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Not sure, if anyone here already asked this before. bit is it possible to replace a balance bridge and a hair spring on a VSF 3235 clone movement. the hair spring is not very reliable and the shock absorbing does not work very well on clone movements, sometimes it get out of place and stop the watch. I have to open the watch just to blow air on it so it goes back the correct place. it may not even be cost effective to do this.

Hello, guys. I'm Steve and I'm back. We've already done two comparisons of the Submariner series, 126610LV and 116613LB, so let's get back to the classics. As the ace of the Submariner range, the 116610LV needs no introduction to its popularity, so let's get started. Dial front view View of the dial in natural light View of the dial under lighting 116610LV has a famous name in our country, that is “green water ghost” (hulk), so the dial color has naturally become the focus, the gen color is dark green, after repeated observation and comparison of the real objects,VS and KING's color is the closest to GEN, especially KING's black and green gradient effect is the most similar to GEN, Clean is also good, but the radial pattern is a bit stronger. The biggest color difference is ZF factory, too bright. But it is difficult to notice the difference without comparing them side by side. Which factory do you think has the better color? Side view of bezel The VS factory uses the V4 of the clean bezel. The color and brightness of the clean bezel are very good, and there is almost no color difference compared to the GEN, while the bezel of ZF and KING are also actually very good, and there is no difference between the color and the clean bezel. After checking with the factory, ZF factory claims to be using the clean V1 bezel and KING claims to be using the clean V4 bezel as well. Side view of the teeth insert The shape of the KING's teeth is distinctly different from the GEN's, and the brushed finish on the side of the ZF is too obvious, which has led to a more pronounced depth. Side view of the glass VS and KING do not have chamfered mirror edges, and although clean and ZF do, they do not have the same shape as GEN. View of the bezel digital As explained earlier, all four factories use the Clean bezel, and the clean bezel is worthy of being the best submariner green bezel available today, with a platinum filling that is very close to the GEN color and a very regular and fine filling. This is why all the major factories have adopted the clean fitting, which shows that it has been fully accepted by the market, including the factories. Pearl View There are slight differences between the factories and GEN colors, VS and KING are slightly whitish, while CLEAN is a little darker, ZF is too yellow and the edges are raised too high. Markers side view In addition to the ZF factory，other three factories have done chamfering, especially the ZF dot scale is obviously different with the GEN , you can see the side has a prominent section. Luminous Filled View The luminescent filling of the hands and indexes, which have a certain granularity, are not so different from each other in this respect, it is hard to say which one is better or not, as long as they are not smoothly finished. Oil font View The control of the oil font in all four factories is very good, but if you zoom in on the picture, the ZF is not good enough in some places. Hands View Clean center sleeve is very well made, very close to the GEN in cross-sectional shape and height, the VS and KING are different in shape but still very well made, the ZF has obvious burn marks. Rehaut side view The engraving of the rehaut varies from factory to factory, In comparison, Clean looks clearer overall. Calendar window side view The edges of the window are chamfered by VS, clean and ZF, but not as much as by GEN, and not by KIGN. Crown side view There are no obvious differences in the position of the crown, but a friend recently asked me about the crown logo not facing upwards when the crown is tightened, so here's an explanation: For comparison purposes, all the watches were photographed with the crown unscrewed, and the crown orientation was random when tightened, as is the case with the genuine one. Case side view Caseblack view In comparison, the edges of the teeth on the ZF base are not very well finished and are not very flat in places. The genuine product seems a bit dirty due to its age. SEL side view The position of the endlink is slightly different between the factories, but I think VS is closer to it than GEN. Bracelet details view The engraving on the inside of the clasp varies from factory to factory, so you can compare for yourself. There is definitely a clear difference between the macro photos and the GEN, but to the naked eye it is not really possible to tell who is better. Movement view All three factories use the VS3135 movement, except for ZF, which uses the VR3135 movement. Clean and KING movements do not have movement code numbers engraved on the mainplate, while VS and ZF do have the movement code engraved, but the VS is yellow. Laser Marker and Luminous View The factories laser markers are all similar in shape and the luminous colours are all the same as the GEN. Data comparison chart Note: All watches are measured in a clamped state, and there may be errors due to the slight deviation of the position of the caliper. In addition, GEN intercepts the strap, and the factory has a steel strap protective film that has not been torn off. Well, today's post is here, thank you guys for watching. If there are any mistakes, please correct me. If there is anything else I overlooked, you can put it up, and I will try my best to complete it. Welcome to comment and exchange! I will continue to bring you more detailed comparisons between replica watches and GEN’s. And it is also for you to choose the favorite models conveniently. Illustration: Some photos deviate from the real object due to the light source. For details, please refer to the content. The size of the comparison picture is relatively large, you can download it and enlarge it for comparison. There is no perfect replica, only the one you prefer. Website: https://www.theonewatches.ws WhatsApp: + 86-17081934955 Wechat: The5711

