bertieng

100% no. Phong case doesn't mean will give you a 100% fit without any mods either.

Expensive, and the quality is much less than expected from the asking price. Sometimes you even have to do grinding for the movement to fit in. If you are good at metal works, then it is OK, otherwise you won't be much enlightened after spending soem big money. It's a pity that only J&W and NDT cases will take up gen. mobements, this leaves you not to have many choices on the market. Good luck.

This is a 16520 or 116520 case? By looking at the positions of the pushers and the bezel engravings, it is more like the 116520, but then the caseback says 16520. Any Daytona experts can comment?

Hi Freddy, You got a nice DRSD dial there. It is gen. of aftermarket? I have been trying very hard to get a good DRSD/SR1680 dial for my MBW, but still in vain. NDT's dials for these two are no good. Can help to tell me a good source? Of course the best is the gen. dials, but they are simply totally out of reach at the asking market prices. Thanks in advance.

Items in VFR are all expensive/overpriced. You will have a better chance on a good deal in the bay.

Hi P, Thanks for your comments. Wow, it is surely painful to chop the feet off. This really will heavily reduce the resell value of the dial in future in casae you decided to do so. But still it looks superb with the gen. dial. No rep. dials come to any close to the look and finish. Wear it well, mate.

Hi polexpete, Beautiful gen. LV dial you have there. Trust it has an ETA inside. So what did you do with the dial feet? Did you cut them away and just apply dial dots? The size of the gen. dial fits into the rep case OK? Cheers.

The glow is less because it is C1. C3 always has the brightest glow but is not correct for Rolex. Why in the gen. Rolex it glows very bright and for a long period because the whole marker is filled with SL, large amount indeed instead of just applying a layer on the top in the reluming job.

Forget about this one. No way they will go for a new case for other models considering the number of cases they have made already. It will cost them a fortune to start again with a new design. CAD machining is no cheap thing man. Stick with the ROO@12 which is still one of the almost perfect AP rep on teh market so far in terms of accuracy and finish.

Cannot agree more. It has nothing ot do with your watch. No matter it is rep or gen.

Go for the PP 3919. All time classic. Simple and elegant. But pity do not see a good rep since EL's version is gone.

Love to get my B&R lumed. There is no doubt The Zigmeister's artistic lume work is second to none, no matter it is amateur or professional. Some of the great lumes done by The Zigmeister on my PAM's some days back is still glowing on my wrist like a torch. Pity that he refused to accept doing for me anymore Still I will keep those beautiful lumed PAM's as a very important part of my collection that I will never sell.

Read an article there is simply no differenc between 316 and 904 in terms of brightness/shinniness/hardness etc. Rather interesting enough 904 is proned to casue higher allergic reaction to the skin.

Do you know what work has been on the hands? My undertanding is that the gen. hands don't fit on the Zenith movement pinions. Any issue on the tube of the big second hand being too short for attaching to the chronograph wheel pinion? It would be great if you can share with us this successful story. Cheers.

What source is this 1680? True construction should be using a tension spring i/o a wire. anyhow, in your picture the clip looks OK, but rather it i shard to see if the groove where the wire will log in is in good condition. Perhaps you can try to put some lubricant into the groove and see if it will improve.

Either the min. hand has fallen off the canon pinion, then it is an easy fix. Or the hole on the min. hand is too big, then some work is needed to squeeze down the size, or best is to change for a new hand.

You need patience, symbebekos. To find a true 1575 GMT movement is not easy. Rolex never stamped 1575 on the movement. All 1575 GMT have the 1570 stamping. So you need to make sure the seller really knows what he is selling if he claims 1570 movement as used in the 1655.

The MBK vintages can take up gen. parts OK, but for the more modern models with sapphire I doubt it. But then will not suggest you to buy parts from this seller, he simply sucks. This has been widely discussed here.

Interesting you will put a rep band onto a gen head. I think the lug width will not be an issue since they are both 20mm. What you have to be careful is to check the alignment of the lugholes with the SEL springbars openings on the Noob bracelet is matching or not. Have fun.

Very interesting watch. Where did you get it? Would like to get one for fun if it is not totally crazily expensive.

JoJo, the dial looks very good indeed. Can you share what is the origin?

Hard to believe if Rolex ia asking for this price. It is true that ceramic is good for scratch proof, but I must say physically it is brittle by nature. The elasticity coeffiecent of ceramic is pretty low actually.

There is apparently no absolute answer to this, sorry to say. In the gen. Sub the crystal is C2 (taller version). But be careful here, basically all aftermaket C2 gaskets have a different height despite they all declared C2. I have measured Clarks, Cousins etc...., they are all different in height. you have to relaize the height of the crystal above the insert is determined by the height of the gasket, so this is the crucial factor. Thickness of the bezel ring is another factor. It is known that the Euromariner has the same bezel assemably contruction but not exactly 1:1 in size. So my guess is that you will never achieve the same crystal height above the insert as the gen. unless you swap out the whole assemably with gen. parts - retention ring, C2 gasket, bezel and insert. Then you will be happy.

Thanks for the info. Guess the case is from J&W, Phong?