llsteve80

looks like it was the 4813 originally, gold in color, and now it is the 2813, silver in color. That would explain the difference in BPH

Wow great watch! And I must say, you have come a long way in your picture taking. Good job on both.

In case your looking: http://cgi.ebay.com/RARE-70s-TUDOR-SUBMARI...1QQcmdZViewItem item 270226654497 Guy says he bought them as original. They look aged not new.

Endlinks can be changed. I assume you have the solid end pieces. I just don't know where to get the correct ones that will fit that bracelet. Sometimes the curve is slightly different as well as the placement of the springbar. I would buy a few different ones on ebay and see which fit best. Then you can take it to a repair shop, they can switch the pieces out.

Maciek, It takes quite alot to get me going emotionally, and reading this did it. I've lost 2 dogs in my life, and it is definately not easy. Dogs cannot be replaced, but they can be remembered, and I hope you enjoy those memories. Here is my beloved golden retriever, Digger, 2yrs old now

Copied and pasted from an old thread: I got into reps back in sophmore year (1995). I didn't even have internet back then. My friends and I would take our $6.00/hr paychecks and head off to swap-o-rama to buy jewelery and other knick knacks that we really didn't need. It was all a game. Then one day a guy had a fake rolex sub sitting there and I bought it for 30 bucks. I was kind of awed that I was holding a real fake rolex. It struck me as how someone could so blatently copy something and just put it out there without a second thought. Anyway, I liked the watch, and have been a sub fan ever since. At 15, I had never seen a real one, so I couldn't compare it to anything. Then the guy at radio shack saw it and asked to see it so I showed him, and he showed me his real one. (looking back, I wonder, he said it was a gift, who knows.) I saw the engravings on the inside of the clasp, the coronet on the crown, and the smooth side of the band. My links were rolled and you you could see it when viewing from the side. He also showed me the sweeping second hand. That kind of busted my bubble a little bit, but then these european guys showed up at the swap-o, and had automatics with engravings on them. I was like whoa, cool, even the back is engraved.. smile.gif (back just popped off, not screwed in at all) I bought one, and kept going back for more until someone at school asked me where I was getting all these watches. I didn't tell him, but I did tell him I'd get him one for 50 bucks (I was paying 25), and next thing I knew I had a locker full of them and was selling about 2-3 a week. The best was the guy that asked me if I could get a two tone sieko and when I did, he held it like it was some sacred object. I'll never forget (or understand) the look on his face when he saw it. I eventually got out of it, since I got tired of people commenting about a 18-19 year old could never have a rolex, and unhappily went about with (don't shoot!) fossils, citizen, relic, etc., until the itch came back again. I let my self get ripped off by the guy on craigslist before I found this place, and have learned alot and have been living happily ever since. I even figured out that just buying isn't enough for me, I have to mod a little, I built 2 frankens, am building another, and have modded my beginmariner. Went ahead and upgraded to a MBK Sub, and right now deciding between MB sport chrono and some kind of TT sub with solid gold.

Ha thats what he said when I asked him the same question.

the one thing that bugs me the most about these dials is the numbers on the subdials not going up the edge like on the gen. They are only on the recessed part. To me, thats the quickest and easiest way to spot a rep dial. I can see it from further away. Because of this, I stick with the exotic, or newman dials, although these aren't perfect either.

what is this thing? Looks like a venus 75 copy like on the dealer's manual chrono watches, but they don't say anything about fixed 6:00 needle. Anyone had any of their watches? some look cool. Good beaters. I remember someone using one for parts or practice too.

I thought that was just a photoshop? It's really not there? Not judging either if it isn't there. I just came to a different conclusion seeing the pic than stilty did.

I got a noob or begin mariner yesterday, and it has the miyota copy in it, not the DG 2813. The pictures on the site show the Miyota, so I missed it. I noticed that the second hand is a little jerky compared to the DG, which is supposedly 28.8k, I don't know about that, the 2813 is supposed to be 21.6. I guess the dealers dont advertise it with 28.8 anymore though either. Whatever is in this noob sucks compared to whatever the old movement was. Two of them sitting side by side and I see a huge difference. I can actually count the number of "ticks" per second, 4, and the DG I can't tell if I'm seeing 6 or 8. Way smoother. The heck with the white lie about beats per hour, I want the old movement back! BTW, the movement is silver in color and has NN stamped under the balance wheel.

Anyone have this yet, or seen it in person? http://www.pc-80108.com/00mb01011-sport-ch...bph-p-3871.html I tried the gen on this weekend and loved it. The new blue one was awesome. I don't see any of the dealers with the blue version yet. The gen felt really solid and heavy, plus I like the way it is set up, just a great looking watch. Unique. Wondering how the rep stacks up? So, if nobody has bought one yet perhaps some of you eagle eyed members can point out some flaws from the pics? I see that the tails on the 5's seem to be a little too short, and the pearl seems a tad too big. Everything else looks good to me. I don't see anything that stands out. TIA

I actually better relax. I may have to slow down, going to have to pay for college at the end of the summer. New apt, funrnishings, tuition, books, maybe no room for frankens. Probably should stick with 100% rep for now. Those explorer 1's are great IMO, the expII doesn't do anything for me at all. They're like submarinyachtmasterners or something. It's good to know that this project is relatively easy to pull off, worst case buy the parts slowly, maybe even convert something. If I get restless enough I can start one.