Hello! I have found a 116610 sub replica that looks good to me for very cheap price. It comes broken, without bezel. I need help with finding bezel parts that will be best suited for it. I have already seen hack with springs and metal balls for spring clickers but don't know what to buy to assemble the bezel. Please write your opinion🙂 here are pictures from seller I'm waiting a delivery so wanted to start buying parts before it arrives.

Thinking about buying this watch. Seller is saying v7, just want to make sure. Can you tell if it’s a V7? Also, any flaws you guys see? https://m.imgur.com/a/bALBIpd

No matter how you look at it the bezel will never look right.... #genbezelneeded #$2500 Still a fantastic watch. and I am not a Jets fan......

Hi guys, Thanks to Ryan, I have the opportunity today to give you a pictorial comparaison of three famous bracelets. We hear a lot about those, the best combo being "NOOB CLASP + LF BAND" for great franked 116710 projets, which Im deep into it. I Then bought - Noob 78200 - LF 78200 - LF YachtMaster 78200, known as one of the best. I took some pictures, make some trys, I went for the classic combo Noob clasp + LF Band, its the best fit for my Noob V2 116710 Case. Engravings are not quite good but 78200 correct, coronet is superb, SEL fitment is almost very very good, quality of every links has been checked, noob clasp working perfectly, bracelet has been oiled.. Here are the pictures - NOOB on the LEFT and TOP - LF at the middle - YachtMaster LF at the right, and bottom. Please share your thoughts ! Cheers

Dear All, I haven't posted in awhile, but here I am. :-) Hope you're all doing fine, I've been checking forums regularly of course, as always. I would really like to hear your honest opinions my PPP-Mod and my Pearl Replacement. I have got these done, haven't done them myself; therefore I would like a review. ] I've paid €80,- for the re-PPP and the Pearl replacement (incl. donor-pearl); therefore I'm seeking for a review. So, my Rolex has undergone a Pearl replacement due to the old one falling off (And it was untraceable, so this a new "donor-pearl") and it has gotten a PPP-Mod after the previous PPP-Mod I got done came off. I have taken pictures on a white (Rolex) booklet so you can see the difference between the "platinum" and the "white". In my opinion the marker behind the pearl hasn't been done correctly, neither has the "10" mark been done correctly. In my eyes they seem underfilled with Platinum paint. On to the pictures, these are pictures after I received the watch coming back from service. Please decide for yourself and comment. :-) If anybody wants any other picture(s), please let me know and I will add them. :-) Thanks for helping me out.

Dear all, Unfortunately, last week I've lost my pearl of my sub. Yesterday, some of my paint from the PPP-MOD came off. I haven't been very lucky lately, I just wanted to replace my pearl, but now my insert is screwed as it s also losing the platinum paint. Therefore, I am looking to entirely replace the bezel insert. I'm looking to buy one and I'm not very sure where to look, as I'm looking for a good one. (I might even go gen If someone has something nice to offer); please help me out and recommend me something. Really greatly appreciated. I've included a pic for the interested ones. — Avenue

Dear all, Unfortunately, last week I've lost my pearl of my sub. Yesterday, some of my paint from the PPP-MOD came off. I haven't been very lucky lately, I just wanted to replace my pearl, but now my insert is screwed as it s also losing the platinum paint. Therefore, I am looking to entirely replace the bezel insert. I'm looking to buy one and I'm not very sure where to look, as I'm looking for a good one. (I might even go gen If someone has something nice to offer); please help me out and recommend me something. Really greatly appreciated. I've included a pic for the interested ones. — Avenue

I have a very good 116610 ceramic Sub rep which has some Chinese movement. It was not running well so I took it to a guy who buys old watches, rebuilds them and sells them on. He was very impressed with the watch itself, but felt it deserved a better movement. So he suggested a brand new ETA 2836. Is that a good move? I am a newbie and do not know much about watchmaking per se. The build quality of the watch is excellent and certainly up to the quality of the genuine 1675 GMT Master and 16610LV Submariner that I have. Just the movement is not great. Would $300 for the job of replacing the movement be realistic?

