bertieng

Thanks for all the inouts, folks. I asked for the bezel removal is wondering if Oxiclean will attack/darken polished surface. BTW, Ubi, what tools do you used to get the bezel out without leaving any marks on the parts? Thanks.

Thanks a lot. Now it is more cleared. Have been thinking always it needs to take the bezel off like in the Rollies. SOunds the PAM is much easier to handle in the sapphire removal. Presume the sealing gasket will also come off, right?

Want to remove the sapphire on my 111 for coating. Wonder how to do it. Is it necessary to remove the bezel as well? Seems pretty hard to pop off the bezel without making marks on it and on the case since it sits so tight on the watch unlike the Rollies. Can the PAM experts chim in for some advice? Thanks.

Interesting. Will Oxyclean attacks polished surfaces and the AR on sapphire?

Personally I always found this outrages. Paying big money for these reps and still have to pay extra for servicing. I can't complaint if the rep cost USD100 but for those asking for 500-600 bucks shouldn't we desrver to have a properly working product?

Any idea how accurate is the FER030? Doesn't seem to see too much discussion on it. Should there be many major flaws which stops it from reaching the top league?

Oh, I missed the super 111H. Are you going to share with us your fabulous Top Gun Rattrapante? Cheers.

"No more reps!"?? So are you going to dump all your rep collection? Interetsed in some of your pieces. Cheers.

That also puzzled me when looking at the picture. I will take it immediately if the rep. comes up with the dial at this quality.

Building the almost correct Daytona is very hard, even when you have all the parts ready. Getting the gen. case is basically almost zero chances, this really depends on your luck. You can get a good copy case but the cost is not small, and it only accepts gen. parts. Having the A7750 built to the spec of EL400 or Rolex 4130, you can forget it. These movement are simply so special and complicated to copy. To get both the subdial spacing and thickness correct is far beyond the investment that the rep maker will be willing make. In this sense, I dare to say a correctly made or even close to gen. Daytona rep. will not be seen on the market in the foreseeable future. Trust me, be ready to go crazy, be ready to spend months and $$$$ to get the parts, be ready to spend hours to get the assembly correct, be ready to ruin numbers of gen. parts particularly the hand set(then spend another round of parts searching), if you decide to build the franken. If someone who is willing to sell their franken at 5-6K, and if you really is a die hard fan for the perfect Daytona, my advice is grab it because with the amount of energy, time, $$$$, patience all added up together is well above this value.

No need to look further. The current ultimate Milgauss has the top notch quality in terms of the case and bracelet finishes. No AR at all as per the gen. spec. Get the ETA version for a long lasting reliability. The only thing is that you might want to relume the hour markers to improve the lume and appearance. FYI, the gen. has excellent long lasting lume time, and they glow like a torch.

The hour markers are completely wrong. The metal rim is too thick and the lume is lumpy not flat. As per today ET still has the best dial in this respect I will say.

Sorry to hear this. Servicing the APROO sec@12 won't be an easy task for an average watchsmith considering all the mods done on the A7750. Maybe you can try The Zigmeister in Canada.

We will never get the perfect dial. Improve the date window but with the serious flaw of the hour markers. And can't really see the dial is in creamy colour as describe by King. If Josh's picture is real, then it is still a better bet despite the date window is further on the right. Anyone actually got either of the Safari in hand to comment?

Does it mean a V6 is coming up?

King highlighted in the description that the dial is upgraded to off white/creamy colour. Has anyone actually ordered and received one yet? Please share. Thanks.

If the top plate mod can become mass produced, it really makes the RB II a wonderful piece to collect despite the date window issue is still there.

Most likely Rolex will standardize their models in line with the latest cosmetic/design/technology. The ceramic Sub should be expected to have the polished mid link bracelet with the glide lock clasp as in the DSSD. Just my guess.

This guy has been kept selling these "so call" vintage dots in the bay. Trust he has already made a good fortune from these sales.

Confused here. What is the actual size of the E? Which version is correct to gen.?

No, a gen Sub dial won't fit the ETA. Dial feet are located differently and the size depends on which case you are using as highlighted by the other members. The best bet is still go for the Noob dial for ETA.

Is it true that the Dagger Swan Neck in the rep 6497(Swiss or Chinese) is just purely a cosmetic which is not functioning at all. In this case the movement cannot be regulated? I am seeing this in the 6497 I recently acquired from the sales forum. Inviting experts' comments. Thanks.

It does looks good. If they can fix the creamy colour on the dial, it must be the best APROO sec@12 available. Not sure how many sec@12 factories are there, Josh do have the upgraded creamy dial for the Safari though. Only if King's supplier can do the same...... they will sell thousands of it.

The watch looks gen. to me. Just take a look at the length of the crown tube.

A very nice piece. CG is still the issue. Put the V CG on and it is perfect.