pompompurin

thank you guys i quite like jubilee bracelet but the watch feels too light with the jubilee bracelet on hah so a rep oyster 78360 bracelet is definitely the way to go but i am still having problems trying to find a hollow link rep oyster bracelet - seems like no one sells them anymore?

I have previously shared this on RWI and I will share it here as well - you guys seem to be the technical / OCD Rolex builders so I hope you will enjoy the pics And after waiting and researching for nearly a year trying to source the right parts... Theme of the build = a classic 14270 Rolex that has been through RSC (hence this 14270 will have lug holes AND superluminova dial and hands) Here are the ingredients - Gen 36mm Datejust 16233 E-series case (took me bloody 6 months to find one in decent condition) - Gen 36mm Datejust smooth bezel - Gen 14270/114270 Swiss Made dial (bloody rare to find) - Gen 603 crown - Gen Submariner seconds hand - JF 16610 LN minute + hour hand - JKhorological Swiss 25-295 crystal - Serviced Yuki 3135 from tickleshoes ...... still in search of a hollow link 78360 rep oyster bracelet The watch is practically gen at this point. If i pair it up with my gen 62510h bracelet, then it's visually indistinguishable to gen so here is my gen 16200 Datejust case that arrived via fedex Left case is gen 16200 datejust case; right case is a replica 16200 case for 2824-2 movement The rehaut is much wider (in terms of diameter) and less wokky on the gen 16200 datejust case Also, the lugs are thinner on gen case (even though my gen case has probably been polished before) Left case is gen 16200 datejust case; right case is a replica 16200 case for 2824-2 movement Crown height and case thickness is pretty much the same for both cases I installed the Yuki 3135 with the gen 14270 dial into the gen case first The usual ETA movement tab screws didn't fit between the gen case's side and the yuki movement, but luckily i have some spare gen-spec 3135 movement/case screws and they were thin enough to fit in between the gen case and the yuki movement Then I proceeded to install the hands, crystal, and gen smooth bezel And here is the final results (paired with my gen 62510h jubilee bracelet with 555 end links - but i am desperately in need of a rep 78360 hollow link oyster bracelet) At this moment, the watch is pretty much gen externally and there is no definitive way to tell that it is a franken or replica by just looking at it externally Lume shot! - the JF minute and hour hands have the same lume colour and brightness as the gen Rolex dial lume and gen Rolex seconds hand lume

Parts of a 5513 unfortunately for me (waiting for the tube installation tool before I could put it together) - Vietnamese 5513 case set (correct crown/stem/tube height yay but at a price) - ETA 2824-2 converted to lowbeat - Gen service bezel insert - Gen service dial - Gen 702 crown - Athaya 702 Tube - TC V2 hands - Raffles 34mm Tudor movement ring

i would 10000000000% reject by looking at the back of the case, the SEL doesn't sit right as the lug holes are drilled incorrectly. This also causes the front part of the SEL to sit pretty flush with the lugs Your picture A better Noob V7 from intime's website https://www.intime01.co/rollie/2954-submariner-116610-ln-black-ceramic-v7-1-1-noob-best-edition-sa3135.html

Excellent choice by using a Vietnamese 1665 case as a base for reshaping I only swear by Vietnamese cases for vintage builds They have the right general proportions and thickness (especially for the 1675), and they all have the correct crown/stem/tube height (unlike the Cartel / BP vintage / JKF watches which are designed to house the 2836-2 @ 2.25mm stem height or the 21j) Vietnamese cases might cost $800 each for a complete case set, but it saves me from headaches and paranoia from getting called imo I wished there were more options between the price jump of a cartel/ BP vintage / JKF and a Vietnamese case. I could already confirm that a Helenarou 5513 case is very inferior to my Vietnamese 5513 case

Thank you for the pics, i have read your awesome thread from 2012 I bought a set from jkhorological - the stock pics from jkhorological look identical to clarks and they are cheaper I will recheck the raffles seconds hand - the yuki seconds hand's circle is too far up

