelet), one of the inner tubes that is spot welded or soldered inside the endlink broke off. Upon this happening, I inspected the tubes that are inside of these endlinks and I immediately noticed they are incredibly thin and poorly made. They must be less than .4 mm in wall thickness and they have partial tears in them. (out of all 4 of them (there are two in each endlink), it seems 2 or 3 of them seem ready to come off). Not only do those tubes look weak just by themselves, but I can't even tell if these are spot welded or soldered onto the endlink because I can't even find any joining material at all. i could remove the remaining ones and try to make my own and solder them in properly (I make jewelry as a hobby). But does anyone know of swiss made or any higher grade aftermarket endlinks for fat bar submariner oyster bracelets?

Ahhh. Thank you. So I screwed up and put the tension washer on top of bezel but under insert. I am to simply place the tension washer on top of retaining ring and then place bezel and then insert. Wow, am I the only idiot who misplaced the tension washer?

HI, I have a very stupid question. I want to make sure I assemble my 5513 bezel correctly since it's very loose so far. I have one of those swiss after market bezel assemblies like you get from Clarks. I know that you have to put a little bend in the tension ring to get the bezel to be tighter but I am not positive the correct way to install the tension ring. Obviously, the retaining ring goes on first over the crystal. Then do we put the bezel.... then the tension ring on top of that? Then the Insert. Am I correct and if my insert is snapping in OK, I simply must add more bend to the tension ring? I assume that since the retaining ring perfectly fits into the bezel, you DO NOT put the tension ring between them, correct? I can't find a video or detailed description of installing a 5513 or 7928 bezel. Which makes zero sense since we see a crap load of bezel videos about the newer spring/ratchet bezels. But for the 5513 that they made for 40 years and of a million watches.... no videos! LOL Thanks guys.

Yeah, they sell X-ray machines for testing the alloy composition of gold, platinum, etc. Jewelry. When you say "press fit" for the 5517 lug bars.... where they really only press fit in and not brazed/soldered in?

I'm good, Adrian will sell me a spare. It's the best way to know it will fit his crown.

If I have an Athaya 702 crown and tube, and I need to have a spare tube.... is the tube a direct replacement of other aftermarket or gen. 702 crown tubes? I ask because I want to get a spare crown tube. When I search, I only see 24-700 or 703 from WSO for example. I don't see 702 after market crown tubes... is that because for the crown tube you only need 24-700? Thanks for any info.

Awesome!

Thank you kind sir! I'm doing some repairs on a case so I thought I better check the height. 1 to 1.25mm sounds right then, I was just worried they were supposed to be higher to give enough surface area mating between crystal and neck. I guess it only takes a little bit to make a good fit. Thanks again.

If no one had a gen. 5513 naked mid case to measure, just a cartel 5513 mid case neck height should be close enough. I would appreciate it.

Hello. I know the approx. outer diameter of the 5513 case neck is 28.2mm But does anyone know what the height of the case neck is in mm? In other words, how much of the neck goes into the crystal? Thank you.

Great details! I personally like silicone grease over Vaseline. Silicone grease seems whiter or should I say perfectly clear whereas some vaselines have or develop a yellow tint which could reflect through the crystal. ( If it is between the crystal and bezel, but if you are using between just the bezel and retaining ring, then it won't matter). I use a lot of vaselines and silicone greases to maintain my pool equipment so I'm exposed to seeing this. Just my two cents.

No worries, I was just sharing in case you had the same issue I did. But sounds like a similar problem. Good luck. The key is a bezel that fits a retaining ring perfectly. So you should buy them together and like Nanuq said, you can then adjust for the crystal only.

Is the case a newer cartel? If so, it's best to buy a whole new bezel assembly. ( Retaining ring and bezel). Adjusting the tension ring does not solve a loose bezel on the newer cartel cases. But, since the mid case neck is to spec ( the bezel itself is not), replacing it works. It appears that to speed up assembly, they make or buy bezels that are a little too big, very annoying since a new bezel costs as much as the watch.

May I ask why it's necessary to epoxy it with the bezel disassembled? I'm also about to install a pearl so I was curious. I assume so you can use a good amount on the back of pearl and insert with the bottom facing up and let it dry?

If the Yuki movements are so dirty from factory, they should let us buy all the parts directly and unassembled. It would be awesome to just buy the parts we want or a complete kit. They should make 15xx movement replicas too.

Ahhh, that is way easier, thanks, Jack.

In respect to your bracelet search, I recently learned that you can hide the incorrect line on the final midlinks when you expand and fold them over to fit 2mm bars. So in other words, I'm just gonna soften the edges and use the cartel bracelet. You don't have much options without a 900 dollar gen. bracelet.

I just noticed someone said 304 stainless. So we're 1665 only 304 stainless instead of 316? That may be why cases corroded. I'm not an metal scientist but unless you are exposed to strong acids or other chemicals, I fail to believe 316 is not good enough for a watch in saltwater periodically. I believe the custom stainless in new Rolex is more for marketing.

I live in a very corrosive environment. Two blocks from ocean and high humidity. I do a lot of running, snorkeling, fishing, yard work..... But....I don't see much corrosion on my stainless marathon watch. I believe since I also shower or go in my pool with the watch after each of those activities, rinsing saltwater off really prevents a lot of corrosion. I wore my marathon diver for almost 10 years in that environment, and I don't see any pitting of corrosion. Maybe it takes 40 years. It's so bad where I live, all my stainless hardware out side my house has a light orange coating of rust.

Nice work. , RJ is just finishing up a 7928 build for me as well, he is amazing!