Ha, great idea, I love it! I thought of this everytime I put together a frankenjust. No FREAKIN datewheel problems! I love it. What height canon pinion and 4th wheel did you use? Stock? If so I may have to try to pull this one off too. Is the case the same as the explorer case or something? You may be starting a new trend here.

USMC, my problem was that I tried to start balls out right away. I ran just water for a week, and then popped everything in. I had to keep a close eye on it for a while. My Dad and his boss sucessfully did basically the same thing with about 60,000 gallons past July, so it's not impossible. They just know what they're doing. Thats one crazy system by the way. Each row of about 100(?) tanks has it's own computer and UV sterilizers. Under the tanks are vats filled with bio-balls and the computer controls temperature, salt levels, ph, who knows what else. There are 3 5,000 gallon plastic water towers that the water gets mixed in, and the system drains new water from them as needed. Each row of tanks is on it's own seperate filtration system, and closed off entirely from the rest to avoid losing everything if something goes terribly wrong in just one row. I don't know exactly how much water gets changed a day, but when fish are picked/packed, they have to be in water, obviously, and that comes directly out of the tanks. Each salwater fish is placed in it's own bag.

Funny, people at work tell me that talking to me can be like talking to a wall. Then I tell them to get the F*&# away from me. I don't get paid to listen. Get a shrink. I assure you though, that Ken did not talk to me after that post.

Been trying to get on there for an hour now. It was up last night and I bought another noobmariner, and was about to buy one more watch today. Hope everything is ok

I thought the date progression on the eta and rolex were opposite?

if you use firefox, get the google toolbar. when you right click, the bottom of the menu has a page info option. Roll over that with the curser, and another menu pops out to the side, with the option saying "translate page into english" Doesn't work on all pages, but I just tried it on this one, and it worked. Its not always 100%, but way better than guessing.

Awesome stilty. What are the advantages to the 2892 in the 162xx case as opposed to the 2824? I have my friends franken back, ready to install the new MOP diamond dial for him. I am also never again making a watch for anyone. Unlike you, I get hassled, and I'm already nervous about it because it's not mine. Anyway, I'm planning my next franken, modeled after this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...A:IT&ih=008 Can't do rose gold, but the basic idea will be the same. I have this sudden obsession with TT watches, and I am against plated anything so I want to go all out and go with solid. I found this band: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...A:IT&ih=021 And I'll get the new style clasp from probably josh. Now you have me wondering if I should use a 2892 on this project.

I was at some crappy jewelery store yesterday and they had a 14060 on consignment there. I was wearing my MBW, so I compared the cases. The gen had a way shallower rehaut on it, closer to the noobmariner actually. Is the deep rehaut thing a rumor/myth/whatever like the 2.5x magnification? Or is maybe the 14060 shallower than the date versions? Oh, and BTW, they wanted 4600 for it and it's 5 years old. I bet they have it for a while.

Ok, I got it. Here are some pics. The bezel is damaged and the dial cracked. You can see it all in the pics. Movement runs, everything works. I'm thinking about just parting it out. The movement is a ML37, same as the mens watches by ML, it is really just a modified 2824-2. That alone might be worth more than I paid though, since it is triple date and unlikely to be seen on the bay for a while. If it was mens, I'd fix it but eh. I have always wanted a triple date moonphase, maybe I can make something cool out of this? Hmmm. Maybe I can find an empty case and dial that could fit this, probably not ML though. Any more ideas? With all the damage I don't think it would be worth it to fix, new dial, new bezel ( unless a jewelery repair place could do something ) New hands, new sapphire crystal, new buckle. Then labor? Ya, I can see the 2k at the service center making sense now.

I agree with gavidoc 100%. Thanks man...you saved me a lot of typing I love when buyers demand what to declare on customs docs AFTER paying, and still expect full insurance. I don't wan't customers like that, so I simply say OK, and then declare FULL value. I am not going to be caught dead falsifying documents for someone I've never met. I always send things for "repair and return" Nobody in customs anywhere has ever noticed that nothing was in need of repair. UPS, FEDEX, etc, use customs brokers in most countries. This can be good or bad, but at least if it is iffy about thievery from the underpaid government workers, it is your best bet. Faster to clear too. Supposedly the brokers are tougher on counterfeit items, so be careful there. International shipping insured with USPS is a JOKE. My rule of thumb, if it's worth more than 200 USD, go UPS.

Just noticed, that coronet on the crown looks pretty darn good compared to other rep triplocks. BIG. Little too big, but way better than the tiny ones on most.

So wait, you were supposed to get a manual, but got a rotor? Makes the case back too big. I like that watch either way, I never looked twice at daytonas until I saw the vintage models. If I get another one it's going to be the DW 7750 with white dial and SS bezel. I just bought a 19mm 7350 rolled link bracelet from luenfat, I'll post up when I get it and install it. Is yours 19mm or 20mm BTW? Should be 19mm with rolled links. I don't see any coming in with rolled links, and a bunch have 20mm lugs.