Thank you for your reply and the link, I have read it before but unfortunately some of the hands set from there are discontinued e.g. CWR doesn't sell them anymore (IMO the closest) and the Clarks second hand has changed into something that is ugly I agree with you that mix and match is probably the only way to go, but the problem is, even the mix and match combination is still terrible haha Clarks is supplying a different batch of sub hands nowadays - there was an old 2012 thread that compared Clarks sub hands with gen and the difference can be seen. Clarks hands back then had the a more correct-looking seconds hand. But nowadays, the seconds hand from Clarks is wrong and cannot be modified. Below is a picture of a franken 5513 with current Clarks hands (notice how the seconds hand is totally wrong): https://forum.replica-watch.info/proxy/12TxxsrMwQXI%2B07HJOYOTZTWmWy2tmcczME3AD2F/image.png Helenarou's 5513 hour hand is too long, according to the pictures i was sent by MK (i.e. the hour hand is longer than the front of the rectangular lume on the dial). The minute hands look too long as well Yuki's hour hand looks identical to the raffle hands - skinny rectangular lume plot I really hate how what's seen cannot be unseen I wish TC was still around His V3 hands were perfect in every way.. it even has tapered ends and the correct mercedes dimensions on the hour hand by the way, thank you for the jkhorological link @jackflash, the hands from there are much cheaper than clarks yet they look identical

I took my new digital caliper out and you are right, the rep jubilee's polished middle links are (a bit) vertically longer than the genuine one - this isn't noticeable under the naked eye, but it makes the replica bracelet look like it doesn't have the same 'allure' as the genuine one (especially when the rep one stretches a lot and lacks the same polish as gen) Overall, the genuine jubilee looks and feels like an expensive piece of jewelry, and the replica one does it's job - to look like a jubilee bracelet Left = gen (look at how reflective and shiny the middle links are!) Right = rep Replica jubilee's middle link's vertical length Genuine jubilee's middle link's vertical length

After hours of evaluating the best choices for sub hands... Clarks/Watchman 'Tudor' hands = seconds hand has the wrong proportions (i.e. the dot behind the seconds hand's pinion is too close), hour hand has the wrong rectangular lume proportion? the hands are a bit shorter than gen 3135 sub hands (because it seems like Tudor hands were always shorter than Rolex counterpart hands), no 3D-looking polish, poor lume? Startime 'Tudor' hands = seems like it has same problem as the Clarks hands, except the seconds hand looked improvement proportionally (i.e. the dot behind the seconds hand's pinion is further away like gen) Raffles = hour hand's rectangular lume area has skinny proportion that isn't gen-like (and commonly associated to lower-end or cheap reps), poor lume TC V2/V3 = best ETA sub hands ever made (i.e. tapered front on the seconds hand, 3D-looking polish, correct dimensions with correct rectangular lume area/location, capped pinion on v3, pointy ends, excellent lume)... but TC is gone Overall = TC hands were hands-down the best sub hands ever made - period. But now that TC stuff is pretty much discontinued, the second best seems like to be Startime? Any idea what the best available ETA Submariner hands? Have I missed out on better alternatives? Can someone please recommend me the best ETA Submariner hands out there? i have spent a long time researching and it seems like the current market for ETA Sub hands have a combination of fatal flaws Thank you!

sweet thanks for the tips! i will try that next time when I go to the hardware store

depends on your budget IMO (no matter what, use a 2824-2 case and not a 2836-2 because 1016 doesn't need date complication and 2836-2 cases have the wrong crown/stem/tube height) - JMB case (based on rep 16200 case that is reshaped and has 2824-2 movement compatibility - the gen 1016 has a peculiar shape that is quite different to gen 1600 / 16000 / 16200 Datejust). Case should come with the appropriate tube for 6mm gen Rolex 600 crown (double check with JMB) - Gen 6mm 600 Rolex crown (the rep crowns are crap - don't cut corners here) - lowbeat Swatch ETA 2840 movement or similar models like ETA 2789 (make sure to check if the crown height is appropriate for a 2824-2 case - double check via ranfft. i.e. 2824-2 stem height is 1.8mm). Alternatively if you are feeling adventurous, you can convert a 2824-2 into lowbeat by swapping the escapement, balance, and pallet fork from a 2846 movement - Yuki dial and hands - Clarks T22 - spring bar / strap / bracelet / etc is up to you and depends on what bracelet you pair it up with (i.e. raffles 78360 bracelet uses 1.8mm spring bars)

ignore it the tone of these letters have softened down these lawyer letters require no legal obligation to respond don't respond them - if not you will fuel the fire and give them legal confirmation against you in the future 'you MAY provide us with written confirmation of your compliance...' (i.e. may = expressing possibility) not 'must' or any other similar words that requires legal obligation

this is likely because your movement tabs aren't securing your movement tightly and properly. i assume this is for a franken datejust build? If so, then modifying the correct movement tab is the only way to go (i.e. take a longer tab and cut it to the right length and/or bend the tab so that the tab can secure the movement on both ends). I had this problem too when i built my first datejust franken using a 2836-2 case and 2836-2 movement