I have a ceramic sub from Josh, and the bracelet has developed issues that I am unable to put right; the glide lock clasp isn’t working properly (its slipping) causing the watch to become loose, while I’m wearing it, and the ‘security clasp’ has become detached (I have the part, but I don’t have a spring bar with which to refit it). Can anyone recommend who I can get in touch with on this forum to fix my bracelet, or, does anyone have a functioning bracelet for a 116610 that they can sell me? Looking forward to hearing from you.

I want to buy the best Submariner Ceramic Bezel, found out that the 116610(LN?) is the best one. I've been talking to PureTi.me and TrustyTime, i found these: http://www.ttw888.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_7&products_id=10408 http://pureti.me/product/submariner-116610-ln-black-ceramic-11-noob-best-edition-a2836/ are those both 116610? Andrew states on his website it is 116600 but in description of the watch it says it replicates the 116610 Also, the video for Andrew shows a very dim lume, is that just cause the lume didn't have enough time to charge up or is that how i will see the watch? Anyone have any watches from TrustyTime or PureTime and pics? Please post I need more reference before buying.. PureTime says they dont have it in stock, but Andrew says he has it in stock and ready to ship. Also: TrustyTime has 116600A - 116600B - 116600C . I know he states that they are just changes in the movement from Asian to Swiss and higher prices but are there any differences to the watch itself? Which one should I buy? THANKS ALL AHEAD OF TIME!

I want to buy the best Submariner Ceramic Bezel, found out that the 116610(LN?) is the best one. I've been talking to PureTi.me and TrustyTime, i found these: http://www.ttw888.co...oducts_id=10408 http://pureti.me/pro...-edition-a2836/ are those both 116610? Andrew states on his website it is 116600 but in description of the watch it says it replicates the 116610 Also, the video for Andrew shows a very dim lume, is that just cause the lume didn't have enough time to charge up or is that how i will see the watch? Anyone have any watches from TrustyTime or PureTime and pics? Please post I need more reference before buying.. PureTime says they dont have it in stock, but Andrew says he has it in stock and ready to ship. Also: TrustyTime has 116600A - 116600B - 116600C . I know he states that they are just changes in the movement from Asian to Swiss and higher prices but are there any differences to the watch itself? Which one should I buy? THANKS ALL AHEAD OF TIME!

Here's a dial on the bay that I am thinking about buying http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-dial-for-steel-or-white-gold-Rolex-Submariner-/331034919809?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d13380381 I need to know; would this fit the Noob V2 SubC or BP ? Also, I don't have a watch-maker so who should I go to to put this together with the Sub i end up buying? (i.e i live in NY) How much would it cost to pay someone for replacing a dial with this? THANKS

thebestsub.nl is a site I ran into while looking for purchasing a Submariner 116610. I am a noob but I have been doing some research. The watches here seem to have the correct rehaut engraving, the hour markers seem good with correct size and borders, the cyclops seem to project the date at 2.5 times. The descriptions of the watch on the site are very thorough and have close up pictures as well as a video. The watch runs on a ETA 2836-2 movement with pictures to show that it isnt a clone, which I'm okay with. The bracelet has that hairline finish with no polished links like bad reps have. The guys who run this website also disclose that these watches are from their supplier in Guangzhou, perhaps one of the TDs on this forum? Apologize for any noob remarks but hoping you guys can help out with this. Thank-you

First of all, can I hashtag a forum post? I think I just did Down to business, I am having some s#itty luck with my Reps lately, they just seem to be falling apart. My latest issue is with my 116610 Submariner. The bezel pearl (which wasn't great to begin with ) has simply fallen out and of course I have no clue where it could even be, nor do I plan to look for it. Any idea where I can source a gen, or good rep pearl for this watch? While I like the look of a vintage sub that is a little beat up and missing the pearl, that look doesn't seam to suit this watch just yet and I would quite like to fix it. Any advice would be very much appreciative. I'm also still looking for a replacement DSSD dial, just throwing that out there. I also don't have a picture, I think "the pearl fell out" is pretty self explanatory

Anyone has noticed that Rolex has changed his lettering in the transition to the new ceramic sub? I have a 14060M V serial 2009 that has the new ft lettering as the new ceramic sub. Others 14060M RRR have the old long ft. See the pics Also has spaces between 1000 ft = 300 m also the 1 is not the old I. This new lettering comes from the new ceramic sub 116610 So, apart from being anal about lettering, what do you think? Maybe in 20 years we'll be here looking for the best case to build a vintage 14060 rep with gen dial "hey dude! nice dial! it has wide ft lettering!

Hey guys, just thought i'd share my joy! Looks like the bezel has been fixed to look more gen-like. The indentations used to be round-ish now it's longer. Love it so far! Can't wait to use it tomrorow.