bertieng

Yes, it is available. But really wonder if it is true Ti. And do they reallly rep the true carbon fibre bezel? This is something that not so easy and the cost is high.

This definitely looks promising. How is the lume quality? By judging from the picture I will place my bet on this than the PT's final version.

By looking at the PT pictures, the hour markers look very different in separate photos. Some showed a thicker metal rim while one pic shows very thin rims - close to the spec of gen. Would like to see the actual version when Star69 receive his.

Date changes between 6pm and 8pm? Looks something wrong with the date change setting. Why relume? Is it supposed to have the blue lume already in V5 from ET. Any picture shots would be appreciated.

The GMT IIc 116710LN really set the milestone for the new era for Rolex. New CG shape, new case style, new brushed pattern at the lugs, new GMT movement, 1st Rolex model to use the ceramic bezel......... the list is endless. In terms of elegance and functionality, none of the post GMT IIc models come close. Yeah, you will say the DSSD is superb in terms of the diving depth, but who will go that deep unless you want to get yourself squashed by the high pressure? Or if you want to have a strong left arm wearing a big chuck of metal on your wrist. Milguass has the anti-magnetic feature, and yet how many of us are exposing to the super strong magnetic field - unless you want to get your genes go crazy. But with the GMT, it is almost useful for each of us in the daily life.

It is very well known that removal of the Noob bezel is almost impossible unless it want to ruin it. Sorry to say. Why do you want to remove it? I presume changing the insert?

The newly assembled N serial Daytona on 78360/503

Why not go to BK for the fully modded YM from WM9?

What should be the correct size drill bit to use to make the countersink on the tube hole to fit the 7030 tube? Been doing the search but can't find the definite answer. Experts please help to advise. Thanks.

The only option is ask for a replacement.

Should the tropic be T116 or T127 to be used in 9411?

Wow, how did you crack such a thick crystal into this shape? It must has been a supre hard hit. I think your only chance is to get a replacement from the dealer.

The Steve McQueen Day

Jack at IWW is also does very professional lumes. Kent is good too but it takes months for a lume to be done.

Thanks for all the details, you are truly the vintage experts. It has always been confusing with the early Subs since there were so many variations - dial, hands, tropics, crown/tube...... If the 6536 takes the 600 crown, then I think to bulid a franken can nonly use the upgraded 6020 tube as the original 6000 tube in NOS condition is almost impossible to find, or you ahev to pay a crazy price a used tube that you will never know if the threads are still in good shapes. I only have the T16, so looks like it is only good for the 6536/1, but I think te aftermarket is only offering the 6536 case

Apart from the movement used in them is different, shall there be any other differences eg. case dimension, crown/tube, tropic, dial etc.? What is the correct crown/tube used for the 6536? I saw some with the brevet cross and some with the normal underline. The vintage experts please chim in. Thanks.

Funny enough, all the members supporting this project and claims the charges is super worthy are quite new Anyhow $1500 is totally out for me.

Nice one. Where do you get the gen. strap?

It is 1575. But they all marked 1570 as it is a modified 1570. More than just adding the 24Hr hour wheel, more parts are needs to take care of the date changing mechanism as well.

This is not an easy piece to rep as compare to the standard CF. It is now having the chrono button intergrated into the case, cyclops under the sapphire, see thro' case back with modded rotor pattern.....

If you really have that money burning in your pocket, then go for it. It i snot onlt teh case and movement here, you also have think about the ocst of the gen. dial, hand set, crown etc. to complete the project. If you are going for the Red 1680, then I don't know how much more $$$ you needed for the gen. dial. As freddy said, if you are only thinking of teh std 1680, why not go for the gen. which doesn't really cost you a lot more and yet you can still keep the value of the watch. For the RED's, stay with the MBW's + ETA, they more than good enough with the proper modding and gen. parts installed. Enjpy.

Sorry to hear, but once a dent is made there is no way to remove it particularly on the sharp edges. Never can be back to perfect.

You shouldn't do that, Angus. Once touched the gen. and you will not go back to reps. (kidding)

Thanks again freddy. Now all understood. Must start saving for this project.

Hi Freddy, Thanks again for your comments always on my queries. But what does this mean "The dial is press-fit onto the pillar plate"? Is the the dial I showed a press-fit dial? Then how to make correct orientation of the dial on the movt for installing the hands? So now I understand the case screws will lock into the groove of the copper container.