\ i believe it can fit into a Noob V3 116710 case because I have seen others franken-ing their 116710 like that with a Yuki-modified 3185 no idea if it can fit into the latest Noob CHS 116710 or 216570

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it I hope no one else out there gets scammed when buying a genuine 62510h because the rep jubilee links look very similar to gen. I have seen franken 62510h with gen clasp and rep jubilee links.

Hellooo everyone First post here for sharing I am a regular on RWI, I will share my threads over here from there Introduction Today, I will be comparing a very common rep jubilee bracelet with a gen one. The rep jubilee bracelet is commonly seen on classic reps like Franken Datejust and Cartel GMT Master 1675. Sorry for the poor photo quality... my home lighting is crap for photo-takingWhat I will be comparing - Rep Jubilee bracelet (with generic rep '455' end links) = design appears to be based on the 62510h bracelet. Sourced from riyi002 - Gen Jubilee bracelet (with gen 555b end links) = Rolex 62510h bracelet (O serial = 1990, very new condition with tight links) - Both bracelets have solid links (and they are not the folded jubilee type of bracelet - i.e. 6251h) For all of the pictures... - G = genuine - R = replica Visual comparison At first glance, the genuine bracelet is much shinier and whiter looking than the replica one (i.e. better polished). The coronet on the genuine bracelet's clasp is much more detailed - you can see how the coronet is really 3D-looking. By comparison, the replica bracelet's clasp coronet is very flat and lacks detail. The photos doesn't show how much shinier and better-polished the gen bracelet is because of poor lighting, but I can guarantee that the gen bracelet is better in these aspects. When the clasps are opened, notice how there is much more stamping detail done on the genuine bracelet's clasp coronet (the arrows)When the clasp is closed, here are some visual differences: 1. The underside of the genuine bracelet's jubilee links is completely flat and very smooth (i.e. no jagged feeling - very comfortable when worn). The replica bracelet on the other hand has uneven underside jubilee links and the edges are sharp. 2. The genuine bracelet is stamped as '62510 H' whereas the replica bracelet reuses mass-manufactured clasp parts - so it uses a stamped '93250' part (which is incorrect). However, this can vary as I have seen replica jubilee bracelet that is correctly stamped as 62510H. 3. The replica bracelet's clasp is wider than the genuine one by 1-2mm approximately. You can also see from the arrows that the genuine bracelet is better polished (shinier and whiter looking) than the replica bracelet's duller finish. However, the most obvious flaw of the replica bracelet is there are only 6 micro-adjustable holes on the clasp - a lot of replica 20mm Rolex clasp (of this design) have this problem. By comparison, the genuine clasp has 7 micro-adjustable holes. It is also worth mentioning that the genuine bracelet's jubilee link screws sits flush and it is well polished, whereas the replica bracelet's jubilee link screws can sit uneven in its slot - some are flush and some aren't. End links: - A lot of replica end links are stamped as '455b' regardless if it is for two-tone/stainless steel and oyster/jubilee - this can be wrong/inaccurate - Genuine end links are stamped appropriately to their configuration/model (e.g. 502T end links are for non-lug hole Rolex, etc etc). My particular genuine end link is 555B and it is designed for the early 16200 Datejust series with lug holes - When genuine and replica end links are installed into a Rolex, they both look the same externally The genuine end link has longer tube for guiding the spring bar and it is well polished/finished on the inside. The replica end link has shorter tubes for guiding the spring bar and it is unfinished on the inside (very rough-looking)The feeling of the bracelets when worn - Gen bracelet feels very comfortable as the jubilee links are polished without jagged edges. Also, the links are tighter so the bracelet feels like it naturally wraps around the wearer's hand. But bear in mind that my genuine jubilee bracelet's condition is extremely new - a lot of second jubilee bracelets out there are quite worn and stretched badly. - Rep bracelet feels a bit rough when worn because of the jagged edges on the jubilee link (as the finishing isn't as good as the genuine bracelet, but it is still comfortable). The replica bracelet makes a lot more rattling noise than the genuine bracelet because the links are not as tight.