Flav-
That is very interesting. Especially in light of how the crown on the I series appears to line up at more than 50% of the depth of the hole on the CG. I was aware that all the crowns were 1.9 in the A-G series. And in truth some rep crowns look very good. What I concluded a while ago was that it is not the crown that makes the biggest difference (assuming it is not a really thin one). It is the crown guard. Most rep CG's are either out of proper proportion or more importantly have the wrong size hole. When you put a Palp 2.1 into a Jimmy CG the crown looks great but way too big relative to the CG. When you put it into some of the CG's with larger holes it looks very close to gen. The other big contributant to the different aesthetic is the much larger recess under the lip. Although the crowns have generally always been 1.9 the shaping of the bevel on the crown has evolved. a Pre-A - B series crown tends to have a much "deeper" bevel than C-G. I have never owned a gen later than a G but it looks like the bevel has been changed again.
- Kruz
It seems like RWI is increasingly looking like RWG 1 (i.e. Apocalyse Now). I do hope it contniues to exist as I have picked up some of my best pre-owned watches there. Also dealers actually occasionally update their offerings there as well.
You have made it as good as you can. Looks great. I did the same thing and I really like it. Change of pace from the standard PAM. Crown looks really good here. The CG is out of whack but the Palp crown helps throw it back into proportion. With the Swiss movement investment buy the new upgraded 199 or Arktos and swap out the datewheel and crystal. I haven't had the nerve to do it but it would be kick-_ss.
Yes. Now it is up to $1225.00. The obvious give away to PAM fans is he is selling an A series (polished bezel with no bezel engraving) and the hour markers have metal rings around them. Of course date font is off, crown sits off the case too far, cg, etc. Here is a legit one being offered for sale at the same time:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Panerai-Submersible-Wa...1QQcmdZViewItem
On the polishing issue - because the Breitling has a "polished" finish it takes the polishing well. On the IWC ti's tread lightly but a light polishing does make it truer to gen. Of course we are all ignoring the fact that all ti will darken over time anyhow.
It is a nice watch. I saw the newest version at an AD as well a couple of days ago and that was what inspired me to post the pics. The funny thing is I prefer the old bracelet to the new one on the gen - more manly.
Wear whatever you want. It is funny because TTK is right. There is something ridiculous about someone wearing a fake watch worrying about owning a watch but not the car. I am still trying to get over it though. Ferrari is such an outrageous status brand. My $6,000 motorcycle will still leave that $600,000 Enzo in the dust though (except in the hands of Michael Schumacher).
This was the first rep that got me excited about Breitling - the 2005 Josh Chrono Avenger. This one has gen dial, Ziggy relume and Swiss movement. It was only a couple of months after I received it that I figured that it needed a polishing to match up the ti to the gen.
No guts, no glory. I always prefer bulletproof.
But seriously, I got a go with the old school Pre-A. The black leather is torn apart but glove soft and the buckle, well you know what I am talking about.
I am debating this right now. I like the styling on the Ferrari but the whole "my parents went to Florida and all I got was a t-shirt" does bother me. And in the case of Ferrari and Bentley where I live you should see some of the people wearing other paraphernalia with those brand names written on it. Just not my style. Of course, that the reps are so supposed to be that good is just killing me.
It is like most other chronos. Top pusher (above the crown) stops and starts the chrono function. Bottom pusher resets the the minute and hour chrono sub-dials and center 60 second counter. On the Ferrari it has screw down pushers so in order to push the chrono pushers you have to unscrew the surrounding bolt so that the bolt rises to the top of the pusher (away from the case). This gives the pusher the clearance to press the button down. When not using the chrono feature you can screw down the same bolts and the pushers will be locked